Pitting Removal

target75 · September 5, 2008, 12:13 PM

Hello,

I recently acquired an 870 12ga wingmaster.It's about 15 years old and it has some pitting on both sides of the receiver(about 10-12 little pin heads on both sides). Can this pitting be removed without damaging the finish and how can it be done?

Thanks Tom

Bill DeShivs · September 5, 2008, 01:13 PM

No, it can't. Leave it alone.

ISC · September 5, 2008, 04:11 PM

You can try to hide it, but pitting means that rust removed metal. There is no way to addd metal short of electroplating or welding, which wouldn't do what you want in this case.

You could fill the holes with putty and paint the entire weapon afterwards, but that would be purely cosmetic and I wouldn't do it if I were you.

RetiredLawman · September 5, 2008, 04:28 PM

Take a penny and scrape the rust off. The copper is softer than the steel and won't harm it. Then use 0000 steel wool to complete the job and smooth the rough edges some. Buy a blueing pencil at your nearest gun shop. The pitting will still show but it won't be as noticeable.

zippy13 · September 5, 2008, 07:04 PM

For blue and in-the-white engraved surfaces, I use Flitz polish sparingly. You could give it a try starting in an unexposed area. But, there's no magic cure for corrosion damage. Of course, there's always a cheat: Stop the rust and then put a name tag or race gun sticker over the offending area. I'm crazy enough that I might put p-gun stickers on a 870; but, I might make changes to see if anyone notices.

TxGun · September 5, 2008, 07:10 PM

A bead-blast & blue refinish can sometimes hide some of the pitting. Or you could parkerize it. That would hide some of it. But it won't look like a Wingmaster anymore. It will look more like an Express or one of the Police models. In any case, you still may see some of the pits, unless they are very small. Ask a competent gunsmith/refinisher and see what he thinks about your case.

target75 · September 6, 2008, 11:19 AM

Thanks guys for the info. Except for the pitting this wingmaster is in pretty good shape,so I think I'll just leave it alone.

Thanks Tom

mikenbarb · September 6, 2008, 01:58 PM

Go to Brownells and get a cerama coating kit. I will put a thin layer of ceramic finish on the gun hiding the pitting and it will look good also. BUT, It will have a duller finish and wont be shiney like the Wingmasters blueing. I would recommend this over the others mentioned because its also weather proof and tough as nails. If your using it for a hunting gun and not worried about having the original blued steel look, Go for it! I did one of my 1100's with it and I love the way it looks and holds up to the weather.

Bill DeShivs · September 6, 2008, 06:18 PM

Mikenbarb
Ceramacoat is not ceramic. It is just good paint.

kraigwy · September 7, 2008, 10:16 AM

Piting can easily be removed by draw filing, it will not screw up any of the lettering if done properly keeping the file flat. Use only as course file as needed, switching to finer files. Then draw file using fine grit emery paper on the file. Depending on how much time and effort you put into it, you can get a mirror finish that exceeds the polish of a factory gun. Then of course the gun needs to be thrown into a bluing tank.

If you dont think you can do it, then take it to a good gunsmith and have it polished (drawfilled) and re-blued.

RoscoeC · September 7, 2008, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Piting can easily be removed by draw filing, it will not screw up any of the lettering if done properly keeping the file flat. Use only as course file as needed, switching to finer files. Then draw file using fine grit emery paper on the file. Depending on how much time and effort you put into it, you can get a mirror finish that exceeds the polish of a factory gun. Then of course the gun needs to be thrown into a bluing tank.

Finally, the right answer.

mikenbarb · September 7, 2008, 11:17 AM

+1 Bill. I didnt realize that and thought with the baking process there was a ceramic base powder to it to make it tougher. Why is it called cerama coat? I dont get it.

Bill DeShivs · September 7, 2008, 01:29 PM

It may have some powder in it, but the base is paint. A chain is only as strong as it's weakest link. I'm sure the "ceramic" or whatever it is adds abrasion resistance.

TxGun · September 7, 2008, 03:30 PM

Piting can easily be removed by draw filing, it will not screw up any of the lettering if done properly keeping the file flat. Use only as course file as needed, switching to finer files. Then draw file using fine grit emery paper on the file. Depending on how much time and effort you put into it, you can get a mirror finish that exceeds the polish of a factory gun. Then of course the gun needs to be thrown into a bluing tank.

If you dont think you can do it, then take it to a good gunsmith and have it polished (drawfilled) and re-blued.
__________________

Sometimes, not always. Depends entirely on how deep the pits are, and where they are. I work part-time in a friend's gunshop and he has a good gunsmith/refinishing service. We have guns come in that have pitting so deep that realistically, they can't be filed out without taking away far too much metal. Heck, I've seen pitting at least as deep as the lettering on some guns and that's not all that rare.

Bill DeShivs · September 7, 2008, 04:47 PM

Roscoe
My answer to the original poster was correct.

mikenbarb · September 7, 2008, 07:05 PM

+1 Bill. He's right. Just leave it be.

