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April 1, 2012, 09:35 PM | #1 |
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Reloading for a bushmaster AR .223
Bought my first AR the other day and was wondering about reloading for it. I have been reloading for a while but never reloaded for a semiauto gun. Problems, Things to look for, things to do?? ....Other than full length resizing
**Im wanting to load up some 55 gr nosler balistic tips |
April 1, 2012, 10:05 PM | #2 |
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Dont buy expensive brass is about all I can think of.... Probably a good idea to get a lee factory crimp die, at least, It couldnt hurt and they are cheap so why not?
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April 2, 2012, 01:04 AM | #3 |
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Need to inspect each case for excessive dents or cracks. Full length resize, buzz out the military crimp if necessary. Trim to 1.75. FCD is optional, not necessary but gives marginally more consistent groups. Make sure you seat the bullet so the rounds fit in your particular magazines.
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April 2, 2012, 04:53 AM | #4 | |
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Quote:
Might try 24.5 grs of Varget with a Hornaday V max 55gr bullet started with a Remington 7 1/2 and see what happens. No Federal brass.
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April 2, 2012, 05:43 AM | #5 |
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I get peace of mind at least with a lee factory crimp die plus I agree with chris in va. that from round to round the crimp makes the round shoot more consistently. I have also reloaded and shot thousands of rounds of .223 and a good bit of those were federal (FC) brass. I dont get what peoples gripe with federal is. I have reloaded some peices of federal brass at least 4 times without issue. I guess some folks just dont like them, dont know why. Its brass.
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April 2, 2012, 09:14 AM | #6 |
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Im with bamashooter on the federal brass....I use it for 22-250, 243, 308, 30-06, 270 wsm, and 300 wsm with no problems at all. Is there some specific reason for no federal brass in an AR or personal opinion?
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April 2, 2012, 02:24 PM | #7 |
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Federal 223 brass is soft and if you cut one apart you will see how thin it is at the primer pocket and web area. Federal brass is also very heavy. I have no issues with Federal brass in other calibers.
You can shoot it but Federal 223 brass cost me some points at Camp Perry in 2007. I have not used it since. I am a careful reloader and when it comes to ammo for a match, I weigh each charge and depending on the distance to the target I might weigh the brass. One thing to consider with your FCD, if you make a visible crimp to a match bullet with no place to crimp, you deform the jacket and disturb the bond with the lead in the bullet IMHO. Not a real problem with a slow moving bullet. There is too much hype with the FCD as the fix all die. I had one didn’t like it, didn’t need it some 20 years ago.
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April 2, 2012, 04:27 PM | #8 |
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Work up a few loads if you are looking for extreme accuracy. Each gun likes a little different recipe. One of mine LOVES the recipe Tim mentioned but another does not at all. 2 brands but both 16 inch.
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April 2, 2012, 08:50 PM | #9 |
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You should full length resize all brass you cycle through your AR. Which model Bushy did you buy. I've got a Varminter and it love Ramshot X-Terminter under a Barnes or Hornady 55 grain bullet.
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April 2, 2012, 09:24 PM | #10 |
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I'm no expert but I do know that if you shoot a bullet down the barrel of a rifle - the jacket gets deformed, it's even possible that you may disturb the bond between the lead core and the jacket. Just so you know before you ruin those perfect little pills by shooting them...
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April 2, 2012, 09:33 PM | #11 |
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I get my brass from polygunbags.com. I just got 500 rounds of pulled military already primed and all I had to do was use a collet die to resize the neck. I've bought most of my rifle brass for my ARs and M1 Garand.
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April 2, 2012, 10:00 PM | #12 | |
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Quote:
its no use trying to explain it, believe me..... To much talk about the FCD's and next thing you know someone will post that pic of a bunch of bullets that were "ruined" by a lee FCD that was obviously adjusted as tight as it would go and then some as "proof positive" that they are evil .... |
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April 2, 2012, 11:29 PM | #13 | |
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OK, so bullets were made to go one way. Maybe I did not explain my theory well but in an effort to be smart you subverted what I was saying. Still I have never needed a FCD. Owned one gave it away. I don't shoot steel; I shoot paper and like to put as many bullets as I can through the same hole. This is my goal, nothing more. What works for you has not worked for me. It could be because of the difference in equipment. How many guys setting National records use a FCD? None.
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God Bless our Troops especially our Snipers. Last edited by Tim R; April 2, 2012 at 11:42 PM. |
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April 3, 2012, 12:17 AM | #14 | |
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Quote:
Jim
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April 3, 2012, 06:49 AM | #15 |
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lube your cases good. I only have had stuck cases reloading the .223/5.56.
I don't reload any other rifle but lots of handgun loads.
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April 3, 2012, 07:20 AM | #16 |
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I read on AR15.com that it is not necessary to crimp 223 other than a taper crimp, do you guys feel this is true or false ?
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April 3, 2012, 08:21 AM | #17 | |
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Quote:
But that is just me. Jim
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April 3, 2012, 03:55 PM | #18 |
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In all seriousness, there's only one way to know if a crimp of any sort is good or bad for you, and your load, is to test it both ways and see. There is no one-size-fits-all answer.
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April 3, 2012, 08:59 PM | #19 | ||
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Here is the deal. I shoot High Power. If the top shooters are using a crimp, everyone follows. If a top shooter is using case such & such which weights 61.24 grains, everyone will find such & such cases weighing 61.24 grs or as close to it as possible. If the top shooters eat a corn dog 15 minutes before going to the line, you will have point hunrgy shooters eating corn dogs 15 minutes before they report to the line. Remember when moly was the hot deal? Don’t hear so much about it today. We are back to shooting naked bullets with the exception of a few die hards. Why? Copper is easier than cleaning moly with copper in between layers of moly fouling. If you are shooting military ball type bullets with a crimp groove then a crimp would be or could be in order. But if you are loading for the next match, no crimp. My 2 cents. Quote:
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April 5, 2012, 12:07 PM | #20 |
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Its a 223 and a carbon AR-15.......SO LIGHT
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April 5, 2012, 12:15 PM | #21 | |
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Quote:
Jim
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April 5, 2012, 12:16 PM | #22 |
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Oh, back to your question.
If 223 then get an RCBS X-Small Base die to resize those cases. Jim
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April 5, 2012, 02:39 PM | #23 |
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I would say get a good quality case lube. Lube all of the cases outside, and inside the mouth. Also save the trouble and agony just buy a stuck case removal kit now. If you end up needing it, and have it right there it is worth its weight in gold. If you end up having to buy one later it leads to real painful experience when trying to find one when the stores are sold out, and you have to order it from online sources.
With .223 there are 3 camps. 1 Those who have stuck at least one case. 2 Those who eventualy stick one some how. 3 Those who LIE.
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April 5, 2012, 04:41 PM | #24 |
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I like the LFCD with mine also. If your bullets have no cannelure it can be adjusted to however light a crimp you need. I would bet most of us here aren't shooting high power at Camp Perry or even compete so it probably won't be necessary to load as if we are. Using Hornady 55 gr FMJ and H335 I can get groups slightly under an inch out of my 16" Bushmaster (on a good day).
IMHO, if all you want t do is have fun, loading .223 with equipment from any of the well known manufacturers will easily get you there. TimR, I'd be interested to know how Federal brass caused your problems in competition? Last edited by Striker1; April 6, 2012 at 04:00 PM. |
April 6, 2012, 12:28 AM | #25 |
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I've used Imperial sizing lube for a good many years and never stuck a single case. Oh, I also use a Lee FCD with a very light crimp. Works for me.
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