PA-63 Slide Problem

buckaneer · February 19, 2009, 11:12 AM

Hi
Hope someone can help with this one. I have a Hungarian PA-63 and I cannot rack the slide unless the hammer is cocked. When the hammer block is engaged, it will work ok. It looks like the hammer block (when not engaged) is catching on the hammer. Any suggestions? Should I smooth either the hammer edge or hammer block edge?

Thanks
Buck

CSHammond · February 22, 2009, 12:43 PM

Why don't you take a few detailed pictures of the insides of the frame and slide area where you are having problems, and maybe someone who has one like myself or others will see something that is wrong or out of place.

Otherwise I would take it to someone in person. Its always harder to solve a problem this way.

gunney 67 · February 25, 2009, 03:43 PM

My guess is that the interface surfaces between the hammer block and hammer are clashing when the hammer block is rotated down in the fire position. they will not clash when in the blocked position. Try stoning the two interface surfaces. you can see how they fit together by looking at them carefully. DO NOT overdo it! Don't change them, just stone them to relieve the tendancy for the hammer block to catch on the hammer. PS be very careful when disassembling this gun so as not to lose one or both of the two small pins that the double action sear articulates on.They will fall off as soon as the grips are removed, and can be lost. I lost one for two monthes before I accidently found it and couldn't figure out where it belonged, but I was amazed at how much better the trigger pull was when everything was lined up again! It's a great little accurate gun for a very reasonable price, but the commies really don't put much truck in hand polishing.

gunney 67 · February 25, 2009, 04:16 PM

My guess is that the interface surfaces between the hammer block and hammer are clashing when the hammer block is rotated down in the fire position. they will not clash when in the blocked position. Try stoning the two interface surfaces. you can see how they fit together by looking at them carefully. DO NOT overdo it! Don't change them, just stone them to relieve the tendancy for the hammer block to catch on the hammer. PS be very careful when disassembling this gun so as not to lose one or both of the two small pins that the double action sear articulates on.They will fall off as soon as the grips are removed, and can be lost. I lost one for two monthes before I accidently found it and couldn't figure out where it belonged, but I was amazed at how much better the trigger pull was when everything was lined up again! It's a great little accurate gun for a very reasonable price, but the commies really don't put much truck in hand polishing.

gunney 67 · February 25, 2009, 04:24 PM

My guess is that the interface surfaces between the hammer block and hammer are clashing when the hammer block is rotated down in the fire position. they will not clash when in the blocked position. Try stoning the two interface surfaces. you can see how they fit together by looking at them carefully. DO NOT overdo it! Don't change them, just stone them to relieve the tendancy for the hammer block to catch on the hammer. PS be very careful when disassembling this gun so as not to lose one or both of the two small pins that the double action sear articulates on.They will fall off as soon as the grips are removed, and can be lost. I lost one for two monthes before I accidently found it and couldn't figure out where it belonged, but I was amazed at how much better the trigger pull was when everything was lined up again! It's a great little accurate gun for a very reasonable price, but the commies really don't put much truck in hand polishing.

gunney 67 · February 26, 2009, 12:11 PM

sorry about all this. I'm a computer dummy.

woad_yurt · February 27, 2009, 08:12 PM

Take out the recoil spring and rack it very slowly. You should be able to see where it hangs up much more easily without all of the spring pressure. Have you really cleaned it out, like totally? A good soak and swirl in some kerosene has done wonders for me.

James K · February 27, 2009, 10:16 PM

It looks to me that what might be catching is not the hammer block but the firing pin, catching under the lip of the hammer. The firing pin on that gun moves upward against a spring when the trigger is pulled or when the slide is pulled back. It is pushed up by that little pin in the middle of the frame ahead of the hammer. If that is not present or not working the firing pin won't be pushed up and I think it could catch on the hammer. You can check that pin with the slide off.

