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February 24, 2014, 04:59 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: October 29, 2012
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cleaning black powders.
Ive recently got into shooting black powder revolvers. i bought a 1851 navy by Pietta. loved it so much i bought a Uberti 1847 walker. i plan on getting some 1860 army uberti's in 44cal. but my quistion is, dose anyone have a trick to cleaning the cylinders. ive been using number 13bore cleaner. Totally soak the cylender, then use Q tips to get in deep.i was curious to any new ideas and pointers. thank you.
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February 24, 2014, 07:34 AM | #2 |
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Hot soapy water and a hot hot hot water rinse.
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February 24, 2014, 08:18 AM | #3 |
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Hot water with Dawn dish washing soap and a bore mop. Hold the cylinder under water and the mop will draw water through the nipples or the nipple holes if you removed them. If you do remove them put some anti seize on the threads before you put them back in.
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February 24, 2014, 08:21 AM | #4 |
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I'm with Hal on this, then dry thoroughly with a $10.00 Wally-world hair dryer & oil immediately. Here's my 1858 & my Hawken Carbine, after 5 years of cleaning this way, not a spot of rust & shoots like new. One thing you'll discover as you get into the world of B/P is that it's essentially a very simple process in every way.
A vastly more experienced B/P shooter uses mops instead of patches then washes them out for re-use.
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February 24, 2014, 09:42 AM | #5 |
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Remove wood grip panels, cylinder and other easily removable parts. Put everything in a pan of soapy water. Clean chambers and bore with patches. Rinse everything with hot water and dry. I put everything in oven set at 200 degrees and leave the door propped open a couple inches. When dry lube, put away. Doesn't take long.
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February 24, 2014, 09:56 AM | #6 |
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My favorate cleaning solution is HOT water with Murphy's Oil Soap. Soak everything and clean as previously described. After drying, coat everything, inside and out, with Balistol. Best to run a dry patch through the bore and cylinder bores prior to loading. Never a hint of rust. I use real Goex black powder. Don't know how this works with BP substitutes but would think it would be fine.
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February 24, 2014, 11:31 AM | #7 |
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The hot soapy water/hot clean water/wipe dry/heat with hairdryer works fine for Pyrodex and Jim Shockey's gold as well.
I don't know about others as I haven't used them.
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Allan Quatermain: “Automatic rifles. Who in God's name has automatic rifles”? Elderly Hunter: “That's dashed unsporting. Probably Belgium.” |
February 24, 2014, 11:59 AM | #8 |
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Colt 1860 .44 Stainless with Holster
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February 24, 2014, 12:25 PM | #9 |
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By shooting them. That one is pretty but not too pretty to shoot.
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February 24, 2014, 01:52 PM | #10 |
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Hot soapy water and I used compressed air to blow away the water when finished. This is especially useful when I don't do a complete disassembly. Many times I will simply remove the grips and then dunk the frame and swish it around in hot soapy water and blast the internals with hot water from the faucet.
Then I will blast it dry with compressed air and spray in Rem Oil. I go over the whole gun with Ballistol. Steve |
February 24, 2014, 10:17 PM | #11 |
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Not all black powder substitutes clean up with soap and water. Black Horn is one I heard that doesn't.
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February 24, 2014, 10:52 PM | #12 |
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Remove all wood parts. Disassemble the weapon. Place in dishwasher. Remove promptly after washing.
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February 25, 2014, 03:47 AM | #13 |
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When discussing disassembly.....
I like to remove the nipples too.
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February 25, 2014, 05:55 AM | #14 |
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I use water then some rubbing alcohol down the bore and cylinders to displace the water. Then the oven @ 175f till dry.
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February 25, 2014, 01:27 PM | #15 |
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I clean my black powder muzzle loader with hot soapy water, then dry it with a rag with a dab of oil.
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February 25, 2014, 06:13 PM | #16 |
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I use pyrodex in my .36 C&B open top, and I clean the frame normally but the barrel and cylinder get a quick clean with hot soapy water and a rinse, then into an old pot of boiling water with some diswashing liquid in it.
