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Old February 1, 2008, 11:28 PM   #1
Sport45
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Clearing Charge?

Reading the thread about squib loads made me remember this and I thought I'd ask for opinions.

Several years ago I was talking to a range officer in Houston about reloading and what-not and in the course of the conversation he pulled from his range bag a few of what he called clearing charges. They were .45acp brass sized, primed with a powder charge (not mentioned, or long forgotten by me), and sealed with a foam earplug. He claimed to use these to eject cast bullets stuck in the barrel after a squib. I don't know if he removed the earplug before using or not. He said he kept them so he could quickly get back into IDPA or or some other competition.

I've never tried this, but in a way it does make some sense if the earplug was removed prior to use and a very small charge of a non-position sensitive powder, like titegroup, was used. I would think leaving the earplug in would be a great way to ring a barrel.

Thoughts?
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Old February 1, 2008, 11:37 PM   #2
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the ear plug might leave a mess in the barrel. a paper wad would do it and not make a mess. Those black power "wonder wads" might work also. heavy felt?
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Old February 2, 2008, 12:49 AM   #3
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"...claimed to use these to eject cast bullets stuck in the barrel after a squib..." He's nuts and asking for trouble. Bad trouble. Firing anything in a obstructed barrel can bulge the barrel as a minimum.
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Old February 2, 2008, 01:03 AM   #4
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Many world records with cast bullets were set (and may still stand; I'm not current on it) using breech loaded guns by people seating their bullets fully into the lands (to keep them as perfectly aligned and undamaged in the bore as possible) then firing them with a blank. So, the principle is well established. How the earplug foam behaves in a lit chamber, I don't know? Some plastics may actually have some benefit in a gun. Cookie-cut low density polyethylene (LDPE) wads (the original P-wad) have been used to eliminate cast bullet leading. The was some speculation that thin layers of the stuff in a bore act as a supplemental bullet lube. NECO sells P-wads made from a different polymer, but the principle is the same.
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Old February 2, 2008, 10:36 AM   #5
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Intuitively, I'd bet that almost all of the earplug material left the barrel right behind the bullet. When the powder goes off, the earplug is going to be smashed into a dense little pancake at the base of the bullet. It would probably leave the barrel in the same shape.
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Old February 2, 2008, 10:43 AM   #6
brickeyee
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I would not risk damage to a many hundred dollarr firearm with this kind of makeshift stuff.

Black powder guns can also be damaged by failing to seat the bullet on the powder charge.
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Old February 2, 2008, 11:05 AM   #7
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This idea definitely crossed my mind - I was about to pull the bullet out of one right there... but after some more consideration I dropped it.

The reason being that during the normal shot your case expands due to internal pressure, creating the seal, preventing the gases from going back, into the gun and into your face.

Without the bullet the pressure might not build up sufficiently to to create the seal.

Bottom line - I decided not to try this. Simply hammering gently with an aluminum rod seems whole lot safer.
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Old February 2, 2008, 10:56 PM   #8
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I think I'll try it. I probably still have a few squibs in my bucket of reloads for my .45acp (Long story, powder measure malfunction on 550b). I've been using a short piece of 1/4" stainless tubing to drive them out after dropping a 9mm brass on top of the bullet to protect the bore. I'll try 3rg of titegroup and a earplug cut flush with the top of the case.

Next time I have a squib that leaves a cast bullet stuck in the bore I'll give it a "shot" and let you know the results. If I can, I'll catch what comes out in a box of newsprint.

(I tried the powder funnel squib detector but couldn't hear the powder moving in any of them, even the known charged loads.)
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Old February 3, 2008, 03:32 AM   #9
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Sounds like a perfect way to ring bulge a barrel. At the very least. It may work very well, but I'd let someone else do it to their gun.
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Old February 3, 2008, 03:58 AM   #10
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A small brass rod and a little dead blow hammer from harbor freight is considerably cheaper than a $1000+ firearm and loss of your limbs or sight! I have done some stupid/scary Sh#$t in my life but the afore mentioned was not included!
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Old February 3, 2008, 04:44 AM   #11
Sport45
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Quote:
Sounds like a perfect way to ring bulge a barrel. At the very least. It may work very well, but I'd let someone else do it to their gun.
I'd normally agree. The foam earplug was what had me worried and maybe I shouldn't use it. I've shot hundreds of 190gr cast bullets over 3-4gr of Titegroup for plinker rounds in 30-06 size cartridges without fillers so I'm not really worried about the space between the primer and the bullet. If the earplug was right behind the bullet I believe it would pancake and act just like Mal H said. I can see the earplug causing trouble if it has to travel a distance to reach the bullet. Then the effect could be the same as a second bullet down the bore and a barrel ring could result.

Next question: To drive a stuck bullet from a 1911 barrel, is it best to stand the barrel on its hood and drive down on the bullet with a rod, or should you stand the rod on the bench, place the barrel over it and tap on the barrel hood? Or do you leave the barrel in the gun, stand it up and let the locking lugs support it?

(I don't own any $1000+ handguns, but I'm rather fond of my extremities.)
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Old February 3, 2008, 03:19 PM   #12
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Quote:
To drive a stuck bullet from a 1911 barrel, is it best to stand the barrel on its hood and drive down on the bullet with a rod, or should you stand the rod on the bench, place the barrel over it and tap on the barrel hood? Or do you leave the barrel in the gun, stand it up and let the locking lugs support it?
A few DOs and a few DON'Ts:

Open the action, grasp the slide and frame firmly, place the rear of the gun against a wooden bench, place a 3/8" WOOD dowel in the bore and strike it with a soft-face hammer.

If you try this with the breech closed (action in battery), the action will cushion the blow. If you place the gun against a concrete bench and strike the front, you will damage the gun. Do not rest the gun on the hammer and strike the dowel as you can chip the sear.

Never place the muzzle against anything hard or hit it with a hammer (or a rock, wrench, multi-tool, etc), and try not to hammer of the "hood" (barrel extension), if you wish to maintain match accuracy.
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