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September 24, 2001, 07:20 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: August 29, 1999
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Sig P Series - Mainspring Seat Removal
Well, I finally got around to getting some reduced power mainsprings for my P228 the other day and decided to install one to test the trigger pull.
HOLY SMOKE! It must take an act of God to get the mainspring seat pushed all the way out to disassemble the mainspring strut and replace the mainspring. Does anyone have any tips on getting this thing all the way out without insulting women and small animals in the next neighborhood with my screams and rude language? Thanks |
September 25, 2001, 12:16 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: March 12, 2000
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There are two different mainspring/seat assemblies. Not sure which you've got. Obligatory caveat: make sure the pistol is clear, magazine and chamber, before working on it; then repeat.
The newer one isn't too bad, so it probably isn't what you've got -- but FWIW, all you need is an appropriately sized screwdriver to push the plastic seat upwards and outwards. The benefit of that design -- the only benefit I can think of -- is that you can easily swap mainsprings. You probably have the older style. Changing this is a fairly big PITA. There's a special tool that SIG and Brownells sell that makes step #1 a little easier, but you don't need it. 1. Use a screwdriver or the SIG tool to CAREFULLY push the metal seat upwards and outwards so it slips over and out from the retaining lug on the lower rear of the frame. 2. Using at least three hands, compress the mainspring enough to capture it in a position that gives you access to the roll pin in the hammer strut. I use a small pair of needlenose ViseGrips. It's probably not the factory method, but it works. Actually, if you are lucky or skilled, or both, you can probably clamp the hammer strut in a padded vise and use just two hands. 3. Drive the roll pin out. CAREFULLY (and maybe in a plastic bag) release the ViseGrips). Wear eye protection and be careful not to have small parts disappearig under furniture where even the cat can't find them. 4. Replace the mainspring and reverse the process above. The process of compressing the mainspring and the seat (make SURE you get it on facing the correct direction!) is another PITA. I think that's the way I've done this. There probably are better ways, and it's possible that I'm forgetting something, but I don't think so -- I've done this a bunch of times, swapping the new plastic parts for the old-style metal parts. |
September 25, 2001, 09:44 PM | #3 |
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Thanks. Looks like this one is plastic. I thought that the ones with plastic had to use a different mainspring? Or am I mistaken?
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September 26, 2001, 09:19 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: August 29, 1999
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I found the answer to my own question regarding the different mainsprings with regards to the different mainspring seats.
The original metal seat is designed for heavier weight mainsprings with 25 pounds being stock. The new plastic mainspring seats are designed to accomodate a factory spring of 21 pounds. Lighter springs from Wolff will work with either old or new design, but the lighter springs may result in misfires with the old mainspring seat design. Heavier than 21 pounds with the new mainspring seat are not recommended by Sig. The above information is from Sig. FYI |
September 27, 2001, 11:08 PM | #5 |
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Fwiw (and for future reference) when changing out the hammer spring in the old style pistols (non-plastic spring seat), remove the roll pin from the hammer strut while the assembly is still in the pistol. This way there is no tension on the pin from the spring. Just be careful when slipping the assy out of the frame tabs. It can be done w/out losing any parts (or an eye)
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September 29, 2001, 08:13 PM | #6 |
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Thank you, Chris! Do you support the hammer strut at all when driving the roll pin out? I am trying to visualize it in my mind and I'm thinking it's supported only at the hammer end and where the strut goes through the mainspring seat.
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September 30, 2001, 12:38 AM | #7 |
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Location: Utah
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I use needle-nose pliers to remove the pin. Place one tip of the pliers on an end of the pin, and the other tip on the strut. Sort of a mini-press. From there (one end of the pin will now be flush with the strut) you can just pull the pin out with the pliers.
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September 30, 2001, 06:04 PM | #8 |
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Got it! Great idea.
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