Squib removal and tools.

Blindstitch · June 30, 2013, 08:14 PM

I'm not sure where this fits best but I put it here because it's mostly related to underpowered or only primmer propelled ammo.

I was wondering what tools you would use and the procedure used to remove the stuck projectile. And if there was a reason why to move from the action side out or the barrel side in.

I have never had a squib and barely ever used a bought shell but like boyscouts I like to be prepared.

I googled and found that people used wooden dowels or Aluminum and Brass rods. Not a fan of splinters I made a 29 inch brass rod with a slightly rounded end not to damage the rifling and cut groove lines showing the barrel length of my two 30 caliber rifles.

Are they more common in rifles or pistols?

Any info you have should help myself and hopefully others.

Hammerhead · June 30, 2013, 08:26 PM

I used a hardwood dowel to drive a plated wadcutter (DEWC) out of my revolver's bore. Hard to find real hardwood dowels these days. Only one direction you can go with a wheel gun.
I used the same dowel plus a bunch of copper chore boy strands to drive a 9mm 115 FMJ out of a CZ 75 barrel. The strands filled in over and around the FMJ's nose so that I could use wood without splitting the dowel. Drove it back to the breach because it was so close.

Hammerhead · June 30, 2013, 08:49 PM

I should add that both bullets moved much easier than I thought they would.

OTOH I've heard horror stories about getting rifle bullets un-stuck.

MEATSAW · June 30, 2013, 08:52 PM

Never try to use another bullet

Brian Pfleuger · June 30, 2013, 09:06 PM

Even though many folks have successfully used hardwood dowels, it is a much better idea to use a brass rod.

Hardwood dowels can split and wedge themselves between the bullet and the barrel. If you think a stuck bullet is a problem, you ain't seen nothing until it's wedged in place by a piece of wood.

"Squibs" in centerfire rounds are exceedingly rare in factory ammo. They SHOULD be exceedingly rare in your handloads too, or you have a serious QC problem.

Most folks will never have one.

Misssissippi Dave · June 30, 2013, 09:08 PM

I have had a squib in the field. I was shooting .45 acp at the time. An expedient method to remove the bullet was using some stacked .223 brass cases with the mouth of the first case in the bullet and the other cases placed in the same way. A light tap with a hammer (brass preferred) on the last case was enough to remove the bullet in short order. I did remove the barrel from the slide prior to this. One key to remember is to always stop and check the barrel etc. any time you have a round that feels or sound different from what is normal. This often prevents shooting another round through an obstructed barrel.

jmorris · June 30, 2013, 09:13 PM

I try to keep at least one brass 3/8" brass rod and one 3/16 bronze rod in my shooting bag, for the guys that need them at matches.

The best solution is to figure out how to never have one.

jmorris · June 30, 2013, 09:16 PM

I know that Dave was not suggesting using live ammunition but it should be made VERY clear NOT to use live ammo as a tool, EVER.

Sevens · July 1, 2013, 03:55 AM

Quote:

An expedient method to remove the bullet was using some stacked .223 brass cases with the mouth of the first case in the bullet and the other cases placed in the same way. A light tap with a hammer (brass preferred) on the last case was enough to remove the bullet in short order. I did remove the barrel from the slide prior to this.

That's...ingenious. It would never have occurred to me. It's not the best bunch of tools for the job, but it sure sounds like a -VERY- good idea if you find yourself in a place of need and not a lot to work with. Really very cool!

David Bachelder · July 1, 2013, 06:41 AM

I have an aluminum rod in my range bag. It fits 38 or 40. I have thrown a few squib loads.

dahermit · July 1, 2013, 08:01 AM

Quote:

...I try to keep at least one brass 3/8" brass rod and one 3/16 bronze rod...

Any reason why one is Brass and the other is Bronze?

jmorris · July 1, 2013, 09:05 AM

Not really. I have a bunch of 3/8" brass rod sections that is drop from a job but it won't fit down 9mm bores. The bronze is filler rod is brazing rod that I have on hand.

If the guys are 45 folks they get the scrap instead of material that I can still use.

m&p45acp10+1 · July 1, 2013, 02:25 PM

I use a drill rod that has been cut to length. I wrapped it with several layers of shrinking electirical tape, and heated it up to shrink it down. It is a bit smaller than the bore diameter of my .30 cal rifles. I have used it to slug the bores of the rifles, and have used it to push slugs through some hand gun bores as well.

DennRN · July 3, 2013, 06:33 PM

+1 for using a brass cleaning rod.
Be VERY careful not to touch the barrel crown (the dangerous end of the barrel)
Center the rod by wrapping it along the length with some cleaning patches if you have any on hand.
At this point anything hard and reasonably heavy will do the trick to tap the rod and push the bullet through. Just be careful to keep the rod centered and you should be fine. Start out with light taps and work your way up to harder taps slowly.

valleyforge.1777 · July 4, 2013, 11:14 AM

The other thing that I have seen suggested is to squirt some oil into the bore and then freeze the barrel in the freezer. I guess the idea is that the metal of the bullet will contract as it cools down, and the bullet will contract more than the metal of the barrel. So, then it is easier to get the squib out of the barrel.

