Nickel v. Brass

[Donaldo]

Can anyone tell me if there is any real significant advantage using nickel cases instead of brass? Does nickel last as long, need annealing, etc.?

I am looking at cases for .270 WIN, .30-30 WCF, 8MM Mauser (JS), and possibly .300 savage.

-Thanks

[kidvillain41300]

Stick to brass............nickel cases tend to be much more harder than brass and dont stretch with each shot......you will find more cases splitting in nickel where it may not happen at all with brass unless you are loading some super hot loads.

[.45 Vet]

I think that nickle sure makes for some pretty ammo, but in my case,(no pun intended), at lower pressures/velocities they don't seem to seal in the chamber as well as the softer brass cases. I've mostly used them in .243 at around 3200fps with 80gr. bullets. I'm keeping them around mid level for longer barrel life. Just my .02

[Leftoverdj]

Nickled brass can be an asset if you are shooting something with a poor extraction system. Otherwise, you are better off with brass.

[Mike Irwin]

In my experience nickled cases crack far sooner than brass.

I'm betting it's because the nickle and brass have much different working properties, and they stress each other as a result, leading to early failure.

I've go some brass .38 Spl. cases that have seen close to 100 loadings.

When I do load nickled brass, I usually end up losing it to a neck crack within 10-12 loadings.

[Wrangler5]

It's my understanding that nickel cases were developed for police and others who carried their ammo in leather belt loops, as a way to counter the verdigris that will develop on a brass case from reactions to the chemicals in the leather. It was not a "better" case as far as shooting goes, and was developed for a market that did not reload cases, so durability for one shot was sufficient.

That said, I do not carry ammo in leather loops, but I do use nickel cases for my full magnum loads, primarily as a way to distinguish them from lesser stuff (in case they fall out of their marked boxes.

[Ruger4570]

In addition. if you try to anneal nickle cases, they will turn color and loose the pretty look. No real advantage to nickle brass, well unless you carry them in leather all the time.

[Donaldo]

Thanks for the input guys. I had heard a while ago that nickel cases were throw-aways (I've always tossed any nickel after firing), then I get into reloading and see them selling new nickel cases. I was a bit confused, but it all makes sense now.

I'm gonna stick with brass.

[amamnn]

I've come to think beautifully cleaned and reflective nickel plated brass wants to be a throwaway. after being ejected , it's awful hard to find in the grass.

[ClarkEMyers]

I gather benchrest shooters tend to avoid nickel because it is more abrasive on the bullet jacket. I have not personally tested this.

[Foxman]

Also ruins nice polished chambers in barrels. just my02# worth

[brickeyee]

The nickel is only a few millionths thick. It is plating over a brass case.
I have noticed the nickel cases do not last as many loadings.
The plating propcess is probably damaging to the brass in terms of overall life. It takes some rather nasty chemicals to plate nickel, and there does not appear to be a barrier layer under the nickle plate to protect the brass.
Not a concern if the case will not be reloaded.

[Jeanne Riley]

As the case expands in firing and then is resized, the nickel plating will flake off and embed in the wall of the size die. It will scratch your cases and ruin your size die.

[Unclenick]

To echo what others have already said: Nickel just causes grief. I have worn it off pistol cases. Carbide dies must be used with it so the flakes don't score the dies. The brass does seem to become embrittled by the plating process. This may be the result of a pre-plating acid pickle rather than the plating solutions themselves, but whatever the cause the weakening occurs. The mirror suface reflects its surroundings in correct color, providing camouflage. It costs extra. It might be suitable for a smooth operation of a class III weapon. Otherwise, I wouldn't go looking for trouble.

Nick

[44 AMP]

I have been shooting and reloading nickel cases in .357/38 for over 30 years, also come to think of it, .45ACP. Just got some nickel cases for .222 Rem.

Nickel cases generally do not last as long as unplated brass. Other than that, I have never had any trouble with them. Never ruined a sizing die (regular or carbide), never had chambers messed up. Have reloaded some cases (.38) so often that most of the nickel has worn off, but usually they develope mouth cracks before this.

The main advantage of nickel cases is that when stored in leather loops, they do not corrode as rapidly as brass.

The other advantage (besides being bright and shiny, mmmm....shiny ) is that you can use them to tell at a glance what load it is. I have some .222Remington nickel cases, for the loads I use in my Contender. For my rifle loads, I use brass cases. nickel is supposed to be harder and more brittle, and it may be, but in pistol cases I have not noticed a significant difference. I haven't loaded my nickel rifle brass enough to tell yet.

[G56]

When I was a Deputy I carried a 357, you had to have nickel ammo or else the leather would react to it, but for normal use, forget nickel, it just doesn't last very long, it cracks, it peels off, in general it's a pain in the arse when it comes to reloading.

[skeeter1]

I can't speak for rifle reloads (I only reload .38 Spl.), but the nickled ones seem to go more smoothly through my carbide dies.

[hodaka]

I've always heard to stay away from it for the above mentioned reasons. A few years ago, I had a Ruger 77 rebarreled in 6.5-06. I started using nickel brass so that I would not mix it up with the 25 and 30 calibers with the same case. Well, I neck size only but I am up to 15-20 loadings on several different boxes and they seem to be holding up as well as the Lapua and WW brass brass. I like the shine, too.

[Ruger4570]

I have no axe to grind either way, I hav MANY 38 and 357 nickle cases and for the most part they are fine. I have noticed that they do mouth split faster than the all brass ones. Other than that, I have no other nickle cases, just because I don't think they offer a shooter any real advantage and possibly tend to be somewhat inferior to plain brass. I have not seen any damage to my carbide sizer, but I have seen the nickle peel or flake off. If you have nickle cases,, shoot them. If I have my "druthers" I use brass.

[snuffy]

I see some of the myths of nickel plating have re-surfaced again.

The one and only reason for plating brass cases with nickel, is for corrosion resistance. Appearance is secondary.

Nickel IS harder than plain brass, but not by much. Certainly not enough harder to scratch a properly heat treated die. A barrel or chamber will NOT be harmed by nickel plated brass.

It’s not CHROME fellas! If it were chrome, it MIGHT be hard enough to scratch heat treated steel.

[MISFIRE]

500 rounds of nickel plated .45 acp from are now in the range bucket. High primers were a plague. Suspect the layer of plating in the bottom of the pockets was the culprit but I was unable to verify that with measurements. Accuracy went to hell. I am convinced that this was primarily due to inconsistent case expansion and neck tension. Lots of soot residue on the cases. Factory crimping, roll crimping, taper crimping, same results. All 230 gr, FMJ's (Montana Gold, Hornady, Winchester, etc.) by the way. Bullseye, Win 231 about the same. Universal a bit cleaner. Maybe lead bullets are a different thing. I spent too much time with this stuff because the plating sure looks nice and they go really slick through the sizing die. Five reloads. Never saw any flaking or case splitting.