nickle or brass? whats your pref?

troy_mclure · December 23, 2009, 11:12 AM

what do you like nickle or brass cases?

why?

ive been cleaning up alot of range brass lately, and havent found 1 bad nickle case, i have tossed plenty of overly stained/corroded brass cases tho.

im separating the nickle out of the rest of the lots in case it shoots different or something.

hornady · December 23, 2009, 11:22 AM

I shoot and load a lot of both. The nickel stuff cleans up nice. But you will not get as many loads out of it. The nickel stuff is more brittle and split and is less reloadable .I’m not saying don’t reload it. It just will not last as long as the straight brass cases.

hornady · December 23, 2009, 11:29 AM

I just read the rest of your post. The nickel will shoot and load just like the Brass. over the years none of the range pistol Brass i have bought was sep, Only exception. Is Rifle brass. Then it should be loaded in lots.

Christchild · December 23, 2009, 11:32 AM

I prefer brass over nickel cases, because nickel-work continues to harden and gets really abrasive on Your dies and other tools. However/whenever I obtain nickel cases, I prep them ONE time and shoot them ONE time if I prep them at all. After I shoot them that first time, I don't use them again. There have been times that I've obtained 6-8-10 nickel cases (.270 Win.), immediately seperated them out and gave them to someone who can/will use them. They don't "go to waste" but I don't use nickel brass much.

They keep corrosion away, and that's a major plus, they also feed like glass, but I'd rather not use nickel cases that wear on my dies, for the sake of a handful or 2 of cases.

Brian Pfleuger · December 23, 2009, 12:17 PM

I've got some Speer Gold Dot cases in 357sig that have cracked necks in the 30-50% range after the first firing. I just started reloading so my experience is limited but, at least for the sig, it's turning me off to nickle.

Ksmoker · December 23, 2009, 01:00 PM

Care to share any recipe(s) for the Sig ?? I have been rollin a few here in my spare time..

Shoney · December 23, 2009, 01:14 PM

I use nickel cases quite a bit.

For pistol I use them so I can easily distinguish special loads. As the other posts stated, they become brittle and usually split at the neck after a few loadings.

For rifle, I load all my hunting loads in nickel for two reasons: 1. I know its a hunting load; and 2. the cases work more smoothly in the actions and will not foul under adverse weather conditions (in NW forests, the trees leach tannins and lignins which react with brass t o make it "sticky", but nickel is not affected).

Then there is the urban legend that nickel is abrasive to your dies
both steel and carbide are much harder than nickel, after loading nearly 500 nickel in 300WinMag and 6mm Rem, I can see no problem with my dies. I've run thousands of nickel cases thru my pistol dies with no ill effect.

Smokey Joe · December 23, 2009, 01:17 PM

Nickel or brass, in free range pickups, it's all good.

Now this is for use in pistols, or in "non-serious" rifles.

For "serious" rifles, I have high-grade brass, kept in separate lots, and use nothing else in those firearms. Range pick-ups in those cartridges either get traded with friends, or go in the scrap brass bucket.

But for pistols, it doesn't matter--there are too many other factors going into pistol accuracy to bother with the slight differences caused by different manufacturers' cases.

And BTW, when reloading straight-wall pistol brass, most people use carbide resize dies, which couldn't care less whether nickel or brass is going in & out of the die--the carbide is harder than either. I can't see wear & tear on the bell-mouth or crimp dies being a factor, either. The brass (I'm using that as a collective term, here!) is cleaned in a tumbler prior to sizing, so crud on the cases isn't a factor either.

Brian Pfleuger · December 23, 2009, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ksmoker

Care to share any recipe(s) for the Sig ??

sent PM

troy_mclure · December 23, 2009, 01:45 PM

to who?

twice barrel · December 23, 2009, 01:57 PM

I haven't experienced any problems with nickle plated brass cases anymore than I have with all brass cases. I've had brass from a certain lot from any mfg seem different from "normal" at one time or another. If a person experiences premature neck splitting from a batch of nickle brass it would be easy to presume its the nickled cases but I've had the same thing happen from all brass too.