I have purchased a plastic squib rod, forget where I got it but they are advertised fairly widely in the gun world. I looked at the thing, was a bit skeptical, and then actually started to try to use it one time, and I stopped. It is VERY likely to break, or at least seems to be likely to break. I now keep a set of brass rods from Brownells in my shooting box at all times, along with one of those brass hammers that has the changeable hammer heads (brass, plastic, and aluminum or steel).

cryogenic419 · July 7, 2013, 10:40 AM

I've had 2 squibs, the first was a nightmare as I had no idea what to do. The few things I learned during my trial and error period made getting the second one out a breeze.

I had an older multi piece brass cleaning rod set laying around. Worried about nicking up the barrel I wrapped the whole thing in electrical tape except for the end I'd be hitting with a hammer. I squirted some copper bore solvent down the muzzle and let it sit for about 10 minutes. Muzzle end down on a piece of wood with a bed of electrical tape and a few solid taps of the hammer and all was well.

Forrest68 · July 7, 2013, 11:33 AM

I went threw the same experience recently with 2 squibs as well. I knew in theory what needed done but with no pratical experience , I drove to the local gunsmith not wanting to damage my barrel by doing somethign stupid. Well he looked at it squirted some gun oil down the barrel, waited a few minutes, tap tap tap, pop out came the bullet in tact. Besides no damage and looking fairly easy, he didnt charge me a dime for his time. So the second squib , I took home and did myself with a punch set and gun oil down the barrel , my results where tap,tap,tap,tap,tap, pop, ok I might have been a wee bit more tenative on my first few taps, but the results were the same. Best advise I can give , go slow and easy, no need ro rush. Be safe

June 30, 2013, 08:14 PM	#1
Blindstitch Senior Member Join Date: April 14, 2013 Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin Posts: 2,693	Squib removal and tools. I'm not sure where this fits best but I put it here because it's mostly related to underpowered or only primmer propelled ammo. I was wondering what tools you would use and the procedure used to remove the stuck projectile. And if there was a reason why to move from the action side out or the barrel side in. I have never had a squib and barely ever used a bought shell but like boyscouts I like to be prepared. I googled and found that people used wooden dowels or Aluminum and Brass rods. Not a fan of splinters I made a 29 inch brass rod with a slightly rounded end not to damage the rifling and cut groove lines showing the barrel length of my two 30 caliber rifles. Are they more common in rifles or pistols? Any info you have should help myself and hopefully others.

June 30, 2013, 08:52 PM	#4
MEATSAW Senior Member Join Date: May 1, 2009 Location: Burnet, TX Posts: 727	Never try to use another bullet __________________ Veteran OEF (2002) and OIF1 (2003) - US Army Member of the Burnet Gun Fighters, Inc. and of course the NRA Oregon State University alum -- Go Beavs!

June 30, 2013, 09:06 PM	#5
Brian Pfleuger Moderator Emeritus Join Date: June 25, 2008 Location: Austin, CO Posts: 19,578	Even though many folks have successfully used hardwood dowels, it is a much better idea to use a brass rod. Hardwood dowels can split and wedge themselves between the bullet and the barrel. If you think a stuck bullet is a problem, you ain't seen nothing until it's wedged in place by a piece of wood. "Squibs" in centerfire rounds are exceedingly rare in factory ammo. They SHOULD be exceedingly rare in your handloads too, or you have a serious QC problem. Most folks will never have one. __________________ Nobody plans to screw up their lives... ...they just don't plan not to. -Andy Stanley

July 1, 2013, 06:41 AM	#10
David Bachelder Senior Member Join Date: August 23, 2011 Location: Trinity, Texas Posts: 636	I have an aluminum rod in my range bag. It fits 38 or 40. I have thrown a few squib loads. __________________ David Bachelder Trinity, Texas I load, 9mm Luger, 38 and 40 S&W, 38 Special, 357Magnum, 45ACP, 45 Colt, 223, 300 AAC, 243 and 30-06

July 1, 2013, 02:25 PM	#13
m&p45acp10+1 Senior Member Join Date: May 3, 2009 Location: Central Texas Posts: 3,930	I use a drill rod that has been cut to length. I wrapped it with several layers of shrinking electirical tape, and heated it up to shrink it down. It is a bit smaller than the bore diameter of my .30 cal rifles. I have used it to slug the bores of the rifles, and have used it to push slugs through some hand gun bores as well. __________________ No matter how many times you do it and nothing happens it only takes something going wrong one time to kill you.

