Equipment to Reload for Garand

[michaeld1004]

I am looking to start reloading 30-06 for my M1. I would like to load accurate ammo for NRA Highpower competition. Since I live in SoCal, I cannot use the Greek ammo from CMP (magnetic bullets aren't allowed due to fire danger). Since I will be loading low volume (300-500 rounds per month), I plan on using a single-stage press. Eventually, I will add a Dillon XL650 for pistol loading.

Here is a list of equipment I plan to purchase. I prefer to buy quality equipment and spend the money where needed. I would appreciate your advice if I am missing something, if I don't need something, or if your experience suggests I should swap to a different product.

Lee Classic Cast Single-Stage Press
Hornandy L'N'L Die Conversion Bushing Kit
RCBS 2-Die Set
Hornady Sure-Lock Die Locking Rings
Lee Universal Depriming & Decapping Die
RCBS Shellholder #3
RCBS Model 505 Magnetic Powder Scale
Redding Match Grade 3BR Powder Measure w/Universal Metering Chamber
Sierra 5th Edition Reloading Manual
RCBS Universal Hand Priming Tool
RCBS Trim Pro Manual Case Trimmer Kit
RCBS Trim Pro 3-Way Cutter
RCBS Trim Pro Power Drill Converter
RCBS Primer Pocket Brush Combo
Lyman Flash Hole Uniformer Tool
Sinclair 8000 Series Primer Pocket Uniformer
RCBS Precision Mic 30-06
Frankford Arsenal 6" Electronic Caliper
Hornady Impact Bullet Puller
Hornady Cam-Lock Bullet Puller & Collet
RCBS Nylon Neck Brush & Case Lube
Imperial Case Sizing Wax
Reloading Tray
Ammo Boxes

Thank You in advance for your help!

-Mike D.

[Loader9]

Of the things I would change:
I'd look for a good used RCBS Rockchucker press.
Use the RCBS shell holder especially if you are going to use the RCBS priming tool- it requires the RCBS holder. But I'd also use the Lee Autoprime tool instead but you'll have to buy shell holders that fit only the Autoprime. Skip the electronic calipiers. Get a dial unit and you won't be looking for batteries. I don't care for the FA neck lubricator. I use the RCBS neck brushes.

Any suggestions given here are going to be based mostly on opinions and experiences with specific tools. What I like you might not like. That's why I usually try to get first time reloaders to buy used equipment. It doesn't cost much and if you are buying RCBS it's warranted for life. There are usually great deals at gun shows and you can also watch the local paper as some folks buy new and then decide reloading isn't for them. So you can pick up virtually new equipment for pennies on the dollar.

[crowbeaner]

A couple things you might want to do are:
A) Use the same brand shell holder as your dies. This eliminates any machining and mfg. variances between the contact between the shellholder and die mouth.
B)Use small base RCBS dies to ensure that your reloads will function with no chambering and/or extraction difficulties.
C) Uniform your primer pocket depth with a tool by Lyman or Sinclair. This is a slow and tedious task but it insures that the primers are all seated to the same depth, and to the bottom of the pockets. High primers and the M1 are NOT a good idea. Uniform the flash holes to insure the same primer flash column every time.
D) Use medium burning rate powders to be sure that the port pressure is correct for the Garand. Heavier than recommended loads can bend the op-rod and cost you for replacement and repairs.
E) Use the CCI military primers for your reloads. They have a thicker cup to withstand the slamming of the bolt on the M1.
F) Use the same type/ headstamp of brass to minimize the weight difference between brands and mfgs.

I use LC 67,68,and 69 brass that has been treated to all of the above abuses before loading. I shoot 48.0 of WW 748 and a 150 grain flatbase M2 bullet, or 46.0 of IMR 4895 and 47.0 of H 4895 for most of my shooting. My knees and ankles don't permit me to shoot the high power course of fire any more (too old and frail) but these things helped me most with qualifying fire. Hope this helps. CB.

[firewrench044]

reloading trays (they hold the cases in upright position) (I prefer the ones that hold 50 rounds)
Plastic ammo boxes (I use the ones that hold 50 rounds)

[BigJakeJ1s]

The Lee Classic Cast press is an excellent choice, particularly for the price. The Forster Co-Ax is best of breed in single stage presses, but almost 3X the price. No need for Hornady LNL adapters with the co-ax, but they work very well with traditional presses.

Your chosen RCBS Universal hand primer has a universal shell holder which does not require cartridge specific shell holders. I highly recommend it.

Before I got my co-ax, I had standardized on RCBS shell holders (the co-ax has universal jaws instead). The couple of Lee shell holders that I got with die sets lacked a bit in the fit/finish department, but were functional.

I like the rugged simplicity (and price) of the L.E. Wilson trimmer setup. They offer a power adapter too. No three way cutter though... Optional Sinclair micrometer adjustment is nice but not necessary. The Lee system is also simple, effective and even less inexpensive, but not adjustable.

I would get Hornady or Forster lock rings for the dies. They have clamping action which is more secure and accurate than a set screw.

I highly recommend the Hornady cam-lock bullet puller (mounts on the press like a die), with appropriate caliber collet.