Personally I don't think its wise to keep reloading to the point of case failure anyway and the only way you'll know it for sure is to purchase new unfired cases/ammo and keep your lots segregated.

How many folks load 5 times and then just leave their cases lay only to have them sold later as "range fired" brass by a local yokel that scavenges left cases?

TB

hornady · December 23, 2009, 02:24 PM

I have shot a ton of range brass over the years. Now no one on hear would recommend shooting full house loads in range brass. Or in unsupported Barrel guns like the Glock. But for plinking with mid range loads. In most revolvers and lite Auto loads. I don’t see a problem. If you went by what most Firearms Manufacturers say. You wouldn’t fire any reloads anyway.

Kyo · December 23, 2009, 02:35 PM

i think nickel plated is better because my dies don't have to work as hard to size them. My FCD doesn't ever need to resize my remington nickel cartridges

FrankenMauser · December 23, 2009, 02:44 PM

I use both.

They both hold powder, a primer, and a bullet.
They both contain the pressure.

I don't care if my brass is tarnished so badly it looks like petrified 'poop'*; or clean enough to be mistaken for a diamond. Appearance has no influence on performance; as long as it's clean.

Both win.

(*This obscenity filter sucks. It filters words that are not obscene, but leaves words many people find very offensive. Check this out - the name of a fruit: g****.{gr-ape})

CraigC · December 23, 2009, 03:11 PM

Common wisdom holds that nickel plated brass is more brittle and prone to cracks and splits. Experience indicates that it depends on the brass. Some cannot be loaded more than a couple times. While I've got some nickel plated Speer .44Mag brass that's been loaded and reloaded so many times the plating is almost worn completely off.

Quote:

And BTW, when reloading straight-wall pistol brass, most people use carbide resize dies, which couldn't care less whether nickel or brass is going in & out of the die

Plated cases take more effort to resize, on average. Nickel plated brass is also likely to peel and flake at the case mouth. Those flakes tend to get imbedded in the carbide ring and start scratching cases. No free lunches.

I mostly use nickel plated brass for cartridges that may spend some time in leather cartridge loops. Cuts down on the green factor.

**Mike Irwin** · December 23, 2009, 03:18 PM

I've never gotten more than 10-15 loadings out of any nickel plated case, no matter what the manufacturer.

I've got a lot of brass cases, .38 Spl., that have better than 30 loadings, some with as many as 50.

In my experience roll crimping for revolver cartridge is REALLY what kills nickel plated cases. I'd bet that I would get a lot better service were I to taper crimp.

Sam06 · December 23, 2009, 04:30 PM

I am not a fan of Nickle brass. The only thing I use it for is to load 45-70 in my Trapdoor. That way I don't get them mixed up with the loads for my lever guns.

Its not worth the extra $$ and they are harder on dies. If they are in range pick brass up I load them but I don't look for them.

Christchild · December 23, 2009, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Then there is the urban legend that nickel is abrasive to your dies
both steel and carbide are much harder than nickel, after loading nearly 500 nickel in 300WinMag and 6mm Rem, I can see no problem with my dies.

Below is an entry from this website, and the entry is approximately 60-65% down the page...

Quote:

A. Will they scratch the inside of dies? Yes, especially the unhardened older dies and with spray on lubes and RCBS lube. If cases are tumbled, washed and lubed with Imperial Sizing Die wax, they will not. I went to Pacific Chromed dies and never had any more problems. They do not need this if used with carbide insert dies.

I understand that several of the things we "know" today may be "myth's", but nickel cases sure do make an awful sound when the case neck is being resized in the die...Thank You, Shoney, for fueling my search that led to the "findings" I've posted...We learn (should) something new, every day.

Toolman · December 23, 2009, 08:02 PM

I use 'em both. Some of the nickle cases have been reloaded 4-5 times & no cracking or splits. I haven't tried to anneal the nickle cases yet.

Brian Pfleuger · December 23, 2009, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by troy_mclure

to who?

