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Old May 7, 2013, 04:09 PM   #1
trobin
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Reloading for a Glock

Is there any special precautions I need to take before loading for a Glock?
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Old May 7, 2013, 04:13 PM   #2
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Other than jacketed bullets....
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Old May 7, 2013, 04:17 PM   #3
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Re: Reloading for a Glock

What caliber?

If you are loading for .40 S&W or 10mm then stay away from hotter loads because the chambers are not supported as well as other guns and aftermarket barrels.
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Old May 7, 2013, 04:48 PM   #4
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Yes. 40 with a compensated barrel
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Old May 7, 2013, 04:52 PM   #5
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Re: Reloading for a Glock

Then my above advice about avoiding hotter loads stands. If you want to use higher pressured rounds and/or lead bullets then an aftermarket barrel will kill two birds with one stone.
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Old May 7, 2013, 04:58 PM   #6
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whats wrong with lead bullets in a glock factory barrel?
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Old May 7, 2013, 05:00 PM   #7
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The 10mm GLOCK, I shoot, and pushing a 180gr xtp at fps 1385 has no ill effects on my brass crony says so and before I own a glock purchased a Lee Bulge buster anyhow I also use a Lee factory crimp die as well and after I crimp the round after acheiving the COL I do push it through the bulge buster just to ensue it will go into battery. No I won't tell you what powder is as it is not in the safe zone in print ''sorry''
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Old May 7, 2013, 05:03 PM   #8
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Re: Reloading for a Glock

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grizz12 View Post
whats wrong with lead bullets in a glock factory barrel?
The lead buildup in an polygonal rifled barrel is higher than when standard rifling is used. In theory, it isn't much of a problem if the barrel is thoroughly cleaned after each shooting session, but it is still not advisable.

Last edited by allaroundhunter; May 7, 2013 at 07:39 PM.
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Old May 7, 2013, 05:04 PM   #9
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I should also say it is a G-20 with all orginal factory innards
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Old May 7, 2013, 07:32 PM   #10
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The lead buildup in an octagonal rifled barrel
Actually, it is called a polygonal barrel

Older Glocks had an issue with unsupported chambers giving a few folks who loaded very hot loads some issues
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Old May 7, 2013, 07:39 PM   #11
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Re: Reloading for a Glock

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Originally Posted by BigDinFL View Post
Actually, it is called a polygonal barrel

Older Glocks had an issue with unsupported chambers giving a few folks who loaded very hot loads some issues
That's what I meant.... Studying for these engineering finals is having a serious detrimental effect on my mind
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Old May 7, 2013, 09:28 PM   #12
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What do you consider older? This is an 05' model.
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Old May 9, 2013, 10:02 AM   #13
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There really isn't any special precautions you have to take. I've shot bunches of reloads through my Glock .40s even with lead bullets. Lead can work, but you have to keep your eye on it. If it leads really bad, work up a different load. I've shot lead through Glocks that barely lead at all, and I've shot some that leaded terribly.

It's easier to stay with jacketed or plated, but it's also more expensive.
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Old May 9, 2013, 10:15 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NESHOOTER
The 10mm GLOCK, I shoot, and pushing a 180gr xtp at fps 1385 has no ill effects on my brass crony says so and before I own a glock purchased a Lee Bulge buster anyhow I also use a Lee factory crimp die as well and after I crimp the round after acheiving the COL I do push it through the bulge buster just to ensue it will go into battery. No I won't tell you what powder is as it is not in the safe zone in print ''sorry''
Quote:
I should also say it is a G-20 with all orginal factory innards
Assuming your using a stock G20 with stock barrel, a 180gr moving at 1385 fps is guaranteed to be well over max. When I loaded for the 10mm, only two factory powders I tried even got over 1200 fps from the 4.6" barrel, Power Pistol and Longshot. Mind you those were not over book max charges. PP got me around 1200 fps and Longshot around 1260 fps with 180gr, and brass looked bulged with those (I too use a Lee deprimer/resizer and bulge buster).

I would say you're either dangerously over book max or your chronograph is messed up, it can happen easier than you think. Too close, not level, bent rods, bad lighting can all drastically effect your readings. The got over 1400 fps once with the 10mm G20, but the load was way over book and I was using a 6" aftermarket KKM barrel.

