EXTREMELY stuck wedge pin

steelbird · June 15, 2011, 01:43 PM

Hello All,

Well, I've got a wedge pin on my Pietta Colt 1860 that is completely stuck. Tried the usual mallet tap to no avail. I just got the T/C wedge puller/nippple remover, but the claw seems to be too small to pull the wedge out. Is there some trick to using this thing that I'm not seeing here?
Another part-it's also got a broken part-the piece that advances the cylinder (the hand? - can't remember the name of that part ). Where can I get replacement parts? Dixie Gun Works, perhaps?

Shotput79 · June 15, 2011, 02:31 PM

For parts I think Cabela's is best. They back up what they send. They carry parts for Colt, Remington New Army, and about anything you need. The wedge take two wood blocks lay the revolver with the wedge between them take a wooden clothes pin apart and a small hammer just keep taping it. Might help to put some kind of brake free on it. it may take a little while, but I think it will finely give way. Just keep hitting that clothes pin. Let me know how it goes. Dell

steelbird · June 15, 2011, 02:56 PM

Thanks- I've got plenty of Break Free- I'll give that a try.

tpelle · June 15, 2011, 03:44 PM

Last I looked (just last week or so), Cabelas didn't have parts for the 1860 - out of stock. On the other hand, check http://www.vtigunparts.com/ . I've ordered from them and had great service.

BTW, are you looking for the wedge pin (the pin that holds the wedge spring in the wedge) or the entire wedge itself?

steelbird · June 15, 2011, 06:08 PM

It's not the wedge that needs replacing- it's just stuck. The part that advances the cylinder ( attached to the hammer ) is what needs to be replaced. The Cabelas listing said that the parts were for the Colt, but the photo showed Remmie parts.

steelbird · June 15, 2011, 06:48 PM

Got the pin out!

Now I need and have to wait for the replacement part.....

Guess the Remmie will get some more time on the range.

Andy Griffith · June 15, 2011, 07:10 PM

It's likely you need a hand and spring assembly.

The parts kits from Cabellas is the best deal rather than buying individual parts.

I really like VTI as they always have nearly every part in stock and ship quickly...but they usually are far more expensive than other suppliers.

Shotput79 · June 15, 2011, 09:34 PM

Is this a new revolver or one you've had a while? I'm was wondering why the wedge was stuck. I know that I had heard they were hard to get out from just about every one on the Cabela's review pages they have for each revolver. I have four Colts that I bought from them over the years, and never had a problem with them till I ordered the 51 Colt .36 Navy. That one was in really good, but I have got all of them out the first time with the two blocks with the revolver laying on them and the clothes pins. I've read every review on Cabela's site for there BP revolvers. On the colt revolvers you would not believe the stuff people do to get wedges out of those revolvers, I don't put mine through that. Most want to take a steel hammer, a steel, or brass punche and beat them out. Then talk about the damage, and other stuff that happen when they did them that why. With the clothes pins you just take them apart turn the small end to the wedge and a small hammer and try tapping at first then if they need you can hit harder. The worst thing you will ever do to your revolver is clean out a little wood from the slot. Your wedge is out and the finish on your revolver will be just as it was when you started. Some may need a little help with brake free or some kind of oil on an older revolver that someone let rust in place, but that's about it. Lot of people send new revolvers back cause they can't get them out. Oh well. Sorry I got long winded. Hope you have good luck with your revolver. Shotput.

Oh for I leave Dixie Gun Works is a good place. And I see others have told you about a few others.

madcratebuilder · June 16, 2011, 06:37 AM

Quote:

I just got the T/C wedge puller/nippple remover

Those are for rifle stock wedges. If you know anyone with a small arbor press it well remove the wedge very easily.

Hellgate · June 16, 2011, 04:20 PM

I have always used the dege of a brass/bronze house key as a drift to remove stubborn wedges. That way I'm never hitting th barrel with iron and the narrowedge of the key fits into the wedge slot well. I use the part of the key you hold onto to pound out the wedge.

steelbird · June 16, 2011, 08:14 PM

Yes, I'm an idiot- part of the problem was a failure to do a prompt cleanup, and there was some corrosion. But I did clean it off. I'll soon see if it shoots OK, as VTI sent me an email stating that the handspring is on the way.

Gehrhard · June 16, 2011, 08:30 PM

On these, you may have horizontal as well as vertical pressure on the wedge so a lot of lube is good.

