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Old May 30, 2013, 08:29 PM   #1
Kappe
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Uberti Navy cylinder stops

Hi,

I just received a new Uberti 1851 Navy roughly a month ago. I special ordered it through my local gun shop which was a Uberti dealer. They had a beautiful stainless Remington .44 in the case, but I wanted a Colt Navy. The clerk told me it'd probably be about 3 months or more, but to both our surprise it arrived in just one. When I picked it up, he told me that Uberti's been really ramping up production recently. The frame is stamped with what looks to be "CL", which I assume is the Italian date code for 2013. Some of the other proof marks were stamped so light they're barely visible, but the rest of the gun, finish, fitting, etc. is absolutely pristine and the action functions perfectly.

I finally got to taking it to the range the other day and probably fired 4 or 5 full cylinders, so 24-30 shots. As I took it apart and gave it its first cleaning that night, I noticed these strange blemishes near the cylinder stop leads.
I hadn't noticed them before, nor have I seen them on any other revolver. They are on every cylinder stop, in the same exact location.

They don't appear to me to impede the revolver's function at all. I doubt anything I did at my short range session caused them, so I assume they're just some sort of imperfection such as tool marks during manufacture. The faint proof markings and remark by the clerk make me think so. I plan on antiquing this revolver anyway, so I'm not terribly worried about it. I'm still curious though, which is why I'm here.

Is anyone here familiar with these? Do you think they came from the factory? Are they just cosmetic? If not, would they be covered under warranty?

Thanks.
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Old May 30, 2013, 08:37 PM   #2
Beagle333
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Here ya go....

This comes up often. Here's the most recent time. I hope this helps. Ask questions after you read it if you need more help!
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=517468

and... Welcome to the forum!!!
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Old May 30, 2013, 08:45 PM   #3
Kappe
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Yes

I figured as much this had come up before, just couldn't find it. Yes, this makes sense and helps immensely.

Thank you very much.
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Old May 31, 2013, 05:21 AM   #4
Doc Hoy
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Kappe

Welcome to the forum

BTW:

I load all six at a time too.

I understand the recommendation to load only five for safety but I am so careless I could have a safe chamber and still shoot myself.

.


.

. . . .Just kidding guys




Also BTW: Those Pettifogger articles are good reading as a way of understanding in better detail how the revolver works. I feel like I am a pretty mechanical guy, but I got a lot of insight from the articles.
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Last edited by Doc Hoy; May 31, 2013 at 05:42 AM.
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Old May 31, 2013, 11:34 AM   #5
Fingers McGee
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Welcome to the forum Kappe. You got the straight skinney from Beagle and Doc.
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Old May 31, 2013, 02:18 PM   #6
James K
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When tuning those guns I 1) reshape the cylinder bolt (cylinder stop) so it is not sharp and is angled properly, 2) reduce the spring tension or replace the spring with a lighter one, and 3) retime the bolt to drop into the leade (the V shaped cut ahead of the cylinder notch). Basically it is cosmetic. The condition is self-correcting, as the compression eventually stops the "ding" and the bolt can only come up so far. No, it won't cut through the cylinder and blow up the gun!

Jim
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Old May 31, 2013, 08:20 PM   #7
Kappe
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Thank you all for your help. I didn't expect so many excellent answers in such a short period of time.

I have one more question; is this something that only happens with percussion pistols? Say somewhere down the road I purchase a SAA in .357 Magnum from Uberti. Even though it's a completely modern gun made of much stronger steel, could the bolt still peen the leads?
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Old May 31, 2013, 10:29 PM   #8
Fingers McGee
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The actions are the same - ergo, the potential problems are the same.
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Cynic: A blackguard whose faulty vision see things as they are, not as they should be. Ambrose Bierce
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