RoscoeC · September 7, 2008, 07:25 PM

Sorry, Bill, I don't want to start a contentious exchange, but why in the world would you think that slight pits cannot be removed? They clearly can, I have done it, and the technique that kraigwy describes is exactly right.

Granted, Target75 DID say "without damaging the finish", and the draw filing technique would require re-blueing, but if one wants to remove pits this is the way, and the Wingmaster certainly has plenty of material to accomplish this without compromising the safety or functionality in any way.

This technique may be beyond the capability of some, but that is their decision to make.

I'm not saying that leaving it be isn't a good option, but if you want to remove pits the only way to accomplish this is via stock removal, and draw filing is a good way to do it without any special equipment. It is accomplished slowly, and is very controllable. The results can be, as pointed out by TxGun, very good.

I always enjoy reading your posts, and you are clearly knowledgeable, but this one kind of puzzles me.

Bill DeShivs · September 7, 2008, 07:31 PM

" Can this pitting be removed without damaging the finish and how can it be done?"
The OP didn't ask for a dissertation on refinishing. He asked a simple question and I answered it. He wanted to know if there was some way to do the impossible.
Certainly, there are various methods for refinishing guns and removing pits-but that's not what he asked. Draw filing is a good way to lower the surface below the pits, as is belt grinding. But I digress-that is not the question asked.

qwik · September 7, 2008, 07:56 PM

This is good information , may just have to give this a try on one of my oldies first , thanks

TxGun · September 7, 2008, 09:24 PM

Really, the best answer remains take it to someone experienced, with a good reputation, and get a professional opinion. Not saying there isn't a lot of knowledge here on this forum...there clearly is. But no one can really give you the best advice without the gun in hand to examine. Ask around and you'll find someone around you who is qualified.

September 5, 2008, 12:13 PM	#1
target75 Junior Member Join Date: July 22, 2008 Posts: 7	Pitting Removal Hello, I recently acquired an 870 12ga wingmaster.It's about 15 years old and it has some pitting on both sides of the receiver(about 10-12 little pin heads on both sides). Can this pitting be removed without damaging the finish and how can it be done? Thanks Tom

September 5, 2008, 01:13 PM	#2
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,985	No, it can't. Leave it alone. __________________ Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler www.billdeshivs.com

September 5, 2008, 07:04 PM	#5
zippy13 Senior Member Join Date: August 23, 2008 Location: SoCal Posts: 6,442	Flitz For blue and in-the-white engraved surfaces, I use Flitz polish sparingly. You could give it a try starting in an unexposed area. But, there's no magic cure for corrosion damage. Of course, there's always a cheat: Stop the rust and then put a name tag or race gun sticker over the offending area. I'm crazy enough that I might put p-gun stickers on a 870; but, I might make changes to see if anyone notices.

September 6, 2008, 01:58 PM	#8
mikenbarb Senior Member Join Date: October 10, 2007 Location: N.J. Posts: 1,111	Cerama coat it. Go to Brownells and get a cerama coating kit. I will put a thin layer of ceramic finish on the gun hiding the pitting and it will look good also. BUT, It will have a duller finish and wont be shiney like the Wingmasters blueing. I would recommend this over the others mentioned because its also weather proof and tough as nails. If your using it for a hunting gun and not worried about having the original blued steel look, Go for it! I did one of my 1100's with it and I love the way it looks and holds up to the weather. __________________ Mike B. Gun control= Being able to hit your target. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/pifinnercircle

September 6, 2008, 06:18 PM	#9
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,985	Mikenbarb Ceramacoat is not ceramic. It is just good paint. __________________ Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler www.billdeshivs.com

September 5, 2008, 04:11 PM	#3
ISC Junior member Join Date: August 5, 2007 Location: Florida Posts: 1,982	You can try to hide it, but pitting means that rust removed metal. There is no way to addd metal short of electroplating or welding, which wouldn't do what you want in this case. You could fill the holes with putty and paint the entire weapon afterwards, but that would be purely cosmetic and I wouldn't do it if I were you.

September 5, 2008, 04:28 PM	#4
RetiredLawman Senior Member Join Date: March 31, 2008 Posts: 133	Take a penny and scrape the rust off. The copper is softer than the steel and won't harm it. Then use 0000 steel wool to complete the job and smooth the rough edges some. Buy a blueing pencil at your nearest gun shop. The pitting will still show but it won't be as noticeable.

September 5, 2008, 07:10 PM	#6
TxGun Senior Member Join Date: April 14, 2008 Location: Family ranch - Central TX. Posts: 467	A bead-blast & blue refinish can sometimes hide some of the pitting. Or you could parkerize it. That would hide some of it. But it won't look like a Wingmaster anymore. It will look more like an Express or one of the Police models. In any case, you still may see some of the pits, unless they are very small. Ask a competent gunsmith/refinisher and see what he thinks about your case.

