Casting with pure lead

Civil War Life · January 27, 2011, 11:30 PM

Do any of you cast pure lead? I do for my .58 cal musket. They are also hollow base. What temp is best for casting pure lead? I have found that when the temp gets over 650 I start getting air pockets at the top of the base plug. Could my problem be my mold is too hot, or the lead too hot? Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks.

Ideal Tool · January 28, 2011, 12:25 AM

Hello, Civil War Life. I too cast those BIG bullets..Use mine in an original 3 band British Snider. Pure lead takes a lot of heat to melt. Not sure about your air pockets..are you sure all oil is removed from mould/base pin? The high heat could be driving out gasses from contaminants? How do the light vent lines look on base plug? I always have had better luck when I smoked the plug well with wooden match..& keep it hot! Best of luck!

l98ster · January 28, 2011, 08:17 AM

I cast for an 1862 CS richmond musket using pure lead. I am using a .577 470 grain rapine mold. My lead temps are close to 800 degrees. I smoke the mold with a candle and discard the first 5-6 castings to get the mold up to temperature. I have very good success with this procedure!

-George

Rifleman1776 · January 28, 2011, 10:20 AM

All I cast is pure lead. I don't have a thermometer but know a good temp is about 650 degrees.
That you are getting air pockets at that temp is a puzzler. Wrinkles and air pockets do occur at lower temps.
I look for my balls to start getting a frosty appearance. The frost thing doesn't hurt but is an indicator I am at a good casting temp and shouldn't go higher.
I smoke cast iron moulds but don't bother with aluminum.
I no longer use fluxing stuff. I don't believe it does anything useful and haven't had problems since quitting.
But, I do stir frequently and skim dross from the top. I like clean lead.

snuffy · January 30, 2011, 02:45 PM

If what you're using is actually pure lead, you will have to run it up to AT LEAST 800 degrees to get it to fill out a mold. Pure lead just doesn't flow much under 650 degrees. Pure lead melts at 621 degrees, so @ 650 it is barely liquid.

Not filling out the tip or bottom of a hollow point means your lead is not hot enough. Or, it has to be pressure cast, that means a ladle like a Lyman that has a "tit" to mate with the bevel in the sprue plate. The ladle is held tight against the sprue plate creating pressure from the lead still in the ladle. Another method is holding the mold tight against the spout of a bottom pour pot. The weight of the lead in the pot pressurizes the mold cavity.

Civil War Life · January 30, 2011, 04:10 PM

When my lead gets over 700 deg I start getting lots of air holes at the top of my base plug and bullet weight gets very erratic. When I keep it at about 650 I get no air holes and bullet weight is very consistent. I will try holding the sprew plate up tight with the spout and raise the temp to see if that helps. This is a problem that has plagued me for years. I would think that a higher temp would be better but I just can't seem to get any consistency at higher temps. I'll try anything.
Thanks

January 27, 2011, 11:30 PM	#1
Civil War Life Senior Member Join Date: January 15, 2011 Location: Virginia Posts: 166	Casting with pure lead Do any of you cast pure lead? I do for my .58 cal musket. They are also hollow base. What temp is best for casting pure lead? I have found that when the temp gets over 650 I start getting air pockets at the top of the base plug. Could my problem be my mold is too hot, or the lead too hot? Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks.

January 30, 2011, 02:45 PM	#5
snuffy Senior Member Join Date: May 20, 2001 Location: Oshkosh wi. Posts: 3,055	If what you're using is actually pure lead, you will have to run it up to AT LEAST 800 degrees to get it to fill out a mold. Pure lead just doesn't flow much under 650 degrees. Pure lead melts at 621 degrees, so @ 650 it is barely liquid. Not filling out the tip or bottom of a hollow point means your lead is not hot enough. Or, it has to be pressure cast, that means a ladle like a Lyman that has a "tit" to mate with the bevel in the sprue plate. The ladle is held tight against the sprue plate creating pressure from the lead still in the ladle. Another method is holding the mold tight against the spout of a bottom pour pot. The weight of the lead in the pot pressurizes the mold cavity. __________________ The more people I meet, the more I love my dog They're going to get their butts kicked over there this election. How come people can't spell and use words correctly?

January 28, 2011, 12:25 AM	#2
Ideal Tool Junior member Join Date: October 6, 2010 Location: Michigan Posts: 1,080	Hello, Civil War Life. I too cast those BIG bullets..Use mine in an original 3 band British Snider. Pure lead takes a lot of heat to melt. Not sure about your air pockets..are you sure all oil is removed from mould/base pin? The high heat could be driving out gasses from contaminants? How do the light vent lines look on base plug? I always have had better luck when I smoked the plug well with wooden match..& keep it hot! Best of luck!

January 28, 2011, 08:17 AM	#3
l98ster Senior Member Join Date: March 1, 2010 Location: Hopewell Junction, NY Posts: 454	I cast for an 1862 CS richmond musket using pure lead. I am using a .577 470 grain rapine mold. My lead temps are close to 800 degrees. I smoke the mold with a candle and discard the first 5-6 castings to get the mold up to temperature. I have very good success with this procedure! -George

January 28, 2011, 10:20 AM	#4
Rifleman1776 Senior Member Join Date: April 25, 2010 Location: Arkansas Posts: 3,309	All I cast is pure lead. I don't have a thermometer but know a good temp is about 650 degrees. That you are getting air pockets at that temp is a puzzler. Wrinkles and air pockets do occur at lower temps. I look for my balls to start getting a frosty appearance. The frost thing doesn't hurt but is an indicator I am at a good casting temp and shouldn't go higher. I smoke cast iron moulds but don't bother with aluminum. I no longer use fluxing stuff. I don't believe it does anything useful and haven't had problems since quitting. But, I do stir frequently and skim dross from the top. I like clean lead.

January 30, 2011, 04:10 PM	#6
Civil War Life Senior Member Join Date: January 15, 2011 Location: Virginia Posts: 166	When my lead gets over 700 deg I start getting lots of air holes at the top of my base plug and bullet weight gets very erratic. When I keep it at about 650 I get no air holes and bullet weight is very consistent. I will try holding the sprew plate up tight with the spout and raise the temp to see if that helps. This is a problem that has plagued me for years. I would think that a higher temp would be better but I just can't seem to get any consistency at higher temps. I'll try anything. Thanks