Greasing Sig Sauer Rails...

[BILLG]

Heres what Sig has to say about it.

https://www.sigsauer.com/CustomerSer...nceGuides.aspx

[Roland Thunder]

Shooters Choice is another good grease to use

[Noreaster]

I have spent allot of time training at the Sig Academy over the last ten years and the term "wet" is how SIG describes the proper way to run the gun. Not just throwing lube and grease everywhere but where it's needed like the rails, outside of barrel, shiny spots... Light oils like Rem oil run off easy and don't hold up to the first three mags, CLP is better and TW25b is much better. This is during hard training where your shooting 300-500 rounds a day or 1,000-1500 rounds a week and really heating the gun up. You can shoot your Sig dry but it won't hold up as well and it could be more prone to failure. There is a big difference between someone going to a static range and shooting a box or two slowly and someone training or shooting IDPA/USPSA running the gun hard all day and going through a couple of hundred rounds when the gun is hot. Thats not to say that the guy shooting 50 rds slow fire at the local gun club shouldn't lube the pistol, but it's not as critical.

[mes228]

No expert here on lube but I must take exception with the comment on RemOil. My experience differs quite a bit. I've fired MANY sessions of 300 rounds ++ with RemOil as part of the lube. I use only RemOil and Sentry Hi-Slip Grease as lubricants. Long after the visible appearance of Rem Oil is gone the lube properties still remain. With this combo you can fire any weapon I've owned until it is too hot to touch.

Probably until the gun MELTS as Sentry lubes up to about 700 degrees and down to minus 65 degrees without thickening. The Teflon in RemOil is not a gimmick - it works even dry and if the arm is stored for years (I've gone 2 years and they run as if lubed 15 minuets ago). Just this week we had guest visiting us and I took them shooting. I supplied three .22 rifles (2 Bolt actions and a Ruger 10/22 Target Semi all not lubed for approx a year). All ran as lubed. I would no longer think of running a alloy frame pistol with out this combo (for galling prevention). Just my opinion but it's based on experience and a lot of use. Most anything will work as a lube for the general firearm user. However the RemOil/Sentry Hi-Slip Grease works under any condition on earth. Even under water (won't wash off) that's why the Military approves it for Seal/Spec Force use. Try it and you may find this combo simply works.

[RC20]

You obviously do not like the TWB-25, but that does not mean its crap, and yes I have shot it at temperatures well below 32 deg just fine. Apparently you are not aware that the benefit of synthetic products is they do not get goey (viscous if you are a tech type) at low temperatures, thats why they work in Northern Climes so well in car.

It not intended as an oil, so if you are using as rust protection by rubbing it all over the gun then that indeed is incorrect. Its a grease and intended to be put on the moving parts and stay there (thats why we have grease). I agree with Sig on that, though repeated application of oil has ensured that guns run fine as well.

In reality, being a grease it does make it impossible to get into the trigger area unless you dissemble. I use it on the rails and I use the synthetic spray to get down into the firing group.

Maybe Sig does not deal with this as well as they should (issue a grease and an oil) or describe the way to use it but its not exactly hard to figure out either.

And maybe they should issue an oil as an oil is both easier to understand and apply.

Its very good stuff when used as intended, just like many things. You aren't going to race your Priius at the Indy 500!

Can't overlube a metal gun.

I usually get my steel and alloy Sigs as wet as my 1911s. I use Slip 2000 EWL and get it into the hammer and trigger--places rust can hide.

I also put lube all over the barrel, even if there's no bushing, it still cycles more smoothly.

The TWP-25 crap that comes with most Sigs is garbage. It stays where you put it and is a crud magnet. It also gets extra thick when it's at or below freezing outside.

All Sig manuals say that you should lubricate sparingly. I disagree with that and get the rails soaked with lube then wipe off the rest with a cloth.

The P238 is very similar to the Mustang and that one is meant to run wet.

I maintain that TWP-25 is too thick for Sigs, and only good for storage--since it literally stays where you put it.

I have had half of a dozen non-1911 Sigs over the years, and have always kept them well-lubed. I don't see how they would be different from any other metal gun with full-length rails in terms of how much you should use.

[Tactical Jackalope]

TW-25 is fine for me. In this sweaty humid city. It's never failed me, even when I ran 1,000 rounds in one day with my buddy through my SIG P226 Held up like a champ.

I run that thing like a buttered turkey!

[thedudeabides]

I just hadn't had good luck with TWP. I use Slip 2000 EWL on my 1911s and metal frame Sigs. It gets in everywhere and doesn't burn off like CLP. My biggest problem with TWP is that it's just so thick and goopy and traps gunk, I feel like it's more of a grinding paste than lubricant.

It also turns to a white crud when it dries and gets all over rubber grips and plastic parts.

I've never had good luck with it. It thickened up and caused my P220 to FTRTFB repeatedly on a cold Colorado morning at 19F. That's pretty much when I switched to EWL.

I just use CLP to clean and de-gunk at this point.

[DMZX]

I have had a tube of Pachmayr gun grease laying around. I have been using it, albeit sparingly, on the rails of my SR9. Think I will try it on the SIG.

[pat701]

Can't overlube a metal gun.
Like an AR-15 run it wet.