September 6, 2008, 11:19 AM	#7
target75 Junior Member Join Date: July 22, 2008 Posts: 7	Thanks guys for the info. Except for the pitting this wingmaster is in pretty good shape,so I think I'll just leave it alone. Thanks Tom

September 7, 2008, 10:16 AM	#10
kraigwy Senior Member Join Date: June 16, 2008 Location: Wyoming Posts: 11,061	Piting can easily be removed by draw filing, it will not screw up any of the lettering if done properly keeping the file flat. Use only as course file as needed, switching to finer files. Then draw file using fine grit emery paper on the file. Depending on how much time and effort you put into it, you can get a mirror finish that exceeds the polish of a factory gun. Then of course the gun needs to be thrown into a bluing tank. If you dont think you can do it, then take it to a good gunsmith and have it polished (drawfilled) and re-blued. __________________ Kraig Stuart CPT USAR Ret USAMU Sniper School Distinguished Rifle Badge 1071

September 7, 2008, 11:17 AM	#12
mikenbarb Senior Member Join Date: October 10, 2007 Location: N.J. Posts: 1,111	+1 Bill. I didnt realize that and thought with the baking process there was a ceramic base powder to it to make it tougher. Why is it called cerama coat? I dont get it. __________________ Mike B. Gun control= Being able to hit your target. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/pifinnercircle

September 7, 2008, 01:29 PM	#13
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,985	It may have some powder in it, but the base is paint. A chain is only as strong as it's weakest link. I'm sure the "ceramic" or whatever it is adds abrasion resistance. __________________ Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler www.billdeshivs.com

September 7, 2008, 03:30 PM	#14
TxGun Senior Member Join Date: April 14, 2008 Location: Family ranch - Central TX. Posts: 467	Piting can easily be removed by draw filing, it will not screw up any of the lettering if done properly keeping the file flat. Use only as course file as needed, switching to finer files. Then draw file using fine grit emery paper on the file. Depending on how much time and effort you put into it, you can get a mirror finish that exceeds the polish of a factory gun. Then of course the gun needs to be thrown into a bluing tank. If you dont think you can do it, then take it to a good gunsmith and have it polished (drawfilled) and re-blued. __________________ Sometimes, not always. Depends entirely on how deep the pits are, and where they are. I work part-time in a friend's gunshop and he has a good gunsmith/refinishing service. We have guns come in that have pitting so deep that realistically, they can't be filed out without taking away far too much metal. Heck, I've seen pitting at least as deep as the lettering on some guns and that's not all that rare.

September 7, 2008, 04:47 PM	#15
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,985	Roscoe My answer to the original poster was correct. __________________ Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler www.billdeshivs.com

September 7, 2008, 07:05 PM	#16
mikenbarb Senior Member Join Date: October 10, 2007 Location: N.J. Posts: 1,111	+1 Bill. He's right. Just leave it be. __________________ Mike B. Gun control= Being able to hit your target. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/pifinnercircle

September 7, 2008, 07:25 PM	#17
RoscoeC Senior Member Join Date: February 21, 2006 Location: DFW Metromess Posts: 562	Sorry, Bill, I don't want to start a contentious exchange, but why in the world would you think that slight pits cannot be removed? They clearly can, I have done it, and the technique that kraigwy describes is exactly right. Granted, Target75 DID say "without damaging the finish", and the draw filing technique would require re-blueing, but if one wants to remove pits this is the way, and the Wingmaster certainly has plenty of material to accomplish this without compromising the safety or functionality in any way. This technique may be beyond the capability of some, but that is their decision to make. I'm not saying that leaving it be isn't a good option, but if you want to remove pits the only way to accomplish this is via stock removal, and draw filing is a good way to do it without any special equipment. It is accomplished slowly, and is very controllable. The results can be, as pointed out by TxGun, very good. I always enjoy reading your posts, and you are clearly knowledgeable, but this one kind of puzzles me. __________________ “Life is either a daring adventure or nothing." --Helen Keller "Do not cry havoc when you should but hunt with modest warrant." --William Shakespeare Glock Certified Armorer NRA Life Member

September 7, 2008, 07:31 PM	#18
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,985	" Can this pitting be removed without damaging the finish and how can it be done?" The OP didn't ask for a dissertation on refinishing. He asked a simple question and I answered it. He wanted to know if there was some way to do the impossible. Certainly, there are various methods for refinishing guns and removing pits-but that's not what he asked. Draw filing is a good way to lower the surface below the pits, as is belt grinding. But I digress-that is not the question asked. __________________ Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler www.billdeshivs.com

September 7, 2008, 07:56 PM	#19
qwik Senior Member Join Date: May 22, 2004 Location: nc Posts: 152	Thanks This is good information , may just have to give this a try on one of my oldies first , thanks __________________ havejeepwilltravel [0lllllll0]

September 7, 2008, 09:24 PM	#20
TxGun Senior Member Join Date: April 14, 2008 Location: Family ranch - Central TX. Posts: 467	Really, the best answer remains take it to someone experienced, with a good reputation, and get a professional opinion. Not saying there isn't a lot of knowledge here on this forum...there clearly is. But no one can really give you the best advice without the gun in hand to examine. Ask around and you'll find someone around you who is qualified.