40 S&W

hammered54 · February 24, 2011, 02:29 PM

getting ready to start on reloading these and have a few questions.
first the brass I'm starting with is from two guns, a glock and a S&W, I"m concerned with the " bulge" nothing to bad here but the glock fired brass seems a little fatter, should I separate it and use it in each gun or does it not matter.

I've read about the "bulge buster" from Lee and sounds like what I should be using....but after reading the instruction for it (on line) it sounds to me that its not intended for use for the glock brass...am I wrong.
dont want to keep it seperate would like to just use it in any gun after its reloaded.

thanks Matt

here is the quote from the instructions, Do not use the Bulge Buster Kit to reload for the
40 S&W Glock or similar guns with chambers that
do not fully support the cartridge due to the
intrusion of the feed ramp.

larry60 · February 24, 2011, 06:31 PM

I am new to reloading for the 40 S&W but I found out real quick what a problem the bulge is. I bought Reddings titanium carbide dies which work very well. I picked up some once fired mixed brass and started running them through my sizer die. Right away I knew there was a problem because of a ring that was being left near the bottom of the case. I had not heard of the Glock bulge and did a lot of research before I knew that was the problem. I tossed out half of the brass I had sized it was that bad. I bought some roll sized brass at Gunbroker.com they were better but I was still getting the ring on about 5% of my cases. I read about the Lee bulge buster here and ordered it from Midway I also had to order a Lee factory crimp die. That solved most of the problem after you run your brass through the Lee bulge buster you will still need to run them through your sizing die.

fourrobert13 · February 24, 2011, 09:38 PM

Get a Redding GRX die and remove the bulge. You run the brass through the die before you run it through your resizer. Problem solved.

Twinsig · February 24, 2011, 09:52 PM

Better yet, get a couple of Sig229s and forget about battle of the bulge.

OKay, there goes the thread!

Back on Sig vs Glock! HA hA

Jim243 · February 24, 2011, 10:29 PM

Use the Lee Bulge Buster and FCD for the 40 S&W, just spray lube your cases before you start it will make it easyier to resize them and get rid of the GLOCK bulge.

Jim

kalevatom · February 25, 2011, 08:41 AM

I use the resizing die from the Lee 3 die set($30) in my Dillon for .40. I also use the adjustable seating die.

billnourse · February 25, 2011, 11:24 PM

That is why three of my loading manuals warn against loading .40 S&W for use in Glock guns.

Bill

hammered54 · February 26, 2011, 01:32 PM

Get a Redding GRX die and remove the bulge. You run the brass through the die before you run it through your resizer. Problem solved.
__________________
Be aware of yourself and everything around you.

I'll look into one of these...

chasep255 · February 26, 2011, 02:05 PM

The reason the glock is creating the bulge is because its chamber is not fully supported. This means that the chamber is a bit bigger than usual which supposedly make the gun less likely to jam. The down side is that this adds extra strain to the brass and allows it to bulge when fired. This is why Glock says not to use reloads in their guns. If you really want to shoot reloads out of your glock go and get an aftermarket barrel with a fully supported chamber.

scsov509 · February 26, 2011, 03:07 PM

Quote:

This is why Glock says not to use reloads in their guns.

Every major firearms manufacturer recommends against using reloads in their guns, Glock is hardly the exception here.

For what it's worth, I've never used the Lee Bulge Buster or any other special tools, and I've loaded many thousands of .40 rounds without a single problem. I'd suggest you focus on good, basic reloading habits like close inspection of your brass when processing, and then see if that doesn't just prevent problems in the first place.

**Unclenick** · February 26, 2011, 03:32 PM

The Redding GRx die gets its name from "Glock Prescription". It was made for this purpose. I just wouldn't run hot loads through that same brass afterward. Target loads should be no problem and won't tend to re-bulge the case as badly.

Also, if you have a lot of bulge, double-check with a caliper that the cases don't get too long after ironing the bulge and resizing. Make sure the mouths are still reasonably square.

jepp2 · February 26, 2011, 06:19 PM

Quote:

1. The reason the glock is creating the bulge is because its chamber is not fully supported. 2. This means that the chamber is a bit bigger than usual which supposedly make the gun less likely to jam. The down side is that this adds extra strain to the brass and allows it to bulge when fired. 3. If you really want to shoot reloads out of your glock go and get an aftermarket barrel with a fully supported chamber.

1. Lack of chamber support creates a bulge near the rim of the case. 3'rd generation Glocks have much improved chamber support versus earlier models. Many pistols have chamber support similar to Glocks.

2. Generous chambers create a bulge further forward on the case. For reliable operation several pistol manufacturers size their chambers generous for reliable operation.

3. A very good idea. In addition to being much easier on your brass, it eliminates the potential issue with shooing lead in barrels with polygonal rifling.

chasep255 · February 28, 2011, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Every major firearms manufacturer recommends against using reloads in their guns, Glock is hardly the exception here.

