depriming Live ammo

[anand]

Is it safe to remove a live primer using the de priming die on a single stage press?

Or will it be set off?

Anand

[PaulTX]

I don't know if the depriming pin would set off a primer or not. I usually spray a little WD-40 inside the case and that kills the primer - just to be safe.

[Mal H]

Personally, I think it would be safe if you are safe yourself and go slow. It takes a shock to set off a primer. I think you would just crush the priming pellet and the primer will pop out like a used one.

Very important: by being "safe yourself", I mean wearing safety glasses (you always do anyway, right?), and perhaps a face shield and leather gloves. You never know what might happen. Also I would crank the depriming pin down as far as possible and still have it centered. That will assure you of having some air space in the die.

All that being said the safest way to solve your problem is to fire the primer in your gun and then deprime normally. I wouldn't try to make the primer inactive by pouring something on it like WD-40 or oil, etc. That would leave a residue in your cases that would be hard to remove and might affect any new primers.

[JohnK]

I agree with Mal in that you'll be safe, but wear eye protection just in case. I've deprimed live primers on my Dillon 550 without setting them off I don't think doing it on a single stage would be any more likely to do it.

If you do it on a progressive make sure there is no powder in the hopper or primers in the primer tube (or whatever your particular brand uses) just in case one does get set off.

[JackM]

I've done a few and never had one blow, but perhaps I was lucky. I used a universal decapping die, since there's lots of clearance around the case and won't confine the explosion like a sizer will. The primer will exit the press at high velocity, so figure out where it will go and don't stand there. IIRC, Jim Bullock noted in Precision Shooting Magazine that he chronoed primers at 700 fps. He heated primed cases with a torch until they blew. As Mal said, wear face & body protection.

Bye
Jack

[JerryM]

There is certtainly a possibility that depriming would set off the primer. However, I have deprimed live primers on various occassions and have never had one go off.

I always go very slow when I do it. Wear safety lenses/glasses when you do it to be safe.

Jerry

[HSMITH]

For the price of a primer just pull the bullet and dump the powder and fire the darn thing. They are kinda loud so stick the end of the barrel in a hole in a cardboard box 2 feet square or so. That will keep the wife and the neighbors off your case.

I just don't think that a primer is worth the risk of trying to get it out, and if I did get it out there is no way I would use it again for a new load, so what is the point?

Just my honest opinion, take it for what it is worth.

[Number 6]

1. A primer costs less than two cents; and

2. There is a theoretical, even remote, chance of detonation
if you deprime a live primer.

With that caveat, let me state that I have deprimed many live cases and NEVER had one go off. Then again, I don't slam the lever down and ram the decapping pin into the primer. I may be cheap, but I'm not [that] stupid!

Also, my presses will simply aim the primer down into a collection cup should it actually detonate. Lots of open space away from any powder for the flash, too.

Heck, I've reloaded the primer with no ill effect. The reason for the deprime was the occasional crunched case when it got caught by the edge of the bell-mouthing die.

I just like getting 100 cartridges from 100 primers (1 tray).
Your eyes, your choice.

[NotQuiteSane]

Why bother? If the case is still good, re-use it with the primer. if the case is bad, soak it in oil or fire the primer (only) and toss it in the recycling barrel.

NQS

[cheygriz]

Another vote for squirting a dab of WD-40 into the case, and letting it sit overnight, then depriming normally.

Probably isn't necessary, but I personally get kind of anal retentive about safety.

[C.R.Sam]

I have knocked a lot of live primers out of cases.
Not to save the primers.
To remove mercuric primers and reload the cases.

Safest way tho it just pull bullets, dump powder and shoot the primers. Then decap.

Sam

[labgrade]

I've "punched out" a thousand live primers & always in a singled-staged press - although I can't imagine it would make any difference re a progressive - you are doing a "single-stage" operation after all .....

Done it too with the old-style Lee Loader.

"Punched out" is subjective. It's always done slowly & with deliberation.

DO wear your safety glasses - hearing protection isn't a bad idea - & just s-l-o-w-l-y press (tap) out the old primer.

Have yet to have one go off doing so.

I've never used any type of penetrative oil to deactivate the primer. Seems it would mes up your brass for subsequents & isn't necessary.

Go slow, wear proper protective stuff (just in case) & you'll be OK.