Plus, 1385 fps is too fast for a 180gr anyways, 1200/1250 fps is more than enough. I stopped loading for the 10mm when I found that the .40 can wring out enough velocity to take full advantage of the JHP bullets anyways. With the 5.3" G35 and Longshot, I can scrape 1300 fps with 180gr JHP/hardcast, so what's the point of exceeding that when that's already more than fast enough, too fast really.
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Old May 10, 2013, 12:02 AM   #15
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As I reload for this cal, and have verifiey mulitiple times with crony, you results are less than mine as I have shot the 180 in gel,water,jugs, and I have modified the xtp results are always fully expand without much of weight loss.... this is again handloading and reloading used cases without excessive case damage... ymmv
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Old May 10, 2013, 12:09 AM   #16
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Quote:
I've shot lead through Glocks that barely lead at all, and I've shot some that leaded terribly.
And that's the problem in a nutshell. There is no good rule of thumb on how to be sure how to be safe in terms of keeping the gun from leading to the point that it becomes a problem. What works well in one Glock might lead dangerously in another apparently identical pistol.

At any rate, if you do shoot lead through a Glock (understanding that Glock and other experts on the topic strongly recommend against it) you should be aware that you should NEVER run a jacketed or plated bullet down the bore after shooting any lead until after the bore has been thoroughly cleaned and any/all leading has been completely removed.

It would also be very wise not to push the envelope at all in terms of trying for maximum velocity since you're already essentially ignoring one known risk factor.
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Old May 10, 2013, 12:16 AM   #17
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I have a Gen 3 Glock 20 and have worked up to max propellent charges for a few bullet weights as well as shot some Georgia Arms +P 10mm Auto loads and have had no case bulges.
Full length resizing does the trick and I continue on.
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Old May 10, 2013, 02:01 AM   #18
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Re: Reloading for a Glock

You can run lead in a glock. Just CLEAN YOUR GUN!!!! I like running a few FMJs at the bottom of each mag to help clean it out too. But you need a solvent to keep it clean. Do it after each outing.


Or just get an aftermarket barrel.



Or shoot plated bullets.



Keep you loads light and you'll be good.




Ike
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Old May 10, 2013, 09:50 PM   #19
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I like running a few FMJs at the bottom of each mag to help clean it out too.
This might be reasonably safe if you are doing it on a regular basis throughout the shooting session but is potentially dangerous if it is done with any significant amount of leading in the bore.

The jacketed round shot through a leaded bore will cause pressures to skyrocket. I've seen a report of one G19 blown up by shooting a single jacketed round after shooting one box (50 rounds) of lead bullet rounds.

In general, shooting jacketed rounds through a bore that is potentially leaded is a practice that should be avoided in any pistol, not just Glocks. Beretta specifically warns against it in their owner's manuals saying to "DO NOT ever" (their emphasis) employ this practice. Allan Jones, ballistician and reloading expert for SPEER also recommends against it, saying he's seen a number of guns damaged by the practice.
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Old May 10, 2013, 10:16 PM   #20
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When I first bought my 40 Glock I read several stories of shooting lead that resulted in kabooms. The issues ranged from unsupported barrels to the type of barrel used on the Glock.

Were they true? I don't know but for around $100 I bought an aftermarket barrel and shoot a lot of lead out of my Glock. It has been around 5 years and I have not had one issue shooting lead.

So did I have to do that? I still don;t know but there are hardly any if in fact any stories of Glocks with after market barrels failing with lead.

I was always told never to follow lead with a jacketed bullet so I never have.

Here is some information on the type of barrel used in the Glock. Maybe it will help you decide for yourself.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polygonal_rifling
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Old May 11, 2013, 01:47 AM   #21
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Quote:
You can run lead in a glock. Just CLEAN YOUR GUN!!!! I like running a few FMJs at the bottom of each mag to help clean it out too. But you need a solvent to keep it clean. Do it after each outing.
I think this is bad advice. If you have jacketed and lead for the same range trip, run the jacketed through it first. The rifling of the Glock strips lead off of your cast bullets pretty much no matter what you do. A lead build up, and then running jacketed through it is where people get into trouble. The jacketed round will iron the lead into it and reduce the size of the bore. It could raise pressures rather easily when you shoot a jacketed behind the lead. Not a good idea to try with a high pressure round like the 10mm. Clean it out? C"Mon man, clean the gun when you get home, very thoroughly and use your head when shooting a high pressure round in a pistol known to be susceptible to KB's.

