Powder flask leaks

Lt. Skrumpledonk Ret · January 27, 2014, 04:26 PM

Has anyone had a powder flask that doesn't really hold powder in the spout once it is turned right-side-up? Anyone have an idea on how to correct this problem short of smacking it with a hammer?
It's a Remington model powder flask

maillemaker · January 27, 2014, 04:39 PM

I'm not sure what you mean. Is it leaking out of the flask or back into the flask from the spout?

I've got a couple of those brass flasks with the spring loaded sliding valve arrangement.

Either the spring is not strong enough and/or the action has become gummy but frequently the trap door does not completely close.

I don't use the spout on the flask to measure anything tho, so it doesn't matter to me.

Steve

freedom475 · January 27, 2014, 04:45 PM

I tried to fix that problem with a hammer (etc.) and broke the little flappper valve off...big surprise 'eh

Soldered it back on and it gave me several years of service. But then I couldn't leave it alone and managed to break it again. This time I just ordered a new cap from Dixie.

The new one came with no holes drilled for the little screws...so I just used "Barge" and glued it on....it works just great and it is much easier to fill with a funnel than to remove the little screws so I am happy with it now.

Very glad that I called Dixie

This one is for a Colt so I don't know if it is the same size as the Remington...but you can measure it and see. https://www.dixiegunworks.com/produc...66bcogvaquvt36

Lt. Skrumpledonk Ret · January 27, 2014, 04:59 PM

The valve does not seal in the closed position.

Quote:

Is it leaking out of the flask or back into the flask from the spout?

Both. If I hold it upside down and shake it powder will come out. If I fill up the spout and quickly turn it right-side-up I can see the powder fall back into the flask.

Pahoo · January 27, 2014, 05:34 PM

Sounds like you have a Gate valve type as opposed to the Push-Botton type. There is too much space between the top of the gate and the bottom side of the end cap. There is always a certain amount of leakage but yours sounds too excessive and if by chance you have 4F in there, it really shows. Unscrew your spout and look at the gate. See if you can deflect it. You gate may be coming loose from the handle or you handle shaft bore may have opened up. I'd say you need a new flask-head. ....

Be Safe !!!

PS: Flask-heads come in different sizes so you will have to measure yours, in order to get the right one. For a little more money, you can buy a complete new flask and safe this one as a wall -hanger. ....

http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product...oducts_id=7836

Doc Hoy · January 27, 2014, 06:13 PM

CVA - bent or loose valve slide or something wedged in the works keeping it from closing completely

Treso - something wedged in the works keeping it from closing completely

Clean it up good and examine the valve mechanism.

Problem should be pretty easy to spot.

sltm1 · January 27, 2014, 06:40 PM

I have that problem with one of mine...merely push the thumb lever back into the closed position before you right the flask and you'll have no problem

bedbugbilly · January 28, 2014, 11:30 AM

Powder flasks are like guns - they need to be cleaned once in a while. It the head is brass and it gets a lot of use, you also can get some corrosion over time. Let's face it . . . the majority of the reproduction flasks are not built as well as some of the old originals were. The flask heads appear to be stamped and the valve fitting isn't always the best.

I've had the same problem on several flasks over the years. I've ended up taking the heads off and doing a good cleaning. Sometimes, the flat valve plate can be bent just a little to tighten it up some. A "hammer" on anything is never a cure!

Personally, I've never had a flask spring go bad - doesn't mean it can't happen. Usually, it's either just poor fitting of the valve or crud build up. I had a "Peace Flask" one time that leaked like a sieve. You could unscrew the spout and just look at the valve opening and see that the gate was "canted" off and not riding flat along the underside of the head. I never did get it to work worth a darn.

Dixie, Track of the Wolf, etc. have some spare parts. Although not real "authentic" - I've come to love my brass CVA tube flask with the spring loaded push button valve. I know there are some push button spring loaded valves out there for adapting to powder horns. If you love your flask, you might check and see if one of those could be adapted to your flask head. (You could remove the spring and lever/valve - solder any holes shut {without powder around of course :roll eyes:} and then put the new valve on. Or, it would probably just be cheaper to switch to a new flask?

Fingers McGee · January 28, 2014, 01:08 PM

And, sometimes the shaft on a gate style valve or the bore in the cap get worn to a point that no matter what you do, it will not seal. It took about 6 years of CAS matches & thousands of rounds; but I managed to wear one out (wore out a TDC snail capper too).

FM

**4V50 Gary** · January 28, 2014, 09:44 PM

If you can't fix the valve, replace it.

January 27, 2014, 04:26 PM	#1
Lt. Skrumpledonk Ret Senior Member Join Date: May 30, 2012 Location: Oh, Jesus. Posts: 226	Powder flask leaks Has anyone had a powder flask that doesn't really hold powder in the spout once it is turned right-side-up? Anyone have an idea on how to correct this problem short of smacking it with a hammer? It's a Remington model powder flask

January 27, 2014, 04:45 PM	#3
freedom475 Senior Member Join Date: November 18, 2008 Location: Rocky Mountains of Montana Posts: 292	I tried to fix that problem with a hammer (etc.) and broke the little flappper valve off...big surprise 'eh Soldered it back on and it gave me several years of service. But then I couldn't leave it alone and managed to break it again. This time I just ordered a new cap from Dixie. The new one came with no holes drilled for the little screws...so I just used "Barge" and glued it on....it works just great and it is much easier to fill with a funnel than to remove the little screws so I am happy with it now. Very glad that I called Dixie This one is for a Colt so I don't know if it is the same size as the Remington...but you can measure it and see. https://www.dixiegunworks.com/produc...66bcogvaquvt36 __________________ Maker of Horse Tack and Cowboy Gear. www.7xleather.com Mister, why do you carry a 45? "Cause Sam Colt don't make a 46." Last edited by freedom475; January 27, 2014 at 04:51 PM.

