Ride of the Valkyrie

[KyJim]

This review is a bit long, so I've posted it into two parts. The first is about the Dan Wesson Valkyrie in general. The last is about the specific pistol I recently acquired.

PART 1

In Norse mythology, the Valkyries were beautiful but fierce shield maidens who rode to the battlefield and chose the bravest of the fallen to reside in Valhalla. There, between feasting and drinking, the warriors trained for the Norse version of Armageddon. Some myths recount that Valkyries sometimes helped protect warriors they favored. One can almost hear Wagner playing in the background. With this bit of lore, we see why Dan Wesson chose the name Valkyrie for its cross between the CCO and the ECO. The Dan Wesson Valkyrie is well-suited in the role of a beautiful, but deadly protector.



The Valkyrie is the same size as the CCO — a Commander length barrel (4.25 inches) and Officer length grip frame (one less round than the Government model 1911). The ECO has both the Officer length grip frame and the Officer length barrel (3.5 inches). I’m not a big fan of 1911s with barrels shorter than 4.25 inches even though I own one. IMO, they are just harder to make reliable. So, for me, the CCO/Valkyrie sized 1911 is the perfect concealed carry size. The CCO and Valkyrie each also sport an aluminum frame which shaves several ounces off the weight of the pistols.



So, how do the CCO and Valkyrie differ? Let’s start with the slide. The Valkyrie comes with “carry cuts” or “Hi-Power cuts” to the front of the slide. This rakish, narrowing of the slide helps when re-holstering, especially when carrying in an inside the waistband holster. That’s the justification. The real reason for is that it just looks really nice!. There is a ball cut there which is a subtle, but nice touch.



Both pistols have night sights. The CCO has a Novak-style rear sight with two dots and the Valkyrie has a ledge type rear sight with one dot (made by Trijicon). The ledge style rear sight is trendy because it allows easier slide manipulation with one hand out of commission.



Moving down to the frame area. Both pistols come with slim grip panels. The CCO panels are done in a handsome, partially stippled wood. The Valkyrie sports aggressive grips made from G10. The grips complement the 25- LPI checkering on the front of the grip frame and on the mainspring housing. The CCO has a chainlink type of stippling. While these suffice, it’s also hard to argue with the extra grip that checkering gives.



The frame of the Valkyrie is subtlety cut just a bit higher in the trigger area than on the CCO. This enables a higher hold and gives a bit more recoil control. Both pistols also have a rounded butt frame which doesn’t sound like a big deal, but is. A covering garment is much less likely to cling to the frame here, making the guns more concealable. I have a couple of bobtail commander sized pistols with the slightly longer grip frame and I think the rounded butt of the CCO/Valkyrie makes it conceal a bit easier. I have a couple of other 1911s the same size without the rounded butt and their concealibility is a toss up with the bobtailed guns.

Both pistols also use a standard guide rod/recoil spring setup along with a barrel with a bushing. The bushing on each are thicker than normal which may add a little in durability but which adds even more to the looks of the pistols. The Valkyrie has a flush cut, reverse crowned barrel.

The Valkyrie has a recessed slide stop. The CCO does not. For me, this is purely cosmetic. In fact, the non-recessed slide stop is more practical for me. It’s just a bit harder to remove the recessed slide stop. I understand it may have actual benefit for lefties to prevent their strong side thumb from pushing against the slide stop.



One note, DW specifically warns against using solvent based cleaners on anything except the barrel as damage could result to the finish of the gun. From reports I’ve seen, the near black finish can be turned grayish in color. DW specifically mentions Kroil as a gun barrel cleaner that is safe for use on their Duty Finish. If you use a solvent to clean the barrel, DW suggests using an oil based cleaner which is safe on polymers for the rest of the gun.

[KyJim]

PART 2

Turning now to this particular pistol. The gun came in a black, hard shell case along with a small tube of lubricant, two seven round magazines (more on this below), a bushing wrench, a hex wrench for the grips, and the standard paperwork and gun lock. My local gun store had taken the pistol out of the plastic baggy it came in, presumably to inspect it and record the actual serial number. The gun was still somewhat wet with oil on the outside (they must be taking a lesson from Les Baer).

As expected from a gun of this level, slide to frame fit was tight and the gun was beautifully finished. There were no visible tool marks on the inside of the frame when I field stripped it. I used a bushing wrench when I removed the barrel bushing the first time but probably didn’t really have to do so. I was able to turn it without a wrench after that. The barrel locked up tight.

I typically break in a 1911 in sessions; about a hundred rounds per session for three or four sessions. I begin with FMJ and move to hollow points only after I think the gun is reliable with FMJ rounds. I put 115 rounds of FMJ through the pistol during the first range session; 100 rounds of Federal American Eagle and 15 rounds of Aguilla I had on hand.

Though the rear sight is a bit wider than most of my handguns, it did not hinder accuracy at seven and ten yards. The sights were quick to pick up which is what you want in a defensive handgun. The sights were dead on for me. Except for called flyers, I was able to put all the rounds in one ragged hole when I took just a bit of time. However, I mostly shot rapid fire (no double-taps) as this is a defensive gun.

Now for the one negative, though I’m not worried about it. I had three failures to return to battery (FTRB). I loaded six rounds in each of the two mags and shot each mag twice. On the second round of the second mag, I had a FTRB on the last round. Then I noticed these were seven round mags (duh). Anyway, I started loading seven rounds per mag and had two more FTRB on the last round. The last two were from the same mag and I’m pretty sure the first one was too. There was no hesitancy that I could feel in any of the other rounds as they chambered.

I don’t like seven round mags in a 1911 of this size for carry. Trying to cram an extra round into the tube just leaves room for less error. I’m the same way about eight round mags (non-extended) in full size 1911s. The failure to return to battery on the last round can be a sign of a weak mag spring or possibly one that hasn’t taken a “set.” This would be more likely in a new mag.

Dan Wesson recommends 300 to 500 rounds for a break-in period (I actually looked in the owners manual to verify this). So, it’s entirely possible that could be an issue as well. I have had 1911s that had this same issue the first 100-150 rounds and then became absolutely reliable. Some people get outraged when a manufacturer says you need to break in the pistol. I understand that, especially given the price of .45 acp ammo. However, it’s not like you can’t have fun with the pistol and get used to it while breaking it in.

Next trip to the range, I’m taking some six round mags and shoot the pistol with both six and seven round mags. Given the fact all my FTRBs were on the last round and all from the same mag (I thin), I still feel very good about the pistol. Time will tell.

[predecessor]

Thanks for the info KyJim. How is your Valkyrie running now? Any reference as to how it balances and performs in comparison to an ECO?