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March 23, 2000, 05:38 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: December 1, 1999
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I was thinking about polishing the feed ramp/frame on my 1911 .45. I noticed that after I fired it for the first time there was a small spot on the frame under the feed ramp on the barrel that had the finish beat off by the bullet head as they loaded into the barrel. Was wondering if anybody would tell me how to go about it?
thanks, Cyric13 [This message has been edited by Cyric13 (edited March 23, 2000).] [This message has been edited by Cyric13 (edited March 23, 2000).] |
March 23, 2000, 06:00 PM | #2 |
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I think George has grumped against them, but I use a Dremel tool. I use the little finger-like rubber gizmo with the finest grade of grit, and then the small cotton "drum" with rouge.
I had the benefit of watching a very good pistolsmith do several before I tried it under his watchful eye--on an old, worn-out barrel... The main thing to remember is that you're polishing an existing surface, not removing metal. At least, not on your first effort. FWIW, Art |
March 23, 2000, 09:55 PM | #3 |
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And I'm gonna grump on 'em again! :-) In the hands of someone experienced with the dremel or on something that can't be damaged beyond repair they are probably great little tools. But I've seen so many ramps and barrels totaled by folks using them that I advise against it. It's a little slower but if you use a wooden dowel rod and start with 400 grit paper increasing to 800 you'll get a good surface and the dowel rod is easier to control. George
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March 24, 2000, 01:34 PM | #4 |
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"There oughta be a $200 transfer tax on Dremels." --K. Hackathorn
I'll agree with Art. The best way to learn is to watch a *real* smith do it, ask questions, watch more, and when you think you're ready... Watch more, and ask more questions. Then get an old worn-out beat-up gun to practice on, while the smith is standing at your shoulder, ready to whack you across the back of the head. ------------------ http://pub6.ezboard.com/blibertarian |
March 26, 2000, 03:33 AM | #5 |
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Remember that a Dremel tool's nick name is "Oh [color=#FF0000]█[/color][color=#FF0000]█[/color][color=#FF0000]█[/color][color=#FF0000]█[/color][color=#FF0000]█[/color]". So go slow or pay a gun smith to fix your "Oh [color=#FF0000]█[/color][color=#FF0000]█[/color][color=#FF0000]█[/color][color=#FF0000]█[/color][color=#FF0000]█[/color]"
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March 26, 2000, 04:19 PM | #6 |
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George, let's face it: There are folks out there who can break anvils, and other such complex equipment...
, Art |
March 26, 2000, 09:11 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: October 20, 1999
Location: Ontario, Canada
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This is the technique I used on my first 1911:
Get yourself a piece of wood dowelling approximately the same radius as the feed-ramp. Get wet and dry sandpaper in the following grits: 400, 600, 800, 1200 Wrap a strip of the 400 around the dowell and polish the ramp, on to the 600, etc. If you don't mind the tedium, you can get the ramp as smooth as a mirror. Cheers. |
March 27, 2000, 02:58 AM | #8 |
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Maybe we all could go over to Georges house and see how he does it.I'll bring the beer.
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March 27, 2000, 08:39 AM | #9 |
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Mr.X, you'd be welcome. I use the old fashioned dowel/paper method. George
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March 27, 2000, 08:58 AM | #10 |
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Join Date: January 22, 2000
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If this is new to you,please heed the advise of George. Get a dowel and sandpaper. Practice on any junk metal parts with the dremel until you are able to control it at the speed necessary to do good work.
And then practice,practice,practice before you try it on a good frame. Have Fun! |
March 27, 2000, 07:36 PM | #11 |
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Or, borrow somebody elses 1911 (preferring it to be someone that you don't like much) and polish their 1911's feed ramp with the Dremel Tool (tm). Use the Carbide wheel whendoing it and then you can learn how to weld too. LOL
Dremel Tools and guns are not something that should be mixed unles you have a lot of DT experience. ------------------ Ne Conjuge Nobiscum "If there be treachery, let there be jehad!" |
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