reloading manual / minimum loads

clsmyth · January 5, 2009, 09:37 PM

All,

I just ordered a Lee Loadmaster. It will be my first press. I will only reload .45 ACP at this time. I have studied reloading a bit and have a couple of questions.

1. Everybody says to get a reloading manual. I plan to, but why should I? The important things (I think) are proper powder charge for the bullet being used, correct OAL, correct primer depth (level with the surrounding rim), and correct crimp tightness. And lots of care and concentration. I can look up all the stats online. Do I need a manual?

2a. I plan on reloading for economy (save money) not hot load development. So I will be sticking with the recommended starting powder charge for the forseeable future. Do I need to be worried about my factory recoil spring being too stiff? I have an American Classic II (Firestorm) that I purchased new a couple months ago. It feeds WWB and American Eagle fine.

2b. For that matter, can I use less than the starting powder charge? All I do with this thing is punch paper anyway.

If these are the kinds of questions that are addressed in a good reloading manual then of course that will answer question 1. I just figured they aren't, and this is what word of mouth and the Internet is for.

-cls

Shoney · January 5, 2009, 09:48 PM

I spotted an error in your thinking in #1. A good loading manual will tell you what that is.

#2a not knowing what spring you have, difficult to say.

#2b Reduced loads are subject to SEE (secondary explosive effect) in rifle cartridges but I have never heard of it in pistol cartridges. The problem you will run into sooner or later is sticking a bullet in the barrel. Reduced loads are not a great idea.

LHB1 · January 5, 2009, 09:54 PM

Quote: "I just figured they aren't, and this is what word of mouth and the Internet is for. "

Word of mouth is only as good as the person telling you. Do you know and trust that person's reloading expertise with your gun, hand, eyes, etc? It's even worse on the internet with the anonymous posters. Again, you best know something about the person before trusting their advice. Study the forum posts and pick your advisers CAREFULLY. Not everything you read on the internet is factual! With a loading manual, a company has their name and reputation riding on that data and I think it is far more reliable than word of mouth or internet advice. When I give advice for a reload recipe on the internet which includes the actual powder charge, I accompany the data with following caution:
DO NOT USE THIS OR ANY LOAD FROM THE INTERNET OR A FRIEND UNLESS YOU CAN CONFIRM IT AS SAFE IN AT LEAST ONE COMMERCIALLY PUBLISHED RELOADING MANUAL.

There is other good information to be gleaned from reading introductory chapters in most reloading manuals. I strongly urge every reloader to have at least one and preferably two current commercially published reloading manuals on their workbench. Read them carefully. The guns, hands, etc. you save could be your own.

Sam06 · January 5, 2009, 11:12 PM

Quote:

1. Everybody says to get a reloading manual. I plan to, but why should I? The important things (I think) are proper powder charge for the bullet being used, correct OAL, correct primer depth (level with the surrounding rim), and correct crimp tightness. And lots of care and concentration. I can look up all the stats online. Do I need a manual?

2a. I plan on reloading for economy (save money) not hot load development. So I will be sticking with the recommended starting powder charge for the forseeable future. Do I need to be worried about my factory recoil spring being too stiff? I have an American Classic II (Firestorm) that I purchased new a couple months ago. It feeds WWB and American Eagle fine.

2b. For that matter, can I use less than the starting powder charge? All I do with this thing is punch paper anyway.

Don't take this the wrong way.....You are fooling yourself if you are reloading for economy unless you shoot a lot. Oh you will save some money but your time is worth something so Think about it like this...I am reloading so i can shoot more and practice more and become a better shot

And you will.

Here is what I think and it worth what you paid to read it:

1. You may learn something from a good manual. I approach all internet loads like they were posted by the unibomber. You will learn all about the questions you have and will become more diligent in your loading. This forum is all nice and good but reading it, and seeing it and seeing how everything interacts will teach you a lot. Get PO Ackleys VOL 1&2. Don't follow the load date(its dated) but read the stories and the experiments the guy did. Its good reading. For a load manual the Sierra one is hard to beat. For load data on a particular cartridge get the loadbook for that cartridge.

2a. No the spring will do fine if you try to match the factory loading

2b. No. Get a good reloading book and look up detonation and squib loads.

Get a chronograph it will help you also and is the best 100 bucks you can spend as a reloader.

cchardwick · January 5, 2009, 11:25 PM

Actually you probably don't need a load book. Go to Hodgdon.com and they will have tons of info, or find a powder manuf. website and they will have the data online. However, most reloading manuals have some great info on the basics and what to look for (over pressure signs, cracked cases, squib loads, etc..) but most of this info could be found on the Internet, no problem. A lot of load data in older books is out of date. Powers change and problems arise and many of the new loads are lower powered than older loads, probably due to liability concerns.

Don't use less than the starting load. You won't get your cartridge to seat properly in the chamber and you will get burning powder blown back in your face (with a semi-auto). Not sure what would happen with a bolt or lever action.

rn22723 · January 6, 2009, 01:12 AM

Quote:

1. Everybody says to get a reloading manual. I plan to, but why should I? The important things (I think) are proper powder charge for the bullet being used, correct OAL, correct primer depth (level with the surrounding rim), and correct crimp tightness. And lots of care and concentration. I can look up all the stats online. Do I need a manual?

