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Old January 25, 2014, 08:31 PM   #26
Wtlj
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Best gun coating?

Not sure why everyone is so against cerakote or other quality coatings. Has to be better than the crap finish I've had on my Kimbers. FYI the shop has a 5 year warranty!
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Old January 25, 2014, 10:38 PM   #27
johnwilliamson062
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What makes you think it holds up on interiors of barrels or on slides? I would love to see a gun with 70K rounds through it that has any cerakote left on any wear surfaces.
Actually, 10K would surprise me.
I would be surprised if there were no spots where it wore through after 5k.

I will clarify that Nitriding does not technically qualify as a coating as it is a material treatment. Nothing is added, rather the metal is changed.
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Old January 26, 2014, 03:41 AM   #28
Wtlj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnwilliamson062 View Post
What makes you think it holds up on interiors of barrels or on slides? I would love to see a gun with 70K rounds through it that has any cerakote left on any wear surfaces.
Actually, 10K would surprise me.
I would be surprised if there were no spots where it wore through after 5k.

I will clarify that Nitriding does not technically qualify as a coating as it is a material treatment. Nothing is added, rather the metal is changed.
Who said anything about the "interior" of barrels? Your one of those guys that don't even read the threads and just ramble aren't you?
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Old February 15, 2014, 05:33 PM   #29
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Well I promised pictures but she's not ready yet!
Here's a sneak peak after the Cerakoting. Ill be installing meprolight tactical wedge night sights and VZ grips shortly. My only hang up now is trying to decide on a vz grip pattern and profile!

Thanks for all the help guys. Ill be back with completed pictures from a real camera and not my iphone when she's done.
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Old February 15, 2014, 05:54 PM   #30
madmo44mag
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I have dura-coated several firearms and like any paint process it’s all in the prep.
The ones you see that did not hold up were not properly prepped prior to coating.
It does hold up even better if you bake the finish.
One thing that dura-coat does not tell you to do is to chemically surface etch the metal.
This gives microscopic pores for the coating to adhere too.
DuPont makes a number of chemicals suited for the different metals and plastics guns are made of to etch the surface. (Your local automotive paint supply can help you with this)
It is a simple process it just takes attention to detail and don’t rush.
Here is a picture of a LE 303 I did several months back that see a lot of use.
The only place that the coating has shown any wear is the receiver where the bolt contacts it. Of course this is to be expected considering every time the bolt moves it moves across this surface.
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Old September 25, 2015, 12:39 PM   #31
Carolina Kid
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Mahovsky's Metalife

Former owner of Sig 226 had it done but there was a few small areas that did not turn out perfect. Returned it to Metalife and they fixed it free of charge with turnaround in less than two weeks. Looks nice now.
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Old September 25, 2015, 01:33 PM   #32
Bill DeShivs
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It's a physical impossibility for paint to hold up as well as chrome (63 Rockwell "C" hardness.) Nitriding is even harder. Plating is molecularly bonded to the base metal. Nitriding is IN the metal.
Paint, no matter how you apply it or what is done to the subsurface, is just stuck to the metal, and it is not nearly as hard as the other treatments.
Even plain nickel plating is harder than paints, and holds up better.
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Old September 25, 2015, 02:03 PM   #33
9x18_Walther
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Not a fan of Cerakote.

This image isn't mine, but here is a Colt M45A1 CQBP with only 600 rounds fired.

http://i.imgur.com/G4ObdsP.jpg

This is a factory Cerakote job from Colt. As you can see where the brass has removed the finish during ejection.
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Old September 25, 2015, 03:18 PM   #34
Bill DeShivs
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I think some of the paints are better than bluing. They are all the rage with manufacturers now because the paint is a cheap way to finish the gun.
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Old September 26, 2015, 04:15 AM   #35
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Hot bluing is a black or black-blue colored iron oxide, or rust. So it will not peel or chip as a paint can, over its adherence, but bluing can wear off from constant handling, etc. over the years. Of course, you have to keep it clean and oiled. Especially, don't handle it with bloody hands, without quickly wiping it off.

One can always tell a shotgun, such as the model 12 Winchester, that has been hunted with a lot, as the bluing is worn around the bottom of the receiver, at the carrier, where the hand cups it by carrying it in the field. It takes a lot of handling to bring that to a gray patina.

For aluminum, I prefer anodizing, if it is done correctly. If it was allowed to build up a full honeycomb oxide, and a good dye is used, then sealed, it will last a good while.

Another tough finish is Parkerising. It was military approved.
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