A comment on hitting things. But first a boring story. Poor dumb old illiterate janitor was sent to put reflective stakes in the frozen ground so cars wouldn't crash into the snow-covered cement curbs in the parking lot. He pushed on the top. The aluminum stake bowed and wouldn't go into the hardened earth. He kept doing it. Over and over. He finally left. I saw him coming back with a sledge hammer. I called people over. He hit the top. The stake bowed. We watched him do the same thing for 10 minutes till our sides hurt and WE left. Gun guys do this all the time...

To protect the finish and internals of our guns we often pad them very well when we have to hit them somewhere. The padding absorbs the imapct and we are not effective. May even skip a punch across that now-moving target. To move a wedge the gun around it HAS to stay still! Protect the finish but realize this fact!

enyaw · June 17, 2011, 09:47 AM

I've seen that on the new guns and older ones the "wedge spring tip" is upright at about a 90 degree. It finally bevels the upper barrel slot to make a relief for it to come out. Filing a bevel on the spring tip to help it retract into the wedges slot and go into the barrel/arbor slot works well to avoid more stuck wedges.
It's almost always that wedge spring tip holding the wedge in. It does need modified but.....if you keep beating the wedge in then out the spring tip acts lke a broach and moves metal away from the upper barrel slot right on the edge....makes a nice bevel right in the right spot. ha ha ha ha
You can examine the barrels upper slot edge there on the off side and...hasten the tip of the spring making a bevel to the slot edge with a file. The spot is well marked by the first time the wedge spring finally does pass by the barrels slot edge.
Hope this helps.
Regards and so long,
Enyaw

bear108 · June 18, 2011, 01:39 PM

I have a Uberti 1860 army, that had a few broken parts in it. I ordered parts from Dixie and gun works great now. Can't say I know a tremendous amount able it all, but I am happy.

June 15, 2011, 01:43 PM	#1
steelbird Senior Member Join Date: July 19, 2010 Posts: 180	EXTREMELY stuck wedge pin Hello All, Well, I've got a wedge pin on my Pietta Colt 1860 that is completely stuck. Tried the usual mallet tap to no avail. I just got the T/C wedge puller/nippple remover, but the claw seems to be too small to pull the wedge out. Is there some trick to using this thing that I'm not seeing here? Another part-it's also got a broken part-the piece that advances the cylinder (the hand? - can't remember the name of that part ). Where can I get replacement parts? Dixie Gun Works, perhaps?

June 15, 2011, 02:31 PM	#2
Shotput79 Senior Member Join Date: March 20, 2011 Location: NC Posts: 186	So you need help to For parts I think Cabela's is best. They back up what they send. They carry parts for Colt, Remington New Army, and about anything you need. The wedge take two wood blocks lay the revolver with the wedge between them take a wooden clothes pin apart and a small hammer just keep taping it. Might help to put some kind of brake free on it. it may take a little while, but I think it will finely give way. Just keep hitting that clothes pin. Let me know how it goes. Dell

June 15, 2011, 07:10 PM	#7
Andy Griffith Senior Member Join Date: May 14, 2009 Location: Macon Co. NC Posts: 591	It's likely you need a hand and spring assembly. The parts kits from Cabellas is the best deal rather than buying individual parts. I really like VTI as they always have nearly every part in stock and ship quickly...but they usually are far more expensive than other suppliers. __________________ Barney Fife: "Nip it, nip it, nip it!" Andy Griffith:"Oh now Barn'...."

June 15, 2011, 09:34 PM	#8
Shotput79 Senior Member Join Date: March 20, 2011 Location: NC Posts: 186	Steelbird Is this a new revolver or one you've had a while? I'm was wondering why the wedge was stuck. I know that I had heard they were hard to get out from just about every one on the Cabela's review pages they have for each revolver. I have four Colts that I bought from them over the years, and never had a problem with them till I ordered the 51 Colt .36 Navy. That one was in really good, but I have got all of them out the first time with the two blocks with the revolver laying on them and the clothes pins. I've read every review on Cabela's site for there BP revolvers. On the colt revolvers you would not believe the stuff people do to get wedges out of those revolvers, I don't put mine through that. Most want to take a steel hammer, a steel, or brass punche and beat them out. Then talk about the damage, and other stuff that happen when they did them that why. With the clothes pins you just take them apart turn the small end to the wedge and a small hammer and try tapping at first then if they need you can hit harder. The worst thing you will ever do to your revolver is clean out a little wood from the slot. Your wedge is out and the finish on your revolver will be just as it was when you started. Some may need a little help with brake free or some kind of oil on an older revolver that someone let rust in place, but that's about it. Lot of people send new revolvers back cause they can't get them out. Oh well. Sorry I got long winded. Hope you have good luck with your revolver. Shotput. Oh for I leave Dixie Gun Works is a good place. And I see others have told you about a few others.