You need as many manuals as you can get. For handguns I suggest the Lyman 49th, and I like Sierra and Hornday along with Nosler if you are reloading rifle rounds you will need to stick withi the data for the SPECIFIC bullet you are loading. Because with rifle cases the cases can make a huge difference and could case problems if you do not FOLLOW the load data to the letter!

Quote:

2a. I plan on reloading for economy (save money) not hot load development. So I will be sticking with the recommended starting powder charge for the forseeable future. Do I need to be worried about my factory recoil spring being too stiff? I have an American Classic II (Firestorm) that I purchased new a couple months ago. It feeds WWB and American Eagle fine

This is WHY you work up loads that are SAFE, ACCURATE, and RELIABLE in your guns. Your NEED to work up a load, and the amount of money in powder is not significant. You need ammo that works!

Quote:

2b. For that matter, can I use less than the starting powder charge? All I do with this thing is punch paper anyway.

NOPE you HAVE TO WORK UP THE LOAD for SAFETY, FUNCTION, and ACCURACY. Autoloaders need either spring changes or you stick with loads that work.

Quote:

If these are the kinds of questions that are addressed in a good reloading manual then of course that will answer question 1. I just figured they aren't, and this is what word of mouth and the Internet is for.

Your job is to get a copy of The ABC's of Reloading and read it cover to cover. It would have answered ALOT of your questions

January 5, 2009, 09:54 PM	#3
LHB1 Senior Member Join Date: March 25, 2005 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 1,545	Quote: "I just figured they aren't, and this is what word of mouth and the Internet is for. " Word of mouth is only as good as the person telling you. Do you know and trust that person's reloading expertise with your gun, hand, eyes, etc? It's even worse on the internet with the anonymous posters. Again, you best know something about the person before trusting their advice. Study the forum posts and pick your advisers CAREFULLY. Not everything you read on the internet is factual! With a loading manual, a company has their name and reputation riding on that data and I think it is far more reliable than word of mouth or internet advice. When I give advice for a reload recipe on the internet which includes the actual powder charge, I accompany the data with following caution: DO NOT USE THIS OR ANY LOAD FROM THE INTERNET OR A FRIEND UNLESS YOU CAN CONFIRM IT AS SAFE IN AT LEAST ONE COMMERCIALLY PUBLISHED RELOADING MANUAL. There is other good information to be gleaned from reading introductory chapters in most reloading manuals. I strongly urge every reloader to have at least one and preferably two current commercially published reloading manuals on their workbench. Read them carefully. The guns, hands, etc. you save could be your own. __________________ Good shooting and be safe. LB

January 5, 2009, 09:37 PM	#1
clsmyth Junior member Join Date: March 6, 2008 Location: Carrollton TX Posts: 37	reloading manual / minimum loads All, I just ordered a Lee Loadmaster. It will be my first press. I will only reload .45 ACP at this time. I have studied reloading a bit and have a couple of questions. 1. Everybody says to get a reloading manual. I plan to, but why should I? The important things (I think) are proper powder charge for the bullet being used, correct OAL, correct primer depth (level with the surrounding rim), and correct crimp tightness. And lots of care and concentration. I can look up all the stats online. Do I need a manual? 2a. I plan on reloading for economy (save money) not hot load development. So I will be sticking with the recommended starting powder charge for the forseeable future. Do I need to be worried about my factory recoil spring being too stiff? I have an American Classic II (Firestorm) that I purchased new a couple months ago. It feeds WWB and American Eagle fine. 2b. For that matter, can I use less than the starting powder charge? All I do with this thing is punch paper anyway. If these are the kinds of questions that are addressed in a good reloading manual then of course that will answer question 1. I just figured they aren't, and this is what word of mouth and the Internet is for. -cls

January 5, 2009, 09:48 PM	#2
Shoney Senior Member Join Date: February 21, 2002 Location: Transplanted from Montana Posts: 2,311	I spotted an error in your thinking in #1. A good loading manual will tell you what that is. #2a not knowing what spring you have, difficult to say. #2b Reduced loads are subject to SEE (secondary explosive effect) in rifle cartridges but I have never heard of it in pistol cartridges. The problem you will run into sooner or later is sticking a bullet in the barrel. Reduced loads are not a great idea. __________________ I pledge allegiance to the Flag - - -, and to the Republic for which it stands….Our Forefathers were brilliant for giving us a Republic, not a democracy! Do you know the difference??? and WHY?http://www.wallbuilders.com/LIBissue...les.asp?id=111

January 5, 2009, 11:25 PM	#5
cchardwick Senior Member Join Date: September 26, 2008 Location: Colorado Posts: 574	Actually you probably don't need a load book. Go to Hodgdon.com and they will have tons of info, or find a powder manuf. website and they will have the data online. However, most reloading manuals have some great info on the basics and what to look for (over pressure signs, cracked cases, squib loads, etc..) but most of this info could be found on the Internet, no problem. A lot of load data in older books is out of date. Powers change and problems arise and many of the new loads are lower powered than older loads, probably due to liability concerns. Don't use less than the starting load. You won't get your cartridge to seat properly in the chamber and you will get burning powder blown back in your face (with a semi-auto). Not sure what would happen with a bolt or lever action.