To Ksmoker, he asked about load data for the sig.... I didn't want to hijack your thread.

Uncle Chan · December 24, 2009, 01:49 AM

I've had poor luck with nickel. as such, I won't use it. I bought a bunch of Winchester nickel to use for CAS. within a couple firings, on many of the cases, the nickel had flaked-off. some mouths had even split. I tossed it all and now use mainly Starline Brass.

FlyFish · December 24, 2009, 09:35 AM

I use nickel and brass cases interchangeably in a number of handgun cartridges. I've never noticed any difference in case life - I have a couple hundred Super Vel nickel .357 cases that I've been loading (in most cases relatively mild target loads) for over 30 years and I don't think I've had to discard more than a few. Most have gotten to the point where the nickel is wearing off, showing the brass underneath.

I did pick up some nickel .38 Special cases at the range a while back and when I got around to prepping them noticed that the nickel was starting to flake off around the case mouth. Those I discarded, but that's the only problem I've seen with nickel in about 35 years of reloading.

Jim243 · December 24, 2009, 09:46 AM

Use "brass" easyier to work with.

Jim

johnjohn · December 24, 2009, 10:03 AM

I prefer "brass" over nickel. Nickel seems to split earlier.

jimbob86 · December 24, 2009, 12:04 PM

Nickel splits sooner.

It feeds better, as it does not tarnish like brass.

December 23, 2009, 11:12 AM	#1
troy_mclure Senior Member Join Date: November 17, 2008 Location: gulf of mexico Posts: 2,716	nickle or brass? whats your pref? what do you like nickle or brass cases? why? ive been cleaning up alot of range brass lately, and havent found 1 bad nickle case, i have tossed plenty of overly stained/corroded brass cases tho. im separating the nickle out of the rest of the lots in case it shoots different or something. __________________ There is only one tactical principle which is not subject to change. It is to use the means at hand to inflict the maximum amount of wound, death, and destruction on the enemy in the minimum amount of time."

December 23, 2009, 12:17 PM	#5
Brian Pfleuger Moderator Emeritus Join Date: June 25, 2008 Location: Austin, CO Posts: 19,578	I've got some Speer Gold Dot cases in 357sig that have cracked necks in the 30-50% range after the first firing. I just started reloading so my experience is limited but, at least for the sig, it's turning me off to nickle. __________________ Nobody plans to screw up their lives... ...they just don't plan not to. -Andy Stanley

December 23, 2009, 01:00 PM	#6
Ksmoker Member Join Date: December 6, 2009 Location: NE Kansas Posts: 74	sigs Care to share any recipe(s) for the Sig ?? I have been rollin a few here in my spare time..

December 23, 2009, 01:14 PM	#7
Shoney Senior Member Join Date: February 21, 2002 Location: Transplanted from Montana Posts: 2,311	I use nickel cases quite a bit. For pistol I use them so I can easily distinguish special loads. As the other posts stated, they become brittle and usually split at the neck after a few loadings. For rifle, I load all my hunting loads in nickel for two reasons: 1. I know its a hunting load; and 2. the cases work more smoothly in the actions and will not foul under adverse weather conditions (in NW forests, the trees leach tannins and lignins which react with brass t o make it "sticky", but nickel is not affected). Then there is the urban legend that nickel is abrasive to your dies both steel and carbide are much harder than nickel, after loading nearly 500 nickel in 300WinMag and 6mm Rem, I can see no problem with my dies. I've run thousands of nickel cases thru my pistol dies with no ill effect. __________________ I pledge allegiance to the Flag - - -, and to the Republic for which it stands….Our Forefathers were brilliant for giving us a Republic, not a democracy! Do you know the difference??? and WHY?http://www.wallbuilders.com/LIBissue...les.asp?id=111