[Larry Ashcraft]

I've deprimed quite a few also, just like labgrade says, slow and easy, eye (and face() protection. Never had one go off.

Just a note. If you fire primed cases in a revolver, they will lock the gun up. I found out the hard way.

[WESHOOT2]

Always wear safety glasses when working; pieces can fly out any time; springs, broken press parts, chips, etc.

One set of eyes..............

[t_bob38]

I've done a lot of these and can recall only one going off, in a military crimped primer. Surprising when it happens. Go slow and wrap something around where the primer will come out to catch it if it does.

[blades67]

I've found my SIG Sauer P220 and Kimber Custom II to be the best way to deprime live .45 ACP ammo. I just load the magazines and deprime until the magazine is empty.

[Jart]

Garand newbie and reloading "pre-newbie" checking in.

I'm thinking of buying a case of '70's production Korean corrosive primed 30.06 from Aim just to get the clips and bandoliers. The cost is about what people locally are getting for clips alone, if one doesn't factor in the (not inconsiderable) freight from Aim.

There's something about just throwing out ammo that isn't, well, right so I got to wondering if I could salvage the brass (assume I lack the heuvos to put corrosive through my "new" Garand - even primer only).

This thread has me thinking it's doable, questions remaining are:

Anything about the '70's Korean that would make the brass not worth keeping for reloading? (It is boxer).

Anything specific about this stuff that would complicate the issue? Bullets more difficult to pull / primers lacquered in addition to crimped?

I'm guessing all I'd need in addition to my (not yet unpacked) RCBS starter kit for 30.06 would be a "bullet puller"?

TIA

[brickeyee]

While I have removed live primers, I would give real second thoughts to punching out crimped primers. The forces are getting a little to large for my comfort...

[VonFatman]

I may have missed it...

But I don't think anyone mentioned one other live primer removal precaution:

Wear EAR PLUGS while doing this deed (along with the other eye, hand, etc. suggestions).

You only have one set of ears too! Every time you "ring" them, you've done permanant hearing loss.

Bob

[CaptainRazor]

edit, spoke before I read carefully.

[Powderman]

Jart:

The problem lies with the priming compound used. I have heard that the Korean '06 is not only corrosive primed, but hotter than hammered you know what.

Thus, what I would do is this:

Pull the bullets.

Dump the powder; save it for a bit.

Deprime the cases, going SLOWLY.

Now, you have some good bullets and cases.

Now, take the powder you have saved. Put it in a cool place.

Next time you thatch your lawn, scatter the powder all over it. Or, into a flower bed if you want.

Gunpowder makes GREAT fertilizer. (Nitrogen based, dont'cha know.) I did this ONCE with some leftover powder in the wife's flower bed. Holy Cow! Talk about being fruitful and multiplying!!!

[novus collectus]

I bought some of that Korean ammo a few months ago and I was very dissapointed. While the 60 garand clips were nice, I don't even have a garand. I thought they were 1903 clips. (good excuse to get one sooner though). There were about 80-90 cartridges that were so badly damaged that I could never use them. Of the remaining brass (I pulled the bullets) I had another 80 or so questionable cartidges with dings and mild dents. Almost all of the rest of the brass had some wear. I got it on sale for around $60 for 480 rounds and the .50 cal ammo box. I barely got what I paid for.

Whatever you do DON'T use the old powder (advice I took from others on TFL). It wasn't even the same type of powder from one cartridge to the next even in the same clip. The bullets were fine though and they were not too hard to pull.

[Powderman]

I bought some of that Korean ammo a few months ago and I was very dissapointed. While the 60 garand clips were nice, I don't even have a garand. I thought they were 1903 clips. (good excuse to get one sooner though). There were about 80-90 cartridges that were so badly damaged that I could never use them. Of the remaining brass (I pulled the bullets) I had another 80 or so questionable cartidges with dings and mild dents. Almost all of the rest of the brass had some wear. I got it on sale for around $60 for 480 rounds and the .50 cal ammo box. I barely got what I paid for.

!!!!!

[novus collectus]

Sorry, I misspoke. I pulled the bullets on just the 80 or so rounds and not on the rest. Also, I thought they were 1903 stripper clips when I ordered them and not after I tried to make the enblocs fit in my 03 springfield like my post suggests.

I showld proof reed more offen.