June 30, 2013, 08:26 PM	#2
Hammerhead Senior Member Join Date: May 31, 2004 Location: Minnesota Posts: 2,432	I used a hardwood dowel to drive a plated wadcutter (DEWC) out of my revolver's bore. Hard to find real hardwood dowels these days. Only one direction you can go with a wheel gun. I used the same dowel plus a bunch of copper chore boy strands to drive a 9mm 115 FMJ out of a CZ 75 barrel. The strands filled in over and around the FMJ's nose so that I could use wood without splitting the dowel. Drove it back to the breach because it was so close.

June 30, 2013, 08:49 PM	#3
Hammerhead Senior Member Join Date: May 31, 2004 Location: Minnesota Posts: 2,432	I should add that both bullets moved much easier than I thought they would. OTOH I've heard horror stories about getting rifle bullets un-stuck.

June 30, 2013, 09:08 PM	#6
Misssissippi Dave Senior Member Join Date: December 5, 2009 Posts: 1,411	I have had a squib in the field. I was shooting .45 acp at the time. An expedient method to remove the bullet was using some stacked .223 brass cases with the mouth of the first case in the bullet and the other cases placed in the same way. A light tap with a hammer (brass preferred) on the last case was enough to remove the bullet in short order. I did remove the barrel from the slide prior to this. One key to remember is to always stop and check the barrel etc. any time you have a round that feels or sound different from what is normal. This often prevents shooting another round through an obstructed barrel.

June 30, 2013, 09:13 PM	#7
jmorris Senior Member Join Date: November 22, 2006 Posts: 3,077	I try to keep at least one brass 3/8" brass rod and one 3/16 bronze rod in my shooting bag, for the guys that need them at matches. The best solution is to figure out how to never have one.

June 30, 2013, 09:16 PM	#8
jmorris Senior Member Join Date: November 22, 2006 Posts: 3,077	I know that Dave was not suggesting using live ammunition but it should be made VERY clear NOT to use live ammo as a tool, EVER.

July 1, 2013, 09:05 AM	#12
jmorris Senior Member Join Date: November 22, 2006 Posts: 3,077	Not really. I have a bunch of 3/8" brass rod sections that is drop from a job but it won't fit down 9mm bores. The bronze is filler rod is brazing rod that I have on hand. If the guys are 45 folks they get the scrap instead of material that I can still use.

July 3, 2013, 06:33 PM	#14
DennRN Member Join Date: April 10, 2013 Posts: 96	+1 for using a brass cleaning rod. Be VERY careful not to touch the barrel crown (the dangerous end of the barrel) Center the rod by wrapping it along the length with some cleaning patches if you have any on hand. At this point anything hard and reasonably heavy will do the trick to tap the rod and push the bullet through. Just be careful to keep the rod centered and you should be fine. Start out with light taps and work your way up to harder taps slowly.

July 4, 2013, 11:14 AM	#15
valleyforge.1777 Senior Member Join Date: June 2, 2011 Posts: 177	The other thing that I have seen suggested is to squirt some oil into the bore and then freeze the barrel in the freezer. I guess the idea is that the metal of the bullet will contract as it cools down, and the bullet will contract more than the metal of the barrel. So, then it is easier to get the squib out of the barrel. I have purchased a plastic squib rod, forget where I got it but they are advertised fairly widely in the gun world. I looked at the thing, was a bit skeptical, and then actually started to try to use it one time, and I stopped. It is VERY likely to break, or at least seems to be likely to break. I now keep a set of brass rods from Brownells in my shooting box at all times, along with one of those brass hammers that has the changeable hammer heads (brass, plastic, and aluminum or steel).

July 7, 2013, 10:40 AM	#16
cryogenic419 Senior Member Join Date: March 29, 2009 Location: NW Ohio Posts: 569	I've had 2 squibs, the first was a nightmare as I had no idea what to do. The few things I learned during my trial and error period made getting the second one out a breeze. I had an older multi piece brass cleaning rod set laying around. Worried about nicking up the barrel I wrapped the whole thing in electrical tape except for the end I'd be hitting with a hammer. I squirted some copper bore solvent down the muzzle and let it sit for about 10 minutes. Muzzle end down on a piece of wood with a bed of electrical tape and a few solid taps of the hammer and all was well.

July 7, 2013, 11:33 AM	#17
Forrest68 Senior Member Join Date: June 19, 2013 Posts: 135	I went threw the same experience recently with 2 squibs as well. I knew in theory what needed done but with no pratical experience , I drove to the local gunsmith not wanting to damage my barrel by doing somethign stupid. Well he looked at it squirted some gun oil down the barrel, waited a few minutes, tap tap tap, pop out came the bullet in tact. Besides no damage and looking fairly easy, he didnt charge me a dime for his time. So the second squib , I took home and did myself with a punch set and gun oil down the barrel , my results where tap,tap,tap,tap,tap, pop, ok I might have been a wee bit more tenative on my first few taps, but the results were the same. Best advise I can give , go slow and easy, no need ro rush. Be safe