December 23, 2009, 01:17 PM	#8
Smokey Joe Senior Member Join Date: July 14, 2001 Location: State of Confusion Posts: 2,106	Hardly matters... Nickel or brass, in free range pickups, it's all good. Now this is for use in pistols, or in "non-serious" rifles. For "serious" rifles, I have high-grade brass, kept in separate lots, and use nothing else in those firearms. Range pick-ups in those cartridges either get traded with friends, or go in the scrap brass bucket. But for pistols, it doesn't matter--there are too many other factors going into pistol accuracy to bother with the slight differences caused by different manufacturers' cases. And BTW, when reloading straight-wall pistol brass, most people use carbide resize dies, which couldn't care less whether nickel or brass is going in & out of the die--the carbide is harder than either. I can't see wear & tear on the bell-mouth or crimp dies being a factor, either. The brass (I'm using that as a collective term, here!) is cleaned in a tumbler prior to sizing, so crud on the cases isn't a factor either. __________________ God Bless America --Smokey Joe

December 23, 2009, 11:22 AM	#2
hornady Senior Member Join Date: April 6, 2009 Location: SWPA Posts: 428	I shoot and load a lot of both. The nickel stuff cleans up nice. But you will not get as many loads out of it. The nickel stuff is more brittle and split and is less reloadable .I’m not saying don’t reload it. It just will not last as long as the straight brass cases.

December 23, 2009, 11:29 AM	#3
hornady Senior Member Join Date: April 6, 2009 Location: SWPA Posts: 428	I just read the rest of your post. The nickel will shoot and load just like the Brass. over the years none of the range pistol Brass i have bought was sep, Only exception. Is Rifle brass. Then it should be loaded in lots.

December 23, 2009, 11:32 AM	#4
Christchild Senior Member Join Date: June 19, 2009 Location: Loadbenchville, Bolt 02770 Posts: 544	I prefer brass over nickel cases, because nickel-work continues to harden and gets really abrasive on Your dies and other tools. However/whenever I obtain nickel cases, I prep them ONE time and shoot them ONE time if I prep them at all. After I shoot them that first time, I don't use them again. There have been times that I've obtained 6-8-10 nickel cases (.270 Win.), immediately seperated them out and gave them to someone who can/will use them. They don't "go to waste" but I don't use nickel brass much. They keep corrosion away, and that's a major plus, they also feed like glass, but I'd rather not use nickel cases that wear on my dies, for the sake of a handful or 2 of cases.

December 23, 2009, 01:45 PM	#10
troy_mclure Senior Member Join Date: November 17, 2008 Location: gulf of mexico Posts: 2,716	to who? __________________ There is only one tactical principle which is not subject to change. It is to use the means at hand to inflict the maximum amount of wound, death, and destruction on the enemy in the minimum amount of time."

December 23, 2009, 01:57 PM	#11
twice barrel Member Join Date: November 11, 2009 Posts: 98	I haven't experienced any problems with nickle plated brass cases anymore than I have with all brass cases. I've had brass from a certain lot from any mfg seem different from "normal" at one time or another. If a person experiences premature neck splitting from a batch of nickle brass it would be easy to presume its the nickled cases but I've had the same thing happen from all brass too. Personally I don't think its wise to keep reloading to the point of case failure anyway and the only way you'll know it for sure is to purchase new unfired cases/ammo and keep your lots segregated. How many folks load 5 times and then just leave their cases lay only to have them sold later as "range fired" brass by a local yokel that scavenges left cases? TB

December 23, 2009, 02:24 PM	#12
hornady Senior Member Join Date: April 6, 2009 Location: SWPA Posts: 428	I have shot a ton of range brass over the years. Now no one on hear would recommend shooting full house loads in range brass. Or in unsupported Barrel guns like the Glock. But for plinking with mid range loads. In most revolvers and lite Auto loads. I don’t see a problem. If you went by what most Firearms Manufacturers say. You wouldn’t fire any reloads anyway.

December 23, 2009, 02:35 PM	#13
Kyo Senior Member Join Date: April 14, 2009 Posts: 897	i think nickel plated is better because my dies don't have to work as hard to size them. My FCD doesn't ever need to resize my remington nickel cartridges __________________ 1. The gun is *always* loaded. 2. Never let the muzzle cover anything you are not willing to destroy. 3. Keep your finger off the trigger unless you are ready to shoot. 4. Be be sure of your target and what is beyond it.

