Refurbing a used police 870, what to buy?

Soybomb · September 21, 2005, 03:36 PM

I got in a pretty heavily used 870 police that I'm going to use and trying to finalize my list of what to buy. After I took out the trigger assembly I was burshing it clean and the carrier spring and plunger shot across the room. I found them, but the left side's trigger plate detent spring is gone. I didn't see it on my table so it eithere came out when I drove out the trigger pins and I didn't notice, or it didn't come with one. Either way I'm ordering one of those.

I figure a new magazine spring and maybe a metal follower would be good. Might order a side saddle while I'm at it. The bolt in the magazine extension clamp is pretty chewed up so maybe another of those. Are there any other springs or wear items I should be ordering while I'm at it? I think I'll stick with the heavier police disconnect spring for the time.

Dfariswheel · September 21, 2005, 07:19 PM

Unless you see something badly worn, broken, or obviously defective, a new mag spring is about it.

Most Police guns get carried around a lot, but not shot that much.

Soybomb · September 21, 2005, 09:10 PM

Great, thanks.

A carefully applied gerber tool took off the fore-end nut.

Now if i could just get the pin holding in the firing pin to come out so I could rub the rust off the firing pin I'd be happy. My brass punch is deforming a little...hmmm

Can shell latches be removed and replaced at home? Theres some rust behind it on the receiver it looks like and I'd like to clean it off a little more.

Dfariswheel · September 22, 2005, 12:21 AM

DO NOT remove the shell latches.
They're staked in place, and re-staking requires a special staking device.
You CANNOT use a standard punch.

I suggest flushing the inside of the receiver and under the latches with something like Gun Scrubber or brake cleaner.

Let dry until bone dry, then spray dripping wet with Rem-Oil or CLP Breakfree.
Be sure to flood the underside of the latches.

Drain the excess.
This will usually "kill" any rust.

The pin that holds the firing pin in, is driven out from the top side of the bolt.

Rest the flat bottom on a anvil with a hole that'll pass the pin, and drive it out with a 1/8" punch.

The pin has splines on one end, so make sure to put it back the same way, with the splines on the lower end.

9mmMike · September 22, 2005, 01:38 PM

That pin in the bolt can be a bear. I've done a couple and I needed a good steel punch and heavy hammer to do it. Make sure you put it back in all the way. Flush is OK but a little recessed is better. It will interfere with the action if it backs out beyond flush.
The Gerber-tool makes me cringe. It will be difficult to get that forearm nut tight enough without the correct tool.
Shell latches....
I have had had shell latches that could be popped in and out due to shallow staking with no trouble. I just built another 870 from a stripped receiver and actually bought the staking tool from Brownells because the latches that I had would just fall out every time I pulled the trigger group. It worked but IMHO it's way over-priced for what you get and I will be looking for something nicer.
I have also successfully re-staked a loose latch (bottom stake point only) with a fine steel punch and a light brass hammer. It does not take much to hold them in place.
I'd be more concerned about damaging a latch during removal that was properly and firmly staked. They are quite strong though. If the latches do not come out very very easily, I would agree that a good flushing with CLP and some detail cleaning with q-tips, pipe cleaners or even floss should work OK. An aerosol blast (wear eye protection) will clear some crud as well.
Lastly concerning the latches. I know that some companies will reblue a gun with the latches in place so I'd not worry too much about removing them for cleaning.
Since this sounds like a fairly neglected gun, you should also consider removing the butt-stock and looking for rust at the back of the receiver. Give the receiver-end of the stock a good coating of wax while it's off to seal the grain.
Also, double or triple up some patches, soaked with CLP, on your cleaning jag and run it through the mag tube while it's apart. I have found that even some "clean" guns that I've bought had a surprising amount of rust in the mag tube.

Soybomb · September 23, 2005, 10:11 AM

Plastic stock, but I think you're right about checking the back of the receiver for rust. The mag definately had some rust in it. I'll just leave the latches and flush the backs out.

Was I was ordering I also got a big button vang safety and a small bottle of oxpho-blue. I'll test it out in the receiver where I cleaned the rust out and if it doesn't look too bad I might go over the outside to. Cold-bluing over parkerizeing doesn't sound promising though, at least it will be protected though

Dave McC · September 23, 2005, 12:26 PM

What to buy....

Ammo.

Cleaning stuff.

Sling studs and sling.

New recoil pad(Optional).

Run a few cases of ammo through it.At that point, you'll know if it NEEDS anything else. Do not buy addons or gadgets until you've shot it plenty.

HTH...

Soybomb · September 23, 2005, 01:46 PM

Speedfeed stock with sling stud and also 1 on magazine extender. I'll probably buy a sling sometime to just keep on hand, but since I don't plan to leave the house unless its in a case on the way to the range I'll probably not put it on. I'm not even getting a new recoil pad til I get it back together and get it to the range and see if it needs it. The big button safety from vang is my only modification I have planned.

Well maybe a side saddle, still havent decided.