True, but even some of my loading data has a special warning for glock shooters.

February 24, 2011, 02:29 PM	#1
hammered54 Senior Member Join Date: September 28, 2010 Location: Pinckney,Michigan Posts: 151	40 S&W getting ready to start on reloading these and have a few questions. first the brass I'm starting with is from two guns, a glock and a S&W, I"m concerned with the " bulge" nothing to bad here but the glock fired brass seems a little fatter, should I separate it and use it in each gun or does it not matter. I've read about the "bulge buster" from Lee and sounds like what I should be using....but after reading the instruction for it (on line) it sounds to me that its not intended for use for the glock brass...am I wrong. dont want to keep it seperate would like to just use it in any gun after its reloaded. thanks Matt here is the quote from the instructions, Do not use the Bulge Buster Kit to reload for the 40 S&W Glock or similar guns with chambers that do not fully support the cartridge due to the intrusion of the feed ramp. Last edited by hammered54; February 24, 2011 at 04:28 PM.

February 24, 2011, 09:52 PM	#4
Twinsig Senior Member Join Date: January 30, 2009 Location: East Alabama Posts: 235	Better yet, get a couple of Sig229s and forget about battle of the bulge. OKay, there goes the thread! Back on Sig vs Glock! HA hA __________________ I also have Fire Extinguishers, hope I never need those either.

February 24, 2011, 10:29 PM	#5
Jim243 Senior Member Join Date: January 5, 2009 Location: Just off Route 66 Posts: 5,067	Use the Lee Bulge Buster and FCD for the 40 S&W, just spray lube your cases before you start it will make it easyier to resize them and get rid of the GLOCK bulge. Jim __________________ Si vis pacem, para bellum

February 25, 2011, 11:24 PM	#7
billnourse Senior Member Join Date: September 16, 2010 Location: Bloomfield, NM Posts: 366	That is why three of my loading manuals warn against loading .40 S&W for use in Glock guns. Bill __________________ Cooper 52 25/06, Cooper 52 30/06, Cooper 52 338/06Cooper 57 .17HMR, Remington VS .22/250 all left handed. Rock River Predator Persuit AR-15, 1952 Marlin 336 in 30/30. 2 Kimber 1911, Colt 1911, S&W .357 Mag, Kahr .40 and .380

February 26, 2011, 03:32 PM	#11
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,063	The Redding GRx die gets its name from "Glock Prescription". It was made for this purpose. I just wouldn't run hot loads through that same brass afterward. Target loads should be no problem and won't tend to re-bulge the case as badly. Also, if you have a lot of bulge, double-check with a caliper that the cases don't get too long after ironing the bulge and resizing. Make sure the mouths are still reasonably square. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

February 24, 2011, 06:31 PM	#2
larry60 Member Join Date: February 3, 2011 Posts: 46	I am new to reloading for the 40 S&W but I found out real quick what a problem the bulge is. I bought Reddings titanium carbide dies which work very well. I picked up some once fired mixed brass and started running them through my sizer die. Right away I knew there was a problem because of a ring that was being left near the bottom of the case. I had not heard of the Glock bulge and did a lot of research before I knew that was the problem. I tossed out half of the brass I had sized it was that bad. I bought some roll sized brass at Gunbroker.com they were better but I was still getting the ring on about 5% of my cases. I read about the Lee bulge buster here and ordered it from Midway I also had to order a Lee factory crimp die. That solved most of the problem after you run your brass through the Lee bulge buster you will still need to run them through your sizing die.

February 24, 2011, 09:38 PM	#3
fourrobert13 Senior Member Join Date: November 28, 2005 Location: South West Ohio Posts: 336	Get a Redding GRX die and remove the bulge. You run the brass through the die before you run it through your resizer. Problem solved. __________________ Be aware of yourself and everything around you.

February 25, 2011, 08:41 AM	#6
kalevatom Senior Member Join Date: October 28, 2010 Location: northwestern Michigan Posts: 198	I use the resizing die from the Lee 3 die set($30) in my Dillon for .40. I also use the adjustable seating die.

February 26, 2011, 01:32 PM	#8
hammered54 Senior Member Join Date: September 28, 2010 Location: Pinckney,Michigan Posts: 151	Get a Redding GRX die and remove the bulge. You run the brass through the die before you run it through your resizer. Problem solved. __________________ Be aware of yourself and everything around you. I'll look into one of these...

February 26, 2011, 02:05 PM	#9
chasep255 Senior Member Join Date: December 21, 2009 Location: NJ Posts: 727	The reason the glock is creating the bulge is because its chamber is not fully supported. This means that the chamber is a bit bigger than usual which supposedly make the gun less likely to jam. The down side is that this adds extra strain to the brass and allows it to bulge when fired. This is why Glock says not to use reloads in their guns. If you really want to shoot reloads out of your glock go and get an aftermarket barrel with a fully supported chamber.