Take a look in the reloading book at the operating pressures of the 10mm. A little common sense is in order when stepping outside the recommendations of factory literature.
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Old May 11, 2013, 02:23 AM   #22
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Re: Reloading for a Glock

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnKSa View Post
This might be reasonably safe if you are doing it on a regular basis throughout the shooting session but is potentially dangerous if it is done with any significant amount of leading in the bore.

The jacketed round shot through a leaded bore will cause pressures to skyrocket. I've seen a report of one G19 blown up by shooting a single jacketed round after shooting one box (50 rounds) of lead bullet rounds.

In general, shooting jacketed rounds through a bore that is potentially leaded is a practice that should be avoided in any pistol, not just Glocks. Beretta specifically warns against it in their owner's manuals saying to "DO NOT ever" (their emphasis) employ this practice. Allan Jones, ballistician and reloading expert for SPEER also recommends against it, saying he's seen a number of guns damaged by the practice.
Interesting. I had always heard to shoot a few FMJs after every dozen or so lead rounds.

My G17 (only polygonal rifling barreled gun that I own) holds 17 so I load up a few FMJS and fill the rest with my lead bullets in each mag.

I may have to rethink my practices regarding this.


I clean my barrel/gun after each outing too regardless of wether I'm shooting lead or not.



I really appreciate the post. Learned something new. Thank you.




Ike

Last edited by BigTex308; May 11, 2013 at 02:42 AM.
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Old May 11, 2013, 02:40 AM   #23
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Re: Reloading for a Glock

Quote:
Originally Posted by Edward429451 View Post
...... Clean it out? C"Mon man, clean the gun when you get home, very thoroughly....


Take a look in the reloading book at the operating pressures of the 10mm. A little common sense is in order when stepping outside the recommendations of factory literature.

The way it was explained to me years ago was the copper (from the FMJ) being a harder substance would help to "scrape" if you will, the lead out of the bore if fired after every dozen or so lead rounds. Obviously (unless you're running close to max loads, which is not wise in a 10mm being the high pressure round that it is) the barrel won't be leaded. it made sense to me and never thought twice about it.


From the previous responses I have learned that this method is flawed and it has caused me to rethink my habits when shooting lead through polygonal rifled barrels such as glock or H&K.



I am aware of the pressures that the 10mm cartridge operates at and would kindly ask that you give me the benefit of a doubt before accusing me of lack of common sense and the ability to open a manual and notice pressures of a particular cartridge.


It is apparent that my method was flawed and I appreciate that they called me out on it. I'd hate to be the one to give out bad information. that's the beauty of this forum. The right information will usually come out and we can all learn something.


I don't know everything and don't claim to. I learned something new today. But there is a way you can correct people without insulting their knowledge or lack of common sense.


We're all friends here and share the same passions. I'm just asking for a little respect as a fellow reloader and shooter.



Thank you.



Ike
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Old May 11, 2013, 06:45 AM   #24
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Quote:
JohnKSa
I've seen a report of one G19 blown up by shooting a single jacketed round after shooting one box (50 rounds) of lead bullet rounds.
I have tortured my G19 9mm, G20 10mm, and G22 40sw with overloads and the G19 9mm can make the most power with the stock barrel. With other barrels that support to the case web, the G22 40sw can make the most power, but the recoil is horrific.

I have not shot Lead in the Glocks.
I did shoot 300 gr Cast bullets in my Ruger 44 carbine rifle.
Then I shot a jacketed bullet.
When the jacketed bullet hit the Leading in the muzzle, it split and peeled back the muzzle like a banana. [Evidently this is common.]
Unlike Glocks, there are no replacement barrels for old Ruger carbines.
It now wears a Marlin 444 barrel with part of the chamber cut off and with a gas hole drilled. [Now heavier and more accurate than stock]
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Old May 11, 2013, 08:44 AM   #25
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I bought my G17 in 89 and I shot a bunch of lead through it before I had ever heard of the lead issue. What I have learned is that jacketed bullets are much more accurate. I never shoot lead through it any longer although I would not worry about the kaboom issue if I did. I clean after each 200 or so rounds.
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