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February 6, 2009, 01:30 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: November 17, 2007
Posts: 24
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cleaning reloading dies
Do I need to clean my dillon carbide resizing die? or any of the other ones. The brass does not seem as clean coming out of the press as going in.
Thanks for the help |
February 6, 2009, 01:59 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: December 5, 2007
Posts: 24
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I clean my dies after every reloading session. If loading many cartridges, I will sometime clean during a session. I simply remove the die plate from my RCBS Pro2000 and take a cotton swab moistened with Hoppes #9 to remove the debris. A second swab wipes away the excess solvent and I return to reloading.
It is possible for this 'gunk' that accumulates to vary seating depth, scratch cases, and in some cases damage dies. An ounce of prevention... Regards, BuffDriver |
February 6, 2009, 02:59 AM | #3 |
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If your brass appears to be getting dirty after sizing it tells me your case prep, i.e. tumbling, isn't sufficiently cleaning the cases. IMHO the only die that should require routine cleaning is the seating die, especially when loading lead bullets. Cleaning the Dillon seating die, by design, is a snap.
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February 6, 2009, 11:53 AM | #4 |
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They look nice and shiny coming out of the tumbler. After resizing they look a bit dirty around the top half of the brass. I am using FMJ bullets so I don't think its bullet lube. Is it possible I have put too much polish in my medium? Is it possible the polish has accumulated in the resize die?
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February 6, 2009, 01:26 PM | #5 |
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all I have ever done is hit the dies witha light dose of brake parts cleaner then CLP before storage.
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February 6, 2009, 02:01 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: July 18, 2008
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and I clean the inside of the die with a paper towl on a dowel, I change the paper until I do not get color.
F. Guffey |
February 6, 2009, 02:20 PM | #7 |
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Dies
I do not like to put oil in my dies. Personally I use a can of spray brake cleaner, soft hair tooth brushes, and a can of air. Give them a quick clean every time you use them, and you will never have a problem. Tom.
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February 6, 2009, 03:49 PM | #8 |
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Accosey, before I cleaned a die I put a lot of thought into installing a cylinder sleeve, replacing guides, knurling and reaming guides, and boring cylinders, if the cylinder did not require boring to oversize, decide if I was going to apply the 'LEAVER POLICY'. I was out numbered, seems the de-glazers/honers wanted to cut down on 'brake-in', I thought the glassed wall of the cylinder could not be improved upon, I thought the glassed wall prevented oil from being trapped in the rough surface of the wall and I was never convinced all of the abrasive material was removed when the surface was cleaned. The surface inside the die is smooth, I choose to apply the 'LEAVER POLICY', I clean the inside of the die with a paper towel on a dowel and do not risk removing anything in the die that makes the surface smooth by filling the micro scratches. I have not read the label on brake clean, I do know the towel on the dowel does not kick up much dust.
F. Guffey |
February 6, 2009, 03:58 PM | #9 |
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computers are vacuum cleaners that attract dirt, grit and etc., I clean computers with a vacuum cleaner de-glazers/honers use compressed air, it is like the dirt blow out of the computer does not exist after it exits the computer.
F. Guffey |
February 6, 2009, 06:57 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: April 18, 2008
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carb/choke or brake cleaner - sprayed inside every billion rounds or so, then blasted out with some canned air works real well
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February 6, 2009, 07:52 PM | #11 |
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yes, I just use a little cleaner on a Q tip - the Dillon dies come apart easily for cleaning / and I always clean the dies when I change calibers - or when I go thru a case of bullets ( 2,000 - 3,750 ) depending on the caliber.
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February 6, 2009, 08:28 PM | #12 |
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Join Date: August 17, 2008
Location: S.E. TN.
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The LEE 4-die set in my PRO2000 needs cleaning between 500 and 800 rounds, I like to lube the cases (all pistol) and load cast bullets. The HORNDAY ONE-SHOT dry lube and cleaner and a patch on a cleaning rod works very well.
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February 6, 2009, 10:05 PM | #13 |
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Both Dillon and Hornady seating dies disassemble easily for cleaning, and reassemble without affecting the settings. You just pull a spring clip on them and the guts fall out in your hand. Great idea for a seating die used with lead bullets. I like the extra features of the Hornady too: sliding alignment sleeve, crimping ability, optional micrometer head, and cross-bolt lock rings with wrench flats.
Andy |
February 7, 2009, 12:40 AM | #14 |
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I'm another brake cleaner guy. I get a can at wally world for a buck... get the non chlorinated kind. Anyway, Then I swab some Hoppes #9 through it.
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February 7, 2009, 02:32 AM | #15 |
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I've only loaded about 1100 rounds. I'll clean out the resizing die saturday. see if that makes a differance.
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February 7, 2009, 05:16 AM | #16 | |
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Quote:
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February 7, 2009, 12:30 PM | #17 |
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Cleaning dies
Before a major re-loading session I always clean my dies with a Q-tip and some hoppies #9 to make sure no bullet lube from cast bullets is stuck in them.
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February 9, 2009, 04:54 PM | #18 |
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Hmmmm... I just cleaned my Lee .45ACP and .44 Mag dies today. They were filthy.
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February 9, 2009, 07:57 PM | #19 |
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I use a little peice of Scotch-Brite to clean mine out when they look dirty. A clean die is a happy die. You can easily see when they are dirty, you re-sized brass looks like crap.
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February 9, 2009, 11:23 PM | #20 |
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Only 1100? hehe... I clean mine every 200-300 rounds and they are usually pretty dirty..
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"If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun." The Dalai Llama (5/15/01, The Seattle Times) "That rifle on the wall of the labourer's cottage or working class flat is the symbol of democracy. It is our job to see that it stays there." George Orwell |
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