June 16, 2011, 04:20 PM	#10
Hellgate Senior Member Join Date: November 18, 2010 Location: Orygun Posts: 869	I have always used the dege of a brass/bronze house key as a drift to remove stubborn wedges. That way I'm never hitting th barrel with iron and the narrowedge of the key fits into the wedge slot well. I use the part of the key you hold onto to pound out the wedge. __________________ With over 15 perCUSSIN' revolvers, I've been called the Imelda Marcos of cap & ball. SASS#3302 (Life), SASS Regulator, NRA (Life), Dirty Gamey Bastards #129 Wolverton Mtn. Peacekeepers (WA), former Orygun Cowboy (Ranger, Posse from Hell)

June 15, 2011, 02:56 PM	#3
steelbird Senior Member Join Date: July 19, 2010 Posts: 180	Thanks- I've got plenty of Break Free- I'll give that a try.

June 15, 2011, 03:44 PM	#4
tpelle Senior Member Join Date: November 18, 2009 Posts: 120	Last I looked (just last week or so), Cabelas didn't have parts for the 1860 - out of stock. On the other hand, check http://www.vtigunparts.com/ . I've ordered from them and had great service. BTW, are you looking for the wedge pin (the pin that holds the wedge spring in the wedge) or the entire wedge itself?

June 15, 2011, 06:08 PM	#5
steelbird Senior Member Join Date: July 19, 2010 Posts: 180	It's not the wedge that needs replacing- it's just stuck. The part that advances the cylinder ( attached to the hammer ) is what needs to be replaced. The Cabelas listing said that the parts were for the Colt, but the photo showed Remmie parts.

June 15, 2011, 06:48 PM	#6
steelbird Senior Member Join Date: July 19, 2010 Posts: 180	Got the pin out! Now I need and have to wait for the replacement part..... Guess the Remmie will get some more time on the range.

June 16, 2011, 08:14 PM	#11
steelbird Senior Member Join Date: July 19, 2010 Posts: 180	Yes, I'm an idiot- part of the problem was a failure to do a prompt cleanup, and there was some corrosion. But I did clean it off. I'll soon see if it shoots OK, as VTI sent me an email stating that the handspring is on the way.

June 16, 2011, 08:30 PM	#12
Gehrhard Junior member Join Date: July 15, 2009 Location: East of the Missississippippi Posts: 675	On these, you may have horizontal as well as vertical pressure on the wedge so a lot of lube is good. A comment on hitting things. But first a boring story. Poor dumb old illiterate janitor was sent to put reflective stakes in the frozen ground so cars wouldn't crash into the snow-covered cement curbs in the parking lot. He pushed on the top. The aluminum stake bowed and wouldn't go into the hardened earth. He kept doing it. Over and over. He finally left. I saw him coming back with a sledge hammer. I called people over. He hit the top. The stake bowed. We watched him do the same thing for 10 minutes till our sides hurt and WE left. Gun guys do this all the time... To protect the finish and internals of our guns we often pad them very well when we have to hit them somewhere. The padding absorbs the imapct and we are not effective. May even skip a punch across that now-moving target. To move a wedge the gun around it HAS to stay still! Protect the finish but realize this fact!

June 17, 2011, 09:47 AM	#13
enyaw Senior Member Join Date: November 28, 2008 Posts: 134	I've seen that on the new guns and older ones the "wedge spring tip" is upright at about a 90 degree. It finally bevels the upper barrel slot to make a relief for it to come out. Filing a bevel on the spring tip to help it retract into the wedges slot and go into the barrel/arbor slot works well to avoid more stuck wedges. It's almost always that wedge spring tip holding the wedge in. It does need modified but.....if you keep beating the wedge in then out the spring tip acts lke a broach and moves metal away from the upper barrel slot right on the edge....makes a nice bevel right in the right spot. ha ha ha ha You can examine the barrels upper slot edge there on the off side and...hasten the tip of the spring making a bevel to the slot edge with a file. The spot is well marked by the first time the wedge spring finally does pass by the barrels slot edge. Hope this helps. Regards and so long, Enyaw

June 18, 2011, 01:39 PM	#14
bear108 Member Join Date: April 17, 2011 Posts: 18	Parts I have a Uberti 1860 army, that had a few broken parts in it. I ordered parts from Dixie and gun works great now. Can't say I know a tremendous amount able it all, but I am happy.