Knife question

mdlowry · May 8, 2002, 08:22 PM

I have an older Case knife that was my fathers. It has a carbon steel blade that I'm trying to clean up at the moment. It was rusted and had some very minor pitting on it. I'm using fine (600grit) sand paper on it and it's starting to look better. There is still some rust that is in the pitting that isn't coming off very fast. Am I doing this right? I'm also thinking of bluing this when I'm finished.

It's a slow night at work. . .

Moderators:
I was wondering if this might be better in the smithy forum.

Quartus · May 8, 2002, 08:46 PM

Use some good cutting oil with that. Sharpening oil is fine. Emory cloth in 1000 grit after you get tired of the 600 sandpaper. Fine steel wool to finish up.

As for bluing, I haven't seen any cold blue that looked any good to me.

Coronach · May 8, 2002, 09:12 PM

www.bladeforums.com

Think TFL, for knives.

Mike

AK103K · May 9, 2002, 04:59 AM

I have restored a couple of fixed blade knives by glass beading the blade and parkerizing the knife afterwards. They came out nice. If the knife is a folder, I dont know how well it would work as you need to put it in a hot tank. I have done leather handled knives this way, just wrapped the handle in duct tape, with no ill effects. Glass beading is the only way to go to get the rust out and not remove to much metal. It may remove "minor" pitting, depending on the bead size. It will leave the metal in a "satin" finish. Check with your local gunsmith, machinist, or auto body shop for access to one.

jimsbowies · May 9, 2002, 07:52 AM

You never know...you could have a valuable old Case...depends on the pattern number and "case" markings....you might want to got to www.bladeforums. com and ask the experts to identify what you've got before you attempt an amateur refurbishing....

Just IMHO

George Hill · May 9, 2002, 07:30 PM

11 bucks you can buy a polishing kit for yor Dremmel. If you don't have a Dremmel, they are cheap and worth it.

Polishing a little knife blade with that kit would only take about 10 mintes to have a perfect finish.

hso · May 11, 2002, 12:16 AM

I'll second the bladeforums advise. Try a brass wire brush with light oil and remember to clean the blade after each "restoration" session with lots of oil as any rust will result in further rusting. Switch to steel wool when all the rust is dislodged or go to fine emory cloth. Put a lot of effort into the brush and polishing stages. You may not want to return it to a factory finish since that takes all the history off of the old fellas face so go to progressivly finer sand/emory grits until you're satisfied that it looks well loved. I wouldn't advise using any power tools as it's easier to polish metal off than put it back on. Once you have the finish you want keep it coated with White Lightning or Sentry Solutions protectant.

May 8, 2002, 08:22 PM	#1
mdlowry Senior Member Join Date: December 15, 2001 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 417	Knife question I have an older Case knife that was my fathers. It has a carbon steel blade that I'm trying to clean up at the moment. It was rusted and had some very minor pitting on it. I'm using fine (600grit) sand paper on it and it's starting to look better. There is still some rust that is in the pitting that isn't coming off very fast. Am I doing this right? I'm also thinking of bluing this when I'm finished. It's a slow night at work. . . Moderators: I was wondering if this might be better in the smithy forum. __________________ My PGP key

May 8, 2002, 08:46 PM	#2
Quartus Senior Member Join Date: May 8, 2001 Location: Virginia Posts: 3,823	Use some good cutting oil with that. Sharpening oil is fine. Emory cloth in 1000 grit after you get tired of the 600 sandpaper. Fine steel wool to finish up. As for bluing, I haven't seen any cold blue that looked any good to me. __________________ . Better to know what you don't know than to think you know what you don't know.

May 8, 2002, 09:12 PM	#3
Coronach Senior Member Join Date: March 25, 1999 Posts: 3,147	www.bladeforums.com Think TFL, for knives. Mike __________________ The axe bites into the door, ripping a hole in one panel. The maniac puts his face into the hole, cackling gleefully, "Here's Johnny...erk." "And here's Smith and Wesson," murmurs Coronach, Mozambiquing six rounds of .357 into the critter at a range of three feet. -Lawdog "True pacifism is the finest form of manliness. But if a man comes up to you and cuts your hand off, you don't just offer him the other one. Not if you want to go on playing the piano, you don't." -Sam Peckinpah "A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects." -Robert Heinlein

May 9, 2002, 07:52 AM	#5
jimsbowies Senior Member Join Date: January 9, 2002 Location: Charlotte Posts: 332	check the pattern number You never know...you could have a valuable old Case...depends on the pattern number and "case" markings....you might want to got to www.bladeforums. com and ask the experts to identify what you've got before you attempt an amateur refurbishing.... Just IMHO

May 9, 2002, 07:30 PM	#6
George Hill Staff Alumnus Join Date: October 14, 1998 Location: North Carolina Posts: 11,546	11 bucks you can buy a polishing kit for yor Dremmel. If you don't have a Dremmel, they are cheap and worth it. Polishing a little knife blade with that kit would only take about 10 mintes to have a perfect finish. __________________ MAD OGRE

May 9, 2002, 04:59 AM	#4
AK103K Senior Member Join Date: May 1, 2001 Posts: 10,223	I have restored a couple of fixed blade knives by glass beading the blade and parkerizing the knife afterwards. They came out nice. If the knife is a folder, I dont know how well it would work as you need to put it in a hot tank. I have done leather handled knives this way, just wrapped the handle in duct tape, with no ill effects. Glass beading is the only way to go to get the rust out and not remove to much metal. It may remove "minor" pitting, depending on the bead size. It will leave the metal in a "satin" finish. Check with your local gunsmith, machinist, or auto body shop for access to one.

May 11, 2002, 12:16 AM	#7
hso Senior Member Join Date: May 10, 2002 Location: Appalachia Posts: 170	I'll second the bladeforums advise. Try a brass wire brush with light oil and remember to clean the blade after each "restoration" session with lots of oil as any rust will result in further rusting. Switch to steel wool when all the rust is dislodged or go to fine emory cloth. Put a lot of effort into the brush and polishing stages. You may not want to return it to a factory finish since that takes all the history off of the old fellas face so go to progressivly finer sand/emory grits until you're satisfied that it looks well loved. I wouldn't advise using any power tools as it's easier to polish metal off than put it back on. Once you have the finish you want keep it coated with White Lightning or Sentry Solutions protectant. __________________ TANSTAAFL

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