January 27, 2014, 05:34 PM	#5
Pahoo Senior Member Join Date: February 16, 2006 Location: IOWA Posts: 8,783	Worn flask-head ??? Sounds like you have a Gate valve type as opposed to the Push-Botton type. There is too much space between the top of the gate and the bottom side of the end cap. There is always a certain amount of leakage but yours sounds too excessive and if by chance you have 4F in there, it really shows. Unscrew your spout and look at the gate. See if you can deflect it. You gate may be coming loose from the handle or you handle shaft bore may have opened up. I'd say you need a new flask-head. .... Be Safe !!! PS: Flask-heads come in different sizes so you will have to measure yours, in order to get the right one. For a little more money, you can buy a complete new flask and safe this one as a wall -hanger. .... http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product...oducts_id=7836 __________________ 'Fundamental truths' are easy to recognize because they are verified daily through simple observation and thus, require no testing. Last edited by Pahoo; January 27, 2014 at 05:45 PM.

January 27, 2014, 06:13 PM	#6
Doc Hoy Senior Member Join Date: October 24, 2008 Location: Naples, Fl Posts: 5,440	Depends CVA - bent or loose valve slide or something wedged in the works keeping it from closing completely Treso - something wedged in the works keeping it from closing completely Clean it up good and examine the valve mechanism. Problem should be pretty easy to spot. __________________ Seek truth. Relax. Take a breath.

January 28, 2014, 11:30 AM	#8
bedbugbilly Senior Member Join Date: November 19, 2009 Posts: 3,287	Powder flasks are like guns - they need to be cleaned once in a while. It the head is brass and it gets a lot of use, you also can get some corrosion over time. Let's face it . . . the majority of the reproduction flasks are not built as well as some of the old originals were. The flask heads appear to be stamped and the valve fitting isn't always the best. I've had the same problem on several flasks over the years. I've ended up taking the heads off and doing a good cleaning. Sometimes, the flat valve plate can be bent just a little to tighten it up some. A "hammer" on anything is never a cure! Personally, I've never had a flask spring go bad - doesn't mean it can't happen. Usually, it's either just poor fitting of the valve or crud build up. I had a "Peace Flask" one time that leaked like a sieve. You could unscrew the spout and just look at the valve opening and see that the gate was "canted" off and not riding flat along the underside of the head. I never did get it to work worth a darn. Dixie, Track of the Wolf, etc. have some spare parts. Although not real "authentic" - I've come to love my brass CVA tube flask with the spring loaded push button valve. I know there are some push button spring loaded valves out there for adapting to powder horns. If you love your flask, you might check and see if one of those could be adapted to your flask head. (You could remove the spring and lever/valve - solder any holes shut {without powder around of course :roll eyes:} and then put the new valve on. Or, it would probably just be cheaper to switch to a new flask? __________________ If a pair of '51 Navies were good enough for Billy Hickok, then a single Navy on my right hip is good enough for me . . . besides . . . I'm probably only half as good as he was anyways. Hiram's Rangers Badge #63

January 27, 2014, 04:39 PM	#2
maillemaker Senior Member Join Date: August 30, 2010 Posts: 1,635	I'm not sure what you mean. Is it leaking out of the flask or back into the flask from the spout? I've got a couple of those brass flasks with the spring loaded sliding valve arrangement. Either the spring is not strong enough and/or the action has become gummy but frequently the trap door does not completely close. I don't use the spout on the flask to measure anything tho, so it doesn't matter to me. Steve

January 27, 2014, 06:40 PM	#7
sltm1 Senior Member Join Date: February 25, 2009 Location: Idaho Posts: 353	I have that problem with one of mine...merely push the thumb lever back into the closed position before you right the flask and you'll have no problem

January 28, 2014, 01:08 PM	#9
Fingers McGee Senior Member Join Date: March 19, 2008 Location: High & Dry in Missouri Ozarks Posts: 2,113	And, sometimes the shaft on a gate style valve or the bore in the cap get worn to a point that no matter what you do, it will not seal. It took about 6 years of CAS matches & thousands of rounds; but I managed to wear one out (wore out a TDC snail capper too). FM __________________ Fingers (Show Me MO smoke) McGee - AKA Man of Many Colts - Alter ego of Diabolical Ken; SASS Regulator 28564-L-TG; Rangemaster and stage writer extraordinaire; Frontiersman, Pistoleer, NRA Endowment Life, NMLRA, SAF, CCRKBA, STORM 327, SV115; Charter member, Central Ozarks Western Shooters Cynic: A blackguard whose faulty vision see things as they are, not as they should be. Ambrose Bierce

January 28, 2014, 09:44 PM	#10
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,841	If you can't fix the valve, replace it. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*