winchester 94 makeover

December 29, 1999, 12:04 PM

Hello George and all,

I recently bought a Win M94, 1950's era in decent condition- some pitting and alot of nuclear gook. I figured I needed a christmas project. Anyway, I've got 2 questions:

I am taking the rifle down to refinish it(suggestions?) and am having a difficult time removing the reciever parts after all screws have been taken out. It's tough to see in the reciever, kinda like that OB-gyn joke

Is there a good book on smithing for this weapon that you can reccommend? I was going to take it to my local smith but would rather do it myself since I am just taking it apart without modifying it.

My second question is where to mount the ashley sights: directly on the bolt or in the scope mount screws. Ashley does not make sights that mount into the existing rear sight notch for some reason on the Win.

BTW I sent my keltecs to Jack Fuselier for nickel plating.

Thanks as always for the advice,

Olazul

George Stringer · December 29, 1999, 11:47 PM

Olazul, I've had real good results bluing the pre-64 94s with both Dicropam IM and Pilkington's Rust Blue. The Rust Blue is easier to use and I think gives a much nicer finish. Min-Wax stains and Tru-Oil will work very well on the stock. Which parts are you having difficulty with? In an older gun, even one full of cosmoline, parts can be rusted in. If rust was present prior to applying the grease, the metal will continue to rust underneath it. I don't know of a really good book on the 94s. AGI has a 2 hour video but I haven't seen it so I don't know how good it is. There is some good information on tuning lever guns in Gunsmithing Tips & Projects. The book and the video are available from Brownells, www.brownells.com. If the Ashley sight fits the scope base holes then that's where I'd mount it but I didn't know that they made a sight for a side mount. George

Harley Nolden · December 30, 1999, 07:53 AM

olazul:
If you would like the break down, disassem with photos I can send them to you by separate email.

HJN

December 30, 1999, 11:50 AM

Thanks George and Harley!

Harley, yes the pics you sent me came out great. They will help a TON!

George- There is not too much rust on the weapon, the gook is not cosmoline, it's whatever accumulates after 40+ years. The part I was having trouble with is getting the lever off the breech bolt. It was tough to see in there but now with Harley's pictures on disassembly this won't even be sporting

(yeah, right)!

Since there is some minor pitting do I have to sandblast before applying the Pilkington's Rust Blue? Also do you reccommend just the stain and oil or should I cover that with spar urethane?

Promise- that was the end of questions for now.

Thanks again for your help

Olazul

George Stringer · December 31, 1999, 06:50 AM

Olazul, if you want a matte finish, bead blast. If you are looking for a shinier finish polish to 400 grit. But, either way, I'd get rid of the pits prior to bluing. They won't show up white as in hot bluing but if left they will show up. The urethane is a personal thing. I don't use it unless specifically requested. But, if you go with the matte finish on the metal you might want to use Tung oil on the stock. I have a lot of customers who want a flat finish on the stock to go along with the matte finish on the metal. 100% tung oil does a great job. George

December 29, 1999, 12:04 PM	#1
olazul Guest Posts: n/a	Hello George and all, I recently bought a Win M94, 1950's era in decent condition- some pitting and alot of nuclear gook. I figured I needed a christmas project. Anyway, I've got 2 questions: I am taking the rifle down to refinish it(suggestions?) and am having a difficult time removing the reciever parts after all screws have been taken out. It's tough to see in the reciever, kinda like that OB-gyn joke Is there a good book on smithing for this weapon that you can reccommend? I was going to take it to my local smith but would rather do it myself since I am just taking it apart without modifying it. My second question is where to mount the ashley sights: directly on the bolt or in the scope mount screws. Ashley does not make sights that mount into the existing rear sight notch for some reason on the Win. BTW I sent my keltecs to Jack Fuselier for nickel plating. Thanks as always for the advice, Olazul

December 29, 1999, 11:47 PM	#2
George Stringer Staff Alumnus Join Date: October 12, 1998 Location: Earlington KY Posts: 2,299	Olazul, I've had real good results bluing the pre-64 94s with both Dicropam IM and Pilkington's Rust Blue. The Rust Blue is easier to use and I think gives a much nicer finish. Min-Wax stains and Tru-Oil will work very well on the stock. Which parts are you having difficulty with? In an older gun, even one full of cosmoline, parts can be rusted in. If rust was present prior to applying the grease, the metal will continue to rust underneath it. I don't know of a really good book on the 94s. AGI has a 2 hour video but I haven't seen it so I don't know how good it is. There is some good information on tuning lever guns in Gunsmithing Tips & Projects. The book and the video are available from Brownells, www.brownells.com. If the Ashley sight fits the scope base holes then that's where I'd mount it but I didn't know that they made a sight for a side mount. George

December 30, 1999, 07:53 AM	#3
Harley Nolden Staff In Memoriam Join Date: January 8, 1999 Location: Brunswick,GA USA Posts: 1,884	olazul: If you would like the break down, disassem with photos I can send them to you by separate email. HJN

December 30, 1999, 11:50 AM	#4
olazul Guest Posts: n/a	Thanks George and Harley! Harley, yes the pics you sent me came out great. They will help a TON! George- There is not too much rust on the weapon, the gook is not cosmoline, it's whatever accumulates after 40+ years. The part I was having trouble with is getting the lever off the breech bolt. It was tough to see in there but now with Harley's pictures on disassembly this won't even be sporting (yeah, right)! Since there is some minor pitting do I have to sandblast before applying the Pilkington's Rust Blue? Also do you reccommend just the stain and oil or should I cover that with spar urethane? Promise- that was the end of questions for now. Thanks again for your help Olazul

December 31, 1999, 06:50 AM	#5
George Stringer Staff Alumnus Join Date: October 12, 1998 Location: Earlington KY Posts: 2,299	Olazul, if you want a matte finish, bead blast. If you are looking for a shinier finish polish to 400 grit. But, either way, I'd get rid of the pits prior to bluing. They won't show up white as in hot bluing but if left they will show up. The urethane is a personal thing. I don't use it unless specifically requested. But, if you go with the matte finish on the metal you might want to use Tung oil on the stock. I have a lot of customers who want a flat finish on the stock to go along with the matte finish on the metal. 100% tung oil does a great job. George