Jim

February 19, 2009, 11:12 AM	#1
buckaneer Junior Member Join Date: February 19, 2009 Posts: 1	PA-63 Slide Problem Hi Hope someone can help with this one. I have a Hungarian PA-63 and I cannot rack the slide unless the hammer is cocked. When the hammer block is engaged, it will work ok. It looks like the hammer block (when not engaged) is catching on the hammer. Any suggestions? Should I smooth either the hammer edge or hammer block edge? Thanks Buck

February 25, 2009, 03:43 PM	#3
gunney 67 Member Join Date: July 21, 2008 Location: boise idaho Posts: 77	PA-63 My guess is that the interface surfaces between the hammer block and hammer are clashing when the hammer block is rotated down in the fire position. they will not clash when in the blocked position. Try stoning the two interface surfaces. you can see how they fit together by looking at them carefully. DO NOT overdo it! Don't change them, just stone them to relieve the tendancy for the hammer block to catch on the hammer. PS be very careful when disassembling this gun so as not to lose one or both of the two small pins that the double action sear articulates on.They will fall off as soon as the grips are removed, and can be lost. I lost one for two monthes before I accidently found it and couldn't figure out where it belonged, but I was amazed at how much better the trigger pull was when everything was lined up again! It's a great little accurate gun for a very reasonable price, but the commies really don't put much truck in hand polishing.

February 25, 2009, 04:16 PM	#4
gunney 67 Member Join Date: July 21, 2008 Location: boise idaho Posts: 77	PA-63 My guess is that the interface surfaces between the hammer block and hammer are clashing when the hammer block is rotated down in the fire position. they will not clash when in the blocked position. Try stoning the two interface surfaces. you can see how they fit together by looking at them carefully. DO NOT overdo it! Don't change them, just stone them to relieve the tendancy for the hammer block to catch on the hammer. PS be very careful when disassembling this gun so as not to lose one or both of the two small pins that the double action sear articulates on.They will fall off as soon as the grips are removed, and can be lost. I lost one for two monthes before I accidently found it and couldn't figure out where it belonged, but I was amazed at how much better the trigger pull was when everything was lined up again! It's a great little accurate gun for a very reasonable price, but the commies really don't put much truck in hand polishing. Last edited by gunney 67; February 25, 2009 at 04:20 PM. Reason: submitted twice

February 25, 2009, 04:24 PM	#5
gunney 67 Member Join Date: July 21, 2008 Location: boise idaho Posts: 77	PA-63 My guess is that the interface surfaces between the hammer block and hammer are clashing when the hammer block is rotated down in the fire position. they will not clash when in the blocked position. Try stoning the two interface surfaces. you can see how they fit together by looking at them carefully. DO NOT overdo it! Don't change them, just stone them to relieve the tendancy for the hammer block to catch on the hammer. PS be very careful when disassembling this gun so as not to lose one or both of the two small pins that the double action sear articulates on.They will fall off as soon as the grips are removed, and can be lost. I lost one for two monthes before I accidently found it and couldn't figure out where it belonged, but I was amazed at how much better the trigger pull was when everything was lined up again! It's a great little accurate gun for a very reasonable price, but the commies really don't put much truck in hand polishing.

February 27, 2009, 08:12 PM	#7
woad_yurt Senior Member Join Date: February 15, 2008 Posts: 1,206	Take out the recoil spring and rack it very slowly. You should be able to see where it hangs up much more easily without all of the spring pressure. Have you really cleaned it out, like totally? A good soak and swirl in some kerosene has done wonders for me. __________________ A Makarov? Simple, easy and works perfectly every time. ¡Vale!

February 22, 2009, 12:43 PM	#2
CSHammond Member Join Date: January 3, 2009 Location: Iowa Posts: 54	Why don't you take a few detailed pictures of the insides of the frame and slide area where you are having problems, and maybe someone who has one like myself or others will see something that is wrong or out of place. Otherwise I would take it to someone in person. Its always harder to solve a problem this way.

February 26, 2009, 12:11 PM	#6
gunney 67 Member Join Date: July 21, 2008 Location: boise idaho Posts: 77	sorry about all this. I'm a computer dummy.

February 27, 2009, 10:16 PM	#8
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	It looks to me that what might be catching is not the hammer block but the firing pin, catching under the lip of the hammer. The firing pin on that gun moves upward against a spring when the trigger is pulled or when the slide is pulled back. It is pushed up by that little pin in the middle of the frame ahead of the hammer. If that is not present or not working the firing pin won't be pushed up and I think it could catch on the hammer. You can check that pin with the slide off. Jim