October 21, 2007, 06:24 AM | #1 |
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6.5 x 55 Swede
Thought I would post this here in hope's of some good information on this problem. I worked up a few loads for a new rifle and finally got out to the range only to find that the firing pin didn't hit the winchester primer hard enough to make it go bang. Has anyone else had this problem, guess I need to put a stronger spring in the swede to make it hit the primer with more force or find a primer that's softer so the spring thats in it will work.
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October 21, 2007, 08:56 AM | #2 |
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If this is an old surplus firearm, like a Swedish mod. 96,before going any further, have your headspace checked. Some of the old swedes could possibly have such excessive headspace that the cartridge could be far enough forward to not to get a sufficient firing pin strike. Other factors that could also contribute might be, new brass, deep primer pockets, a light firing pin spring, or a worn firing pin. Also, years back, brand new surplus barrels were available for the swedes. If installed out in the garage, they usually would provide dangerously excessive headspace. A trip to gunsmith could easily correct that problem. Getting a weapon to fire with excess headspace usually results in ruptured cases,separation is typically just forward of the case head.
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October 21, 2007, 09:00 AM | #3 |
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I use CCI # 34 primers, (they are military spec. ) and are harder that nomal primers
I use them in 30-06 and 308 (M1 and M1A) and tried them in all aplications for large rifle primers, (to reduce my inventory) I have had no problems in my 6.5X55 Sweeds ( or 8X57, 303, 7.62X54R, 30-06, 308) Do you have the same problem with factory ammo ? Things to check Ammo-- Are primer pockets clean ? (carbon in the pocket will prevent the primer from fully seating) Are primers fully seated ? ( should be 3 to 7 thou. below case head) Rifle-- Head space, (excesive head space with worn parts can cause problems) Bent, damaged or wear on fireing pin Fireing pin protrusion Carbon on fireing pin Carbon in fireing pin area of bolt (Fireing pin not getting full travel or binding) Weak fireing pin spring |
October 21, 2007, 01:11 PM | #4 |
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Good info above.
Another problem I have seen on mil surp Sweeds was that the bolt had been cleaned and had not been reassembled properly. Usually the bolt was one turn short of being put together and reesulted in no/light firing pin strike.
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October 21, 2007, 04:28 PM | #5 |
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Thanks for all the kind help in this matter. Just took a good look at the brass and found that the primer pockets are a bit deep on some of it and okay in some so decide to fire some primed case's to see and sure enough some fire okay and the deeper ones do not. I ordered Norma brass for this project new from Midway for the first time and now find the pockets to deep. I feel sure Midway will take them back but now I wish I had good old Winchester brass as I havent had this problem using Winchester in the past. Guess I will start from scratch with some new brass and in the mean time check the head space if I can come up with gauges.
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October 21, 2007, 10:01 PM | #6 |
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If you have or know somebody with a headspace measuring tool for brass (RCBS Precision Mic, Hornady (formerly Stoney Point) case gauge, etc.), check one of your once-fired cases against the new brass. As suggested, it will probably turn out to be more than just the normal 4-10 thousandths longer. This means the cartridge is so loose in the chamber it is being thrown farther forward than the firing pin can quite reach. This situation can be corrected, or you can use some more sensitive primers, like Federal, to get the cases to fireform, then set your sizing die up not to push the shoulder back all the way, but just enough to chamber easily. The cases are then married to that one gun.
The other thing I would do is a complete disassembly and detail cleaning of the bolt. My K38 Swede came so heavily packed in grease I was amazed it functioned at all.
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October 22, 2007, 06:27 PM | #7 |
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Swede is shooting great now
I had a bit of time today so I dug into the swede trying to find out what my problems were. Started out by taking the bolt all the way down and inspecting every bit of it, looking for any problems at the same time. All of it checked out so put it back together and found that the bolt did not fully go the 90 deg needed because the bolt was touching the stock. Altered the stock for bolt clearance and that took care of the issue I had with it. After doing all this I burrowed a go and no-go gauge set and checked the head space which was fine.
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