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Old November 5, 2009, 12:13 AM   #1
bryceh12321
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Your thoughts on my cleaning method.

Alright, here is the steps I take when I'm done shooting for the day:

1-Make sure that [it] is unloaded
2-Remove the bolt
3-Attach jag to cleaning rod
4-Wet 2 cleaning patches with Butch's Bore Shine and push through breach and out the muzzle. Wait 10 Minutes and shove 2 more through.
5- If the bore has a ton of copper fouling I may add KG-12 (AMAZING Stuff).
6-Attach brush to cleaning rod
7-Wet brush with Butch's Bore Shine or KG-12 and push through the breach, out the muzzle, and back about 15 times.
8-Let the gun sit for however long, depending on how dirty I expect the bore to be.
9-Come back, and wet brush again and scrub a few final times.
10-Attach jag to rod again to push dry patches through until they come out clean.
11-Push a patch through with Rem Oil a couple times with jag, followed with a dry patch to get rid of excess oil.


So do you think that's a pretty good method? I'm obsessed when it comes to keeping my barrels clean.

Oh and would you recommend I spray down everything with a degreaser as well? I'm not really sure on what that helps with. Thanks.

Last edited by Shane Tuttle; November 5, 2009 at 08:35 PM. Reason: language
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Old November 5, 2009, 12:28 AM   #2
Christchild
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I do find Your method to be good. If Your barrel is stainless, I'd keep the degreaser to a mild one, but if it's not stainless, don't degrease. Leave an oil film.

I use Butch's Bore Shine, only. And clean every 10-20 rounds. This is a few of my posts...

Quote:
I use Butch's Bore Shine...ONLY...Nothing Less, Nothing More. Iosso Eliminator brushes, which are Polymer Bristles on a Brass Core.

I soak the brush with Butch's, make a few passes, soak the brush again, more passes. FULL passes, NOT back and forth within the bore with short strokes...From receiver to muzzle and back. I'll repeat this 4-5 times until I KNOW the bore is coated well and alot of the "loose" fouling is "DISlodged", and I'll let it sit for a few minutes, say 2-5 minutes, allowing the Solvent to Do It's Thing on the powder residue.

Pass a Solvent-Wet patch thru. That patch will be nasty. I let it set for 5-10 minutes. Another Solvent Soaked patch thru. 5-10 minutes again, I'll make about 10 passes with a Solvent Soaked Brush, 5-10 minutes, then a Dry Patch to remove what's been dissolved.

I'll repeat this until a patch comes out clean, with no blue residue.

Put in the time, You'll be very pleased. And once You get that rifle clean, it's much easier to maintain. I prefer to Bore Clean every 10-20 rounds, but that's just personal preference, and that's only if I have the time. At minimium, every 25 rounds.

Quote:
After the Bore is free of copper fouling and no more blue shows on the patches, I run a Dry patch to remove most of the Solvent, then an Oil Soaked Patch, then a Dry Patch to remove most of the oil.

Also, work Your Solvent out of something. I work Solvent out of a Stainless Steel Kitchen Spoon Rest. The SS Spoon Rest is stable, plenty of space/capacity to work from. If You work Your Solvent out of the Original Solvent Bottle, dipping the Brush and/or Dirty Patches in it, You will weaken the Solvent.
.

Last edited by Shane Tuttle; November 5, 2009 at 08:36 PM. Reason: response to language
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Old November 5, 2009, 12:34 AM   #3
Sport45
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Your method isn't a lot different from mine except the first patch I run through is on a loop to soak the bore. I find a jag squeezes too much solvent out and doesn't leave the bore wet enough. I'll let the solvent do its stuff for 5-10 minutes and then brush with a wet bronze brush before running patches on a jag.

I use Ed's Red for most cleaning and use a commercial (Shooters Choice) copper solvent as needed.
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Old November 5, 2009, 12:37 AM   #4
bryceh12321
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Quote:
I do find Your method to be good. If Your barrel is stainless, I'd keep the degreaser to a mild one, but if it's not stainless, don't degrease. Leave an oil film.
Yeah, I'm pretty happy with the way I'm doing things; all the way from making sure [it's] unloaded to swabbing with Rem Oil.

What would anyone recommend for getting down in those nooks and cranny's? I was particularly concerned with a little groove right where the chamber starts. It looked like there was a bunch of residue in there today that I couldn't get out for the life of me. Compressed Air???

Last edited by Shane Tuttle; November 5, 2009 at 08:36 PM. Reason: language
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Old November 5, 2009, 12:40 AM   #5
Swampghost
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Same method for 50+ yrs.

Hoppe's #9 on brass bristles with brass rod.
Run dry patches until clean.
Run RemOil patches until clean.

Run dry patches prior to shooting.

I just hunt but have accumulated a few rifles that will stay inside of a 1" cover dot @ 200 yds.
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Old November 5, 2009, 07:44 AM   #6
Doyle
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Can I add one more suggestion. Go to the hardware store and find some rubber tubing that is the approximate outer diameter as the cartridge for your caliber. Cut it long enough that it will reach from the chamber all the way out to the back bolt hole. Insert the tubing before you start running wet patches into the barrel. This way, any excess chemical doesn't drip into the magazine well.
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Old November 5, 2009, 01:09 PM   #7
bryceh12321
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Quote:
Can I add one more suggestion. Go to the hardware store and find some rubber tubing that is the approximate outer diameter as the cartridge for your caliber. Cut it long enough that it will reach from the chamber all the way out to the back bolt hole. Insert the tubing before you start running wet patches into the barrel. This way, any excess chemical doesn't drip into the magazine well.
Yeah, I still have to find a good bore guide. The ones I looked at on Cabela's all had negative reviews, so I'm still looking. But I hear you on that one Doyle.
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Old November 5, 2009, 01:15 PM   #8
Christchild
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I use a Dewey Bore Saver 13" Bore Guide. Good Price and Flawless. Works like a Bore Gude should.
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Old November 5, 2009, 01:35 PM   #9
Doyle
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I have never seen the need for a commercial bore guide. Plain old rubber hose works just as well and is so cheap it's almost free.
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Old November 5, 2009, 04:29 PM   #10
James R. Burke
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Sounds good. The last step with the oil I would leave in till your ready to shoot it. Then I would run the dry patch thru it then. A few fouling shots and you are there. But you are doing a good job!
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