September 21, 2005, 03:36 PM	#1
Soybomb Member Join Date: August 5, 2005 Posts: 72	Refurbing a used police 870, what to buy? I got in a pretty heavily used 870 police that I'm going to use and trying to finalize my list of what to buy. After I took out the trigger assembly I was burshing it clean and the carrier spring and plunger shot across the room. I found them, but the left side's trigger plate detent spring is gone. I didn't see it on my table so it eithere came out when I drove out the trigger pins and I didn't notice, or it didn't come with one. Either way I'm ordering one of those. I figure a new magazine spring and maybe a metal follower would be good. Might order a side saddle while I'm at it. The bolt in the magazine extension clamp is pretty chewed up so maybe another of those. Are there any other springs or wear items I should be ordering while I'm at it? I think I'll stick with the heavier police disconnect spring for the time.

September 21, 2005, 09:10 PM	#3
Soybomb Member Join Date: August 5, 2005 Posts: 72	Great, thanks. A carefully applied gerber tool took off the fore-end nut. Now if i could just get the pin holding in the firing pin to come out so I could rub the rust off the firing pin I'd be happy. My brass punch is deforming a little...hmmm Can shell latches be removed and replaced at home? Theres some rust behind it on the receiver it looks like and I'd like to clean it off a little more. Last edited by Soybomb; September 21, 2005 at 09:47 PM.

September 22, 2005, 01:38 PM	#5
9mmMike Senior Member Join Date: January 6, 2000 Location: SE PA Posts: 1,049	That pin in the bolt can be a bear. I've done a couple and I needed a good steel punch and heavy hammer to do it. Make sure you put it back in all the way. Flush is OK but a little recessed is better. It will interfere with the action if it backs out beyond flush. The Gerber-tool makes me cringe. It will be difficult to get that forearm nut tight enough without the correct tool. Shell latches.... I have had had shell latches that could be popped in and out due to shallow staking with no trouble. I just built another 870 from a stripped receiver and actually bought the staking tool from Brownells because the latches that I had would just fall out every time I pulled the trigger group. It worked but IMHO it's way over-priced for what you get and I will be looking for something nicer. I have also successfully re-staked a loose latch (bottom stake point only) with a fine steel punch and a light brass hammer. It does not take much to hold them in place. I'd be more concerned about damaging a latch during removal that was properly and firmly staked. They are quite strong though. If the latches do not come out very very easily, I would agree that a good flushing with CLP and some detail cleaning with q-tips, pipe cleaners or even floss should work OK. An aerosol blast (wear eye protection) will clear some crud as well. Lastly concerning the latches. I know that some companies will reblue a gun with the latches in place so I'd not worry too much about removing them for cleaning. Since this sounds like a fairly neglected gun, you should also consider removing the butt-stock and looking for rust at the back of the receiver. Give the receiver-end of the stock a good coating of wax while it's off to seal the grain. Also, double or triple up some patches, soaked with CLP, on your cleaning jag and run it through the mag tube while it's apart. I have found that even some "clean" guns that I've bought had a surprising amount of rust in the mag tube. __________________ "Freedom is not free" Visit TheRallyPoint.org TheRallyPoint at LRGC- Saturday August 26th IF YOU LIVE IN PA AND DID NOT VOTE, YOU DESERVE TO LOSE YOUR GUNS!

September 21, 2005, 07:19 PM	#2
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	Unless you see something badly worn, broken, or obviously defective, a new mag spring is about it. Most Police guns get carried around a lot, but not shot that much.

September 22, 2005, 12:21 AM	#4
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	DO NOT remove the shell latches. They're staked in place, and re-staking requires a special staking device. You CANNOT use a standard punch. I suggest flushing the inside of the receiver and under the latches with something like Gun Scrubber or brake cleaner. Let dry until bone dry, then spray dripping wet with Rem-Oil or CLP Breakfree. Be sure to flood the underside of the latches. Drain the excess. This will usually "kill" any rust. The pin that holds the firing pin in, is driven out from the top side of the bolt. Rest the flat bottom on a anvil with a hole that'll pass the pin, and drive it out with a 1/8" punch. The pin has splines on one end, so make sure to put it back the same way, with the splines on the lower end.

September 23, 2005, 10:11 AM	#6
Soybomb Member Join Date: August 5, 2005 Posts: 72	Plastic stock, but I think you're right about checking the back of the receiver for rust. The mag definately had some rust in it. I'll just leave the latches and flush the backs out. Was I was ordering I also got a big button vang safety and a small bottle of oxpho-blue. I'll test it out in the receiver where I cleaned the rust out and if it doesn't look too bad I might go over the outside to. Cold-bluing over parkerizeing doesn't sound promising though, at least it will be protected though

September 23, 2005, 12:26 PM	#7
Dave McC Staff In Memoriam Join Date: October 13, 1999 Location: Columbia, Md, USA Posts: 8,811	What to buy.... Ammo. Cleaning stuff. Sling studs and sling. New recoil pad(Optional). Run a few cases of ammo through it.At that point, you'll know if it NEEDS anything else. Do not buy addons or gadgets until you've shot it plenty. HTH...

September 23, 2005, 01:46 PM	#8
Soybomb Member Join Date: August 5, 2005 Posts: 72	Speedfeed stock with sling stud and also 1 on magazine extender. I'll probably buy a sling sometime to just keep on hand, but since I don't plan to leave the house unless its in a case on the way to the range I'll probably not put it on. I'm not even getting a new recoil pad til I get it back together and get it to the range and see if it needs it. The big button safety from vang is my only modification I have planned. Well maybe a side saddle, still havent decided.