I've had the FA digital calipers for several years, running on the spare battery that came with it. The installed battery was DOA, but the spare is still ticking. Works great at a price that can't be beat.

Other things you might want include a tumbler to clean your dirty brass. Cheap units from Midway or Cabelas work fine. Get a universal depriming die (Lee's has a better reputation, but my RCBS has worked well for me), to remove primers from dirty brass without resizing.

When you get around to looking at progressive presses, don't overlook the Hornady LNL AP.

Andy

[rg1]

I too recommend a primer pocket uniformer. Possum Hollow has one for about $23 and it has large and small cutters. It's a hand tool but works great. It squares the bottom of the pocket and uniforms the depth. Also cleans the primer pocket after firing. Only have to uniform once.http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=445053
I have never had any luck with the mica case neck lubricators especially in a long neck like on the 30-06. The RCBS nylon neck brushes with a little lube will work much better. Just a little case lube on the brush will lube the inside of several cases. Comes in different sizes for calibers. I also recommend a Vibratory Case tumbler for cleaning dirty brass and for removing case lube after sizing.
Regular sizing dies work fine for the Garand. A RCBS Precision Mic or Hornady( Stony Point) Cartridge Headspace Gage set is needed. Garands can have long chambers and you don't need to resize the shoulder back to zero every firing and you need to be able to measure the cases to adjust your die. Plus the Garand is hard on extractor rims. I use a small smooth file to remove nicks and burrs on the rim and case head.

[michaeld1004]

Thanks for all the input!!

I updated the list to add a few things and swap some out.
I am still looking into tumblers, but for now I can use my neighbors'.
Is there a benefit the purchasing the RCBS Rock Chucker over the Lee Cast?
What about the Powder Measure I selected?

As far as components, I plan on using IMR4895, CCI #34 primers, LC69 brass (from GIBrass.com - with crimp removed) and either 150 gr SMK HPBT or 155 gr SMK Palma HPBT bullets.

Thanks again! I prefer to get it right the first time!

-Mike D.

[Tim R]

Primer pocket uniformer is the best money spent. I have the Possum Hollow as well.

A small base die is not needed.

I have had better luck with IMR 4064 in a '06 M-1. Varget may be worth a try.

Regular CCI's work very well. The CCI BR primers are worth a try. Might even try Remington's. I always go back to reg. CCI's though.

I use RCBS case lube 2 on a case lube pad. It wipes off with a damp rag. If I need to lube a case mouth I put a small amount of case lube in a pool and dip the mouth in it. Only need to lube about every 3rd to 5th case mouth.

I use a Forster trimmer. A couple of cranks on the handle and your done.

I have had good luck with the 155's out of a '06 M-1. The 168's don't seem to fly as good.

[kraigwy]

The only thing I would add is a Wilson Case gage, about 20 bucks from Midway.

Loading for semi's require the shoulder be set back to factory specks as they stretch as the bolt starts pulling it out while the chamber pressure is still building up.

The gage is simple to use. Just size the case, run it through the gage and make sure its flush. Once you get you sizing die set up to make the case fit the gage, just lock her down and you're good to go.

Excessive lenght (I'm not just talking about neck length which the gage also measures) but the shoulder to base length. HEADSPACE. If its excessive it can fail to chamber, fail to extract, and worse yet SLAM FIRES.

Ive seen Garands and M1As totally destroyed by slam fires.

Besides a properly sized case would be more accurate.

[frank505]

the rcbs precision mic is your new best friend and will keep you out of trouble and keep you from breaking your garand. one of our shooters had a slam fire in his 308 garand, bruised his right hand pretty good and did break the rifle beyond repair. he had had trouble all during the match with failures to close and extraction failures, all pointing to a cartridge that was not sized correctly, the shoulder was not pushed back to several thousands below what the chamber measures. The type of sizing lube and the quantity on the case will have an effect on the amount the shoulder is pushed back.

[BigJakeJ1s]

Is there a benefit the purchasing the RCBS Rock Chucker over the Lee Cast?

Pro RCBS RC:
Better warranty

Pro Lee Classic Cast:
Larger diameter ram
Through-the-ram spent primer/debris handling via tube to bucket below
Adjustable length of handle
Adjustable swing of handle
Cast and machined in USA

Andy

[Mike1]

I don't think the Hornady L-N-L kit will work with the presses you're looking at.

The Rockchucker is a great press (have one on my bench), but also consider Lee or someone's turret press.

Get more books! Such as Lyman #49, Speer, Lee, Hornady, etc.

Buy components in bulk.

If you have a really accurate rifle, get the competition dies from RCBS or other.

Mike

[BigJakeJ1s]

Mike1 wrote,

I don't think the Hornady L-N-L kit will work with the presses you're looking at.

From Hornady's website,

Simply insert a Hornady bushing into your RCBS® Rock Chucker or other reloading press using a 1-1/4-12 thread, and you’re ready to take advantage of Hornady’s Lock-N-Load technology.

From Lee's Classic Cast press web page,

Threaded die adapter accepts standard 7/8 - 14 dies, remove and the press accepts 1 1/4 - 12 large series dies.

