April 22, 2010, 07:43 AM | #26 |
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I have used the J-B Bore Bright to polish my dies for years and it works great . Saturate a bore mop with it put your cordless drill in low gear and go to it . Clean the dies first with a good bore cleaner ! Two or three mins. is usually sufficient, then clean again .
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April 22, 2010, 10:40 AM | #27 |
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Jepp2 brings up a good point about scratchy carbide dies; an exception to what I said about polishing them being pointless. Tungsten carbide is too hard to have anything embed in it, but cracks can occur, and there can be little flaws where the original pressed powder didn't fill in perfectly. Things can wedge or build up in it. Flakes off a nickel-plated case are the only thing I've had trouble with doing that, but other items are potential candidates.
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April 22, 2010, 11:32 AM | #28 |
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Unclenick
Your idea of the Shooter's Solutions MolyFusion product is interesting I looked at there website. Have you used this stuff? and if so what is your assessment of the product?. I am no longer working as an Engineer but I always open to new products. I have about 15 Steel resizing dies in 223 I am willing to test frictional coefficient test with them, load cell and strain gauge testing. I did a study several years ago with Slick 50 on heated dies, it resulted in no real improvement.
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April 22, 2010, 04:20 PM | #29 |
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When I first tried this stuff I used a Q-tip to treat a small spot on some 16 ga. steel sheet. When I dragged my nail across that metal it squeaked like a chalk board until I hit the treated dark spot, where it went silent and felt like I'd hit a patch of wax, despite the stuff being totally dry. I tore down and treated my whole Lee Hand Tool with the stuff, since it works on Aluminum as well as steel. Where the handle on that press used to stay in position by friction, it now falls open under its own weight. The difference is most immediately obvious screwing dies in. The original aluminum thread always felt a little rough, like there was sand in it. Now it feels like I'm screwing the die into an oiled steel thread. Much smoother.
I'd be interested to hear how your before and after testing goes? Another products, and one that only darkens porous finishes, like Parkerizing, is Sprinco's Plate Plus Silver. This is a hydrocarbon bonding lube with colloidal suspension of micronized, acid neutralized molybdenum disulphide. I've been using it to treat springs and any other material where I don't want any surface reaction and alteration taking place, such as on a mirror-finished object.
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