December 23, 2009, 02:44 PM	#14
FrankenMauser Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2008 Location: In the valley above the plain Posts: 13,424	I use both. They both hold powder, a primer, and a bullet. They both contain the pressure. I don't care if my brass is tarnished so badly it looks like petrified 'poop'; or clean enough to be mistaken for a diamond. Appearance has no influence on performance; as long as it's clean. Both win. (This obscenity filter sucks. It filters words that are not obscene, but leaves words many people find very offensive. Check this out - the name of a fruit: g****.{gr-ape}) __________________ Don't even try it. It's even worse than the internet would lead you to believe.

December 23, 2009, 03:18 PM	#16
Mike Irwin Staff Join Date: April 13, 2000 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 41,380	I've never gotten more than 10-15 loadings out of any nickel plated case, no matter what the manufacturer. I've got a lot of brass cases, .38 Spl., that have better than 30 loadings, some with as many as 50. In my experience roll crimping for revolver cartridge is REALLY what kills nickel plated cases. I'd bet that I would get a lot better service were I to taper crimp. __________________ "The gift which I am sending you is called a dog, and is in fact the most precious and valuable possession of mankind" -Theodorus Gaza Baby Jesus cries when the fat redneck doesn't have military-grade firepower.

December 23, 2009, 04:30 PM	#17
Sam06 Senior Member Join Date: May 19, 2008 Location: Fayettenam Posts: 1,086	I am not a fan of Nickle brass. The only thing I use it for is to load 45-70 in my Trapdoor. That way I don't get them mixed up with the loads for my lever guns. Its not worth the extra $$ and they are harder on dies. If they are in range pick brass up I load them but I don't look for them. __________________ The two most abundant elements in the universe are hydrogen and stupidity.

December 23, 2009, 08:02 PM	#19
Toolman Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 514	I use 'em both. Some of the nickle cases have been reloaded 4-5 times & no cracking or splits. I haven't tried to anneal the nickle cases yet. __________________ Crime Control. NOT Gun Control.

December 24, 2009, 01:49 AM	#21
Uncle Chan Member Join Date: November 30, 2008 Posts: 40	I've had poor luck with nickel. as such, I won't use it. I bought a bunch of Winchester nickel to use for CAS. within a couple firings, on many of the cases, the nickel had flaked-off. some mouths had even split. I tossed it all and now use mainly Starline Brass. Last edited by Uncle Chan; December 24, 2009 at 02:00 AM.

December 24, 2009, 09:35 AM	#22
FlyFish Senior Member Join Date: January 20, 2009 Location: Overlooking the Baker River Valley Posts: 1,723	I use nickel and brass cases interchangeably in a number of handgun cartridges. I've never noticed any difference in case life - I have a couple hundred Super Vel nickel .357 cases that I've been loading (in most cases relatively mild target loads) for over 30 years and I don't think I've had to discard more than a few. Most have gotten to the point where the nickel is wearing off, showing the brass underneath. I did pick up some nickel .38 Special cases at the range a while back and when I got around to prepping them noticed that the nickel was starting to flake off around the case mouth. Those I discarded, but that's the only problem I've seen with nickel in about 35 years of reloading.

December 24, 2009, 09:46 AM	#23
Jim243 Senior Member Join Date: January 5, 2009 Location: Just off Route 66 Posts: 5,067	Use "brass" easyier to work with. Jim

December 24, 2009, 10:03 AM	#24
johnjohn Senior Member Join Date: November 6, 2009 Location: Baton Rouge La. Posts: 122	I prefer "brass" over nickel. Nickel seems to split earlier.

December 24, 2009, 12:04 PM	#25
jimbob86 Junior member Join Date: October 4, 2007 Location: All the way to NEBRASKA Posts: 8,722	Nickel splits sooner. It feeds better, as it does not tarnish like brass.