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November 7, 2012, 09:55 PM | #26 |
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Looks great. Love the grips.
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November 8, 2012, 12:51 AM | #27 | |
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It looks good.
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November 8, 2012, 08:15 PM | #28 |
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Zhills (Zephyr Hills?) - agree that most people can learn by trying. It's also a lot of fun to pile on the kudos to folks like Mark who did so and give us a look at the results.
Until recently I never had a gun that was crappy enough to risk ruining, but that was OK enough that it might be redeemed as a potentially good shooter. I now have one, bought for $50 + $25 for a new base pin. Initially I was interested only in getting the rust off, but now I think I'll tear it apart and see what happens. The first time I disassembled and rebuilt a carburetor, the results were not impressive. Had two tiny pieces left over - never a good thing. |
November 8, 2012, 10:21 PM | #29 | |
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I thought I knew Brownells' catalog inside and out, but that's a new one on me. Would you by any chance happen to remember (or have a record of) the catalog number? |
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November 8, 2012, 10:35 PM | #30 |
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November 9, 2012, 06:53 AM | #31 | |
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I open it back up, and watch the function and see the DA sear keeps slipping under the hammer. I think to myself, there must be a something to keep it from doing that that I missed. Well, I look around the box in which I do all the work, and sure enough there is a very small pin and spring that the instructions never mention (although it is in the schismatic I have) and that I did not even see fall out that keeps the sear in the right position--and, of course, that is the first piece to be reassembled, meaning I have to completely strip it again (well, almost, as I did not have to remove the mainspring) and reassemble it. The good news is that, because I have already reassembled it once, reassembling again took only 1/4 of the time, since I now knew the process. All in all, a great experience. |
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November 9, 2012, 05:13 PM | #32 |
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Though I still have to get the medallions changed out on the original grips, I did get them smoothed out - sanded down the worn-down checkering and re-finished them. So, not being able to wait to see how they looked on the gun, I went ahead and took some more photos:
r2012-11-09_11-03-50_450 by 69murray, on Flickr r2012-11-09_11-09-39_117 by 69murray, on Flickr ...And my whole, meager revolver collection: r2012-11-09_11-17-24_861 by 69murray, on Flickr |
November 10, 2012, 01:54 PM | #33 |
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You did an EXCELLENT job on that Ruger... what a great looking revolver!
You've inspired me to try my hand at rust blueing.
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November 10, 2012, 03:37 PM | #34 | |
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Did you use Brownells rust bluing juice, or some other product? |
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November 10, 2012, 03:54 PM | #35 |
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marklmurray, did you re-blue the H&R? from your picture it looks new.
Last edited by rrruger; November 14, 2012 at 01:26 AM. |
November 10, 2012, 05:31 PM | #36 |
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In my opinion one of the all time great weapons! Tank-Tough and great preportions. Congrats! Excellent job, Sir.
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November 10, 2012, 08:43 PM | #37 |
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Great looking pistol - you did a beautiful job on it! I love Rugers and any Ruger fan would love to have that one! Thanks for sharing!
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November 10, 2012, 08:53 PM | #38 | |
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November 10, 2012, 09:01 PM | #39 | |
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Granted, I am in Georgia and you can make steel rust just by breathing on it. |
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November 11, 2012, 01:15 PM | #40 |
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Finally located some 'before' pictures
I was regretting the fact that I forgot (as I always do) to get any "Before pictures". However, I was able to dig up the original online posting of the pics from where I bought it.
Here's what it looked like before the refinish: 2012-11-04_12-59-25_563 by 69murray, on Flickr wm_2815264 by 69murray, on Flickr |
November 11, 2012, 03:23 PM | #41 |
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Wow! That looks amazing. How many rust treatments did you do? I tried my hand at rust bluing a few months back on an old Smith & Wesson Model 36. While it turned out OK for my first try, it isn't nearly as nice as yours.
Good job.
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November 11, 2012, 03:55 PM | #42 |
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Thanks!
I think I did 6 rustings on this, but it may have only been 5. At about 4, I could have stopped, but went one or two more 'for good measure'. I did a CZ82 several months earlier and only did 4 on that one. I've had it to the range several times, so there are a couple hundred rounds through it since the refinish and, so far, there is no (zero) wear marks from the recoil spring on the barrel (it's a blowback operated semi - the spring surrounds the entire barrel). No wear anywhere else, either. This gives me a great deal of confidence in the toughness of a rust blue finish. Of course, the durability and number of rustings necessary may vary greatly depending on the composition of the steel. I think I've been pretty lucky so far. I do try to be as careful as possible (for me). I always use distilled water, and I de-grease after every carding with acetone. One other thing I've taken to doing is heating up the metal (with an old blow dryer) before applying the rusting juice. |
November 11, 2012, 10:40 PM | #43 |
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You know, that is a fine looking job you did. It's something I've been interested in. How hard is it to do a rust blue?
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November 12, 2012, 07:50 AM | #44 | |
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For me, the most challenging parts of the process are the diss/re-assembly of the gun. The actual rust bluing is pretty much just waiting, degreasing, and boiling water. Here are a few good articles to get you more details, but it really isn't much more complicated than that. It's easy, but will take several days (it's why the call it 'slow' rust bluing). http://www.hobbygunsmith.com/Archives/Aug03/HowTo.htm http://www.finishing.com/4400-4599/4469.shtml http://powderburns.tripod.com/brown.html In my opinion, the extra time is really worth it. Rust bluing provides a really tough (for bluing) finish - a good bit tougher than commercially hot salt blued finishes, in my experience. Good luck to you! |
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November 12, 2012, 11:17 AM | #45 | |
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And, since my eyes are always bigger than my stomach, I just bought a Colt 1903 for a follow up project. |
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November 12, 2012, 12:48 PM | #46 | |
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I love those 1903's and have thought of getting one of those as a project as well. Are you planning to put a high polish on it? It could just be a myth about rust bluing not working as well with highly polished metal, but that's what's always given me pause about re-finishing a Colt - doing it justice with a high polish. However, the more I do these rust blues, the more I'm convinced that the process imparts much more depth to a 'matte' finish than does regular hot salt bluing. I'm looking forward to seeing the results of your Iver Johnson and that Colt. Good Luck! |
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November 12, 2012, 02:19 PM | #47 |
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This looks great I have redone a few revolvers. I have never seen this technique. I may give it a try next time. How well does it wear with carry?
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November 12, 2012, 03:16 PM | #48 | |
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The CZ82 I did earlier this year, though I don't carry it, has been to the range several times and has had several hundred rounds through it and shows no wear at all - none. It's a straight blowback design, so the recoil spring surrounds the barrel and this is usually the first place that wear occurs on these guns. So far, the barrel is still pristine. Just anecdotal, I know, but it's all the data I have at the moment. My personal opinion: It will wear as well, if not better than any factory blue finish. |
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November 12, 2012, 03:31 PM | #49 | |
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October 25, 2013, 12:56 PM | #50 |
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I want to thank you. A while back I read your post and thought to myself, "I can do that" I did with two revolvers. Both turned out pretty good too. One was an Official Police made in 1932 and the other was a Smith made between 1948 and 1952. Both turned out pretty good! In the beginning they were rusted with deep pitting in places. Not to mention some springs and a bolt were missing. I got them cheap off Gunbroker and thought it would be fun to play with them. They both are now in fine form and shoot just fine although I use some pretty mild loads with them.
Thanks! |
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