My logic is that the boiling water evaporates quickly when the parts are removed, reducing rust chances (use tongs to remove, lol). I let the water evaporate, then clean with WD-40 and a toothbrush, then a little hoppe's. I clean out the cylinders carefully to get any WD-40 and hoppe's out. It's actually fast |
February 25, 2014, 06:30 PM | #17 |
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At the range, cheap window washing fluid works great, many Rev War reenactors use a 3 in 1 solution-rubbing alcohol, hydrogen peroxide, Murphy's Oil Soap. Straight peroxide provides a quick and easy cleaning for the bore but is hard on the metal.
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February 25, 2014, 08:44 PM | #18 |
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What is a good cleaning procedure when using Triple 7 powder>
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February 26, 2014, 06:12 AM | #19 |
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I find that
Hot soapy water (dish detergent) or other water based methods suggested by others, works about equally for Goex, Pyrodex, or Triple 7.
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February 26, 2014, 08:36 AM | #20 |
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Yup clean triple 7 the same as B/P hot soapy / hot clean rinse / wipe / forced air dry / lube.
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Allan Quatermain: “Automatic rifles. Who in God's name has automatic rifles”? Elderly Hunter: “That's dashed unsporting. Probably Belgium.” |
February 27, 2014, 03:17 AM | #21 |
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I am ready to start a percussion Pietta 1858 New Army .44 and never start anything about those pistols, have always been single action cowboy and loved. Loved Lever rifles also, but have never had an idea how to start and what do i need to buy as tools and loading , even though i do hand reload for years but have no ideas.
I am ready to buy from a Cabelllas pistol and stuff do i need to buy ? Anyone ready to help or any pages online pages that are read to help me, i am ready to thank you for any help. Thanks any help as i have been sick for the last year, but will appreciate it. |
February 27, 2014, 04:05 AM | #22 |
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Bones
Nice that you are now well enough to become reinvolved.
There is a sticky at the top of the discussion board from Gatofeo which can serve as a good cap and ball intro. It is under, "So you want a cap and ball revolver" That will answer many of your questions including the supplies and tools you will need. Others will jump in with advice but remember...It is only advice. The people who post here are possibly the most knowledgeable cap and ball shooters extant. (With the exception of this author) but their recommendations reflect a lot of personal preference. Try their recommendations, but don't be afraid to decide that it doesn't work for you. As you know, shooting is too potentially dangerous to make unacceptable compromises. Eye protection and ear plugs which you probably already have. The pistol you have chosen is a good weapon to start on.
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February 27, 2014, 09:05 AM | #23 |
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I always used Windex, it evaporates and is cheap.
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February 27, 2014, 11:04 AM | #24 | |
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Quote:
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207028 The Pietta 1858 is a fine gun and I have gotten pretty good accuracy out of it with .454 balls and 20 grains of powder. To shoot it, you are going to need bullets, powder, filler or wads, and caps. For powder, you will want 3F black powder or its equivalent if you using a BP substitute. You will need a powder measure to measure out charges. Do not load charges directly from a flask as you risk an explosion and hand grenade. I find #10 CCI caps fit my Pietta 1858 fine. I find .454 balls seat in the chambers well shaving off a ring of lead as they should to insure a gas-tight seal and prevent chain fires. It is important that the balls shave lead when seated. You do not want an air gap between the powder charge and the ball. If your ball does not seat on the charge, you should fill the gap with something such as lubed wads or Cream of Wheat. If you choose a loose filler like Cream of Wheat make sure you put enough in so that it gets compacted under the ball. Otherwise it will mix with the powder and dilute your charge and give you inconsistent accuracy. If you shoot with two hands, make sure to keep your hands and fingers away from the side or in front of the cylinder. The gases vented during firing can injure. Chain fires will remove fingers. To clean it, you are going to need a pistol cleaning rod with a patch jig attachment and a bristle brush attachment. You are going to need a screwdriver set so that you can choose a bit that precisely fits the screws you will need to remove to disassemble the gun for cleaning. If you choose any old screwdriver you will end up with buggered screw heads. Cleaning can be done with hot water and liquid dish soap. Make sure you clean your gun immediately after shooting it. Make sure you get it completely dry after cleaning and oil it and the bore to prevent rust. Steve |
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February 27, 2014, 09:42 PM | #25 |
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Thanks for the helping guys, i appreciated the help from all of you.
Have always loved revolvers and never gotten involved with black powder but it seems interested to me and being fun. |
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