You simply remove the Lee threaded die adapter, insert the LNL bushing, and you're good to go.

Andy

[Unclenick]

The Lee Classic Cast is probably the best value for the dollar. The RCBS Rockchucker is cast iron and their customer service will always replace a broken one (rare), but the Lee is investment cast steel from salvaged train rails and is a stronger material to start with. Lee also takes pretty good care of its customers. You won't get hurt with either, but I think there are some features of the newer Lee design that make it a tad more versatile. I just added one to my own bench for some odd chores and for bigger cases. That despite owning the Co-ax press and a couple of different Dillons and a little Challenger press and a couple of the Lee hand tools for the range load development box.

The Forster Co-ax press, if you can afford it, is king for match ammo. More national match winners load on the Co-ax than any other press. It lets you change dies in the time it takes to stroke the handle once, and floats them so the die and cartridge cases self-align in operation. Additionally, the Co-ax primer seating system (built into the Co-ax press at the top, or available as a separate tube fed tool) is the only one on the market that terminates seating when the primer is a fixed 0.004" below flush with face of the casehead. For floating firing pin semi-automatic military rifles that is ideal and most likely to discourage slam-fires. A benchrest shooter will argue that system doesn't produce as exactly consistent an ignition characteristic as seating to feel the anvil touch down, but we are not talking about shooting a tenth of an M.O.A. here. It won't be noticeable in the Garand and is safer.

A couple of other items for you to note: Hornady's loading manual includes a separate .30-06 section just for Garands which limits the loads and powder to those appropriate to the gas system so you don't bend the op-rod with overpressure. Sierra's manual has about 17 pages in the front on loading for gas guns in general, which is worth a read, but the Hornady information is more immediately useful for what you are wanting to do.

The M1 Garand gets its name because it was the Garand rifle design (there were others) for M1 ball ammunition, which developed and stockpiled between the World Wars, but was declared obsolete during WWII. However, the M72 match ammunition loaded for the Army and the old DCM program was designed to be similar to it. Nominally this was a 172 grain FMJ boattail bullet. Despite its name, the actual weight spec for the bullet was 174 grains + 0, -3 grains. All the bullets I've ever pulled from M72 were just about right at the maximum 174 grains. I am mentioning this because all the Sierra 175 grain Matchkings I have measured also were right about at 174 grains. The last M72 loaded for the DCM used 46.5 grains of IMR4895 under the FMJ in Lake City cases with military primer. CCI's #34 primer copies that military primer and is recommended. Remington cases copy Lake City case capacity pretty closely. So, if you load Remington cases (or Lake City, if you have them) with the 175 grain Sierra MatchKing over 46.5 grains of IMR4895 and using the CCI #34 primer, you will have a very good copy of M72 match, except that you'll be using a better bullet.

Note that there are two kinds of primer pocket uniforming: depth and profile. The depth uniformers are end cutters with a stop that lets you make all your primer pockets equally deep. A good thing for use with the Co-ax type primer seater. The profile uniformer is actually a kind of reamer and cuts at the sides, removing military crimps in the process. You will probably want both kinds. I use a Neil Jones depth uniforming tool. I like the Wilson tool's profile cutter best, though it wears on your fingers after awhile. Thank goodness neither step needs to be done more than once in the life of a case.

My dad and I co-purchased a Giraud case trimmer this year. 7th heaven for case trimming, but way, way wretched excess for someone new to the game. The Wilson trimmer with a stand is very good and not outrageously expensive as such devices go. You need the trimmer, plus a case holder, plus the primer pocket reamer if you want to go that route rather than the RCBS? I recommend it. The Wilson has the advantage of true coaxial case and cutter alignment as well as lower cost. You will also need to buy a case mouth chamfering and deburring cutter. I don't know if one comes in the RCBS kit you mentioned, if you stay with RCBS? The Wilson tools are available at Sinclair and at Bruno's. I recommend the stands sold by Sinclair for it. I don't recommend you bother with the micrometer head version for setting trim depth if you are going to be trimming just .30-06.

Back in the 60's the NRA published a bullet runout effect test made by measuring M72 runout and firing 829 rounds of it. The conclusion was that runout of 0.004" caused about 1 M.O.A. of group size increase. Bigger than that cause no further error because the bullet could straighten back out to 0.004" equivalent tilt in the bore from anything bigger. They felt you should hold runout down to 0.002" or better for match shooting. Standard seating dies will not normally achieve that, even using tricks like partially rotating and seating in steps. The Redding Competition Bullet Seater die will achieve it, though. I can attest to having measured its results. I understand Forster's equivalent seating die will also, but I don't own one, so I only have that information second hand. I would consider getting one of the two.

The Redding powder measure (I have the BR30) is especially good with ball powders. If you are going to use stick powders, I recommend the Johnson Quick Measure. It is not as well-known and is more bother to set up than the Redding micrometer adjsutment, but is the only measure design I've seen that absolutely will not cut the grains of stick powders at all, and always seems to throw them within a couple of tenths of a grain extreme spread. The steel drum measures have a harder time with stick powders, and will usually have at least twice the error. The inexpensive Lee Perfect measure is next best with grain cutting when you get a good one.