Homemade Gun Safe (In Progress)

[musher]

I think the connection between the handle and locking mechanism should have a shearing connection. This will prevent someone from directly applying enough pressure via the handle to disrupt the lock.

Round sleeve on the handle over a round shaft for the locking mechanism with a small roll pin to hold them together would work. You could knock this apart later for maintenance/repair/improvements should you desire.

[Pope94/IA]

Round stock would work also. I think that would be a little easier to work with too.

I had another plan drawn up on paper of actually using a bearing and then make out a special bolt in the lathe that would slide through the bearing and hold the locking mechanism in place. The only thing I was worried about on that is strength. I think if someone started beating on the handle it would pop something loose.

[a1abdj]

I think the connection between the handle and locking mechanism should have a shearing connection.

Indeed it should.

Instead of a roll pin, what about something like this:

[itman]

Word of advice. Make sure you can fix your safe threw a normal size door.

[Pope94/IA]

26" deep it'll fit though interior doors. I thought of that earlier.

I changed up the handle a bit.

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[MarkDozier]

Are you stagger welding the frame or going back and laying a full bead. Also you are burying your rod in the puddle at the end of your bead. Ease it out and let the puddle fill as you do. The ends of your beld will be smoother and have better penetration.
Have you calculated the weight. This is 30 lb plate your using.
Awesome project.

[mxsailor803]

This is a very interesting project that for some reason has caught my interest. Looking like a good start though. There is a guy on rimfirecentral in the 10/22 action section building a receiver out of brass. But this is by far more of my fabrication abilities.

[Pope94/IA]

If your looking at the four welds on the front of the door then I can explain that. To be honest im not exactly sure of the name for it but the tip that is inside of the nozzle has the threads all messed up and the thing doesn't screw in all the way. So when you weld sometimes the wire will sway from the side to side inside your nozzle. Plus they are horizontal welds.

Thanks for the tips though.


mxsailor,

It really doesn't take too much abilities to make this. If a guy had the materials, tools, and a little bit of thinking ability then this project isn't too hard. For being my first time ever doing this, it's a lot of trial and error. Especially on this handle. So far ive used welder, press (notcher, whole punch), drill press, plasma cutter (torch could have worked aswell), mill (which I could have done without, just wanted to make it easier), and steel lathe.

[Pope94/IA]

Im thinking about re doing the inside of the door. Keep that inch thick plate but remake the locking pins. I am going to put four pins in that are thicker and have gears in there to turn it. It was an idea I got last night and I think it will actually work.

a1abdj, have you ever worked with gears in a gunsafe door?

[a1abdj]

a1abdj, have you ever worked with gears in a gunsafe door?

Everything from very simple, to fairly complex. If going this route you'll want to make sure that everything lines up properly, that the gears are a bit overbuilt, and of very good quality.

Gears can cause all sorts of problems, and the more complex the design, the bigger those problems can become.

[Pope94/IA]

After.looking at prices and figuring up the cost on the gears I put that idea down. I went back to the flat steel.

I decided to add a couple more pins in which made me change my design. Here's what I got.
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The wheel on the left will rotate the other two wheels. I still have yet to make the bracing that goes from the wheels to the pins.

I will be adding something in the first wheel to stop it from rotating too far. I just need the pins made so I know where to stop it.

Front view with the handle on.

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[I'vebeenduped]

We all buy these things in the hope that they will never be necessary. It may very well be that your unique design would give a would be thief absolute fits!! Well done, man!

David

[Pope94/IA]

Question on the sheet metal.

What would you recommend on the gauge? Should I go with 10 or 11 gauge? or 7 gauge? Im worried about heat along with being theft proof.

[Rembrandt]

My preference would be 7 gauge (3/16") or even heavier with 1/4", 10 gauge (1/8") would do fine. One of my safes has 1/4" sides and 1" thick door.....but it also weighs in at 1500 lbs.

[Pope94/IA]

I think I'm gonna go with the 3/16".

Here's what I got done today.

Wholes cut for new pins and the bracing for the pins.

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[FAS1]

I think 3/16" (7ga) would be a good choice for a residential safe. Please weigh it when you are done.

I would also make sure the bolt work is supported well so the supports on the door won't bend easily if the door is pried.

[Pope94/IA]

I will need a full 5x10 sheet of 3/16 metal which is roughly 375. 7.66lbs per sq ft. I would guess so far my safe right now with the frame is pushing 200. Add in the durock cement boards and give another 50-100 lbs for inside materials (metal, fabric, etc..) To kind of give you an idea.

Hopefully I can get it weighed after im done. It wont be a super heavy safe by any means but it will definetely need more then one person with a dolley to take it.

[Rembrandt]

Pins only at top and bottom?......nothing on the sides?

[Pope94/IA]

I got two on the top and two on the bottom. I have been debating putting more on the sides.

[Rembrandt]

Could probably cam something off the existing linkage. Only need to be moveable on one side, hinge side could be solid.

[Pope94/IA]

Sorry its been a few days since I last posted. Made a few modifications to the locking mechanism. I picked up my sheet metal yesterday that wrap around the thing. Just need a couple more pieces for the top and bottom. Hopefully I will have a picture today after school for you guys.

[Remmy1]

I believe the material that your looking for to seal your SAFE, could be found at a local Fireplace/ wood burning stove store, it is the fiber rope looking type that you were describing earlier. This comes in different sizes and length and I think this would work great for your application!!!!

[Pope94/IA]

Here is three of the sides covered in 3/16" sheet metal.

The top isn't suppose to be there. It's a sheet of 1/8" that I set up there to get a feeling of what it would be like.

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This thing is really starting to get heavy!

Wednesday I picked up the sheet metal and I bought a 5x10 sheet from a guy and I was cutting my last piece and I realized that it was short a foot in a half. You could see where the guy had sheered it off. I called him up and he apologized for it saying he should have measured it and it was stupid of him. We had a couple laughs about it and he told me to bring back my left over piece and trade him for the piece to cover the front.
Its too bad my pick up got 6 mpg pulling that trailer to pick it up!! I wonder if he'll reimburse me with the half tank worth of gas I used up!! Haha.

Remmy1,

We have that same rope material in our wood stove at our cabin. We kept that as an option too. I believe it would be the cheaper route. I talked with a lady that works for the company who produces palusol and she basically said I wouldn't be able to get a hold of it. The only way I could is talking with some gun safe companies to see if they would sell me a few strips. She also said that it is sold as a raw material and alot of gun safe companies wont share their "secrets" on how to apply it.

[guggep]

Hi Pope,

Here are a couple of links where you can get fireseals. The hagar below looks exactly like the stuff I purchased from AMSEC - only cheaper.

http://www.doorwaysplus.com/our-prod...cent-fire-seal


Another option is an ES982 (maybe also ES985) from here
http://www.lorientna.com/products/ga...991-and-es982/


I also managed to find a pemco S88D17 smoke seal (to use in addition to the fire seals) on ebay for less than $15 shipped.

[Pope94/IA]

Thanks for the recommendations. I was reading up on the Hagar material. Looks like it reasonably priced. It states that the shelf life is 18 months for the adhesive. I assume when they say shelf life they mean before application. I wouldn't want to replace it every year in a half.