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Old April 11, 2013, 05:56 PM   #26
rodfac
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Geez...do you Armor-All your garage floor too? Give it a rest, and run a wet patch through the bore and cylinder chambers to loosen the crud, then a bronze brush. If you're doing more than ten strokes with that brush, you're doing more than the USMC teams at Camp Perry. Then a cpl more wet patches, and one more that's dry, finish with a damp one (if you're going to put it away for a time) with a cheap (can you say CLP) oil and you're done. Let the anal among us detail strip their pieces every time they look at it, and be happy. We're shooters, not cleaners. Rod BTW, sooner or later that electric drill deal is going to seriously mess up your cylinder throats...and good luck finding a chore boy that's not plated steel...I've looked for 3 years without finding one...they're all plated, check out the price of copper, or your jacketed bullets if you doubt.
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Last edited by rodfac; April 11, 2013 at 06:02 PM.
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Old April 11, 2013, 08:02 PM   #27
Homerboy
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I use a power drill. 30 seconds on low per chamber and they look like mirrors. Lead Away cloth for the front of the cylinder. My guns look new and I intend to keep them that way. I spent about 20 minutes cleaning a revolver.
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Old April 14, 2013, 04:49 PM   #28
bigboredad
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Yes you are over doing it. First yhingyi would do if I was you get some job bore paste and after you have used your drill to clean the chambers and throats get a tight fitting patch or a mop and work a bunch of paste into the patch then get your drill and polish the chambers real good so they are nice and smooth. Then after each range session while the gun is warm soak it in your favorite cleaner. For this I just use wd40 wrap your gun and even if you don't have time to clean the solvent will be doing it's job getting under all the crud. By time you are really to clean it for this I use hoppes just because I like the smell use a brass brush tooth brush style you'll be able to brush away the crud and the crud in the cylinder and barrel will brush right out with the chore boy. It faster than typing or reading this
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Old April 14, 2013, 05:51 PM   #29
newfrontier45
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Quote:
I use a power drill. 30 seconds on low per chamber and they look like mirrors. Lead Away cloth for the front of the cylinder. My guns look new and I intend to keep them that way. I spent about 20 minutes cleaning a revolver.
You're overdoing it. I reckon it's fine when you only have a couple of revolvers and don't shoot them very often. I have several dozen and shoot them all the time. If I did that every time I shot one, I wouldn't shoot. It just ain't necessary. Just wipe them off and clean when necessary. This ain't the military.

PS, used guns shouldn't look new. They should look used.
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Old April 14, 2013, 07:35 PM   #30
m&p45acp10+1
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All my revolvers have seen for the past 3 years is cast lead. The exception is one that I use for hog country. That one gets a couple of jacketed rounds a year. Cleaning my guns takes less than 20 minutes total for any of them. I do not use a drill. All I use is a cleaning brush, and patches. I use an old tooth brush for the cylinder face.

Step 1. While gun is still warm at the range spary with M-Pro7 gun cleaner.
Step 2 Put away in range bag for the ride home.
Step 3 After arriving at home take the gun out.
Step 4 Take brush on cleaning rod wet with gun cleaner. Brush all cylinders, and the barrel.
Step 5 Wet old tooth brush with gun cleaner, and clean the forcing cone, top strap, and cylinder face.
Step 6 Run a patch dampened with gun cleaner through the barrel, and all of the cylinders.
Step 7 Run clean dry patch down the barrel, and then one for the cylinder bores.
Step 8 Wet clean patch with oil in the barrel, and all chambers of the cylinder. Also a wet patch with oil on all surfaces on the gun.
Step 9 Run a dry clean patch down the barrel, and one down the bores of the clyinder.
Step 10 with a dry clean rag wipe down the rest of the gun to remove the excess oil.

It took me longer to type this than it does to clean one of my revolvers. I shoot over a hundred rounds every trip the range. I clean them when I think about it. They work every time I shoot them.
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Old April 15, 2013, 10:13 AM   #31
LED
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Try lead removal cloth if you haven't. The heavy kind that feels like oilcloth, such as Kleenbore. Push with a bore brush one size down.
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Old April 15, 2013, 11:54 AM   #32
Sweet Shooter
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@LED
Try lead removal cloth if you haven't...
I am doing precisely that.
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Old April 15, 2013, 12:10 PM   #33
rclark
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Quote:
and good luck finding a chore boy that's not plated steel...
Well, you might have to ask ... I found out that the Meth people use it, so now it either isn't stocked or may have to 'ask' for it . I ran into several boxes at our local IGA (small hometown store). Will last me a lifetime... Couldn't find it in the big box stores like Walmart, Kmart, etc....
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Old April 15, 2013, 02:02 PM   #34
LED
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SS
My apologies I missed that.
I have been able to de-lead not only after the 38s but after shooting 44 Russian out of a 44 mag revolver.
A lot of hard scrubbing to be sure. Lead cloth, wet patch, dry patch. But you are looking for another solution, I hope you find it.
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Old April 15, 2013, 06:57 PM   #35
rodfac
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Rclark, thanks for the tip...I'll keep a lookout..haven't found any that wouldn't attract a magnet yet. Didn't know they had a Meth connection. Rod
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Our Flag does not fly because the wind blows against it, it is moved instead, by the dying breath of our patriots in uniform. Our Freedom is not free, it's been paid for many times over.
USAF Forward Air Controller, 5th Spl Forces,
An Loc, lll Corps, RVN, 69-70, Vietnam Vet '69-'73
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