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Old March 27, 2013, 08:09 PM   #51
Tidewater_Kid
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Be sure to post pictures.

I might need the 50-70 extractor. I hope Al still has it when my rifle arrives.

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Old March 29, 2013, 11:30 AM   #52
Doc Hoy
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Put together

Here are some photos of the rifle with all of the components present.



I don't have the screws yet so the sight was just sitting on the barrel.



Sorry the muzzle is out of focus. A photographer I am NOT.



I will be dovetailing the front sight.
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Old March 29, 2013, 11:34 AM   #53
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Minor issue

Both of my trapdoors have a good bit of trigger creep and I suspect it is not uncommon in the marque.

I solved the problem in the one I am building by layering heat shrink tubing onto the sear.



This got creep down to about a sixteenth inch where the finger bears.

This is a three position tumbler and I want the trigger to be right. If the tubing lasts, I will do the same thing on my other one.
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Old March 29, 2013, 11:41 AM   #54
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When my tumbler broke the replacement was a two position one. It was OK but just different. Basically a 1/4 cock and full cock. You can load & unload on 1/4 cock.
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Old March 29, 2013, 11:55 AM   #55
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Looking good Doc but that's a rifle butt plate.
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Old March 29, 2013, 01:38 PM   #56
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Hawg...

Yeah I know. But if you don't say nuthin, I won't.
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Old March 29, 2013, 06:39 PM   #57
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Quote:
Yeah I know. But if you don't say nuthin, I won't.
I ain't sayin nuffin.
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Old March 29, 2013, 08:45 PM   #58
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I like it already! (heck, I liked it from the first pic of just the barrel ) Shes a real looker Doc I cant wait to see the final product
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Old March 29, 2013, 09:26 PM   #59
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It's looking real nice! I'm so jealous!

TK
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Old March 31, 2013, 12:07 PM   #60
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Dovetailing the front sight

I made this sight and now I am afraid it might be too short.

Clamping this to the milling machine table was a bear. I had to be SOOO careful to get the alignment right.



I cold blued the barrel, and receiver to try to get them to match.



Only just so successful. I might try that again.

Here is the closeup of the sight.

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Old March 31, 2013, 12:10 PM   #61
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I popped a cap yesterday...

Goes off fine, but I am afraid the firing pin is too long.

Pretty big dent in the primer. Don't reckon it matters all that much.

I have all of the screws coming from Al Frasca's running mate, Ed Knisely. I am going to try to make the saddle ring rail.

Might be shooting this thing next week.
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Old March 31, 2013, 12:30 PM   #62
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Outstanding!

Thanks for sharing Doc!!!

Birch
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Old March 31, 2013, 12:36 PM   #63
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Total for parts

$533.00.
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Old March 31, 2013, 07:57 PM   #64
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Re: I love my trapdoor so much....

This is really cool. Looks like a lot of fun
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Old April 4, 2013, 10:09 AM   #65
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You got it, Mr. McN.

This is the most fun I have had with my clothes on in a long time.

Been away on travel for a coupla days and am just getting back to the forum.

I have decided on a minimalist approach to th final finish on the rifle. Maybe just brown the rifle and take the shine off of the stock.
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Old April 4, 2013, 11:19 AM   #66
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I would keep it simple too. Browning the barrel would give it more character than a shiny finish I would think. It really is awesome, you should be proud of it.
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Old April 4, 2013, 07:07 PM   #67
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Brown is good and I think the stock looks good as is.
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Old April 4, 2013, 07:37 PM   #68
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need a good lead

on some browning processes.

I see the links to Brownells, but is that the best option?
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Old April 4, 2013, 08:59 PM   #69
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Browning....

I've used two different processes, both successfully. Each has it's own 'tricks'.

1) Birchwood Casey Plum Brown. This is a hot process; you heat the metal and apply the browning solution with a large cotton swab. The key is to thoroughly clean and degrease the metal first. This makes handling the parts an issue; nitrile gloves are the solution. Two to four coats are usually necessary. The first one will appear uneven but that's quickly and easily fixed with the following coats. Also, if one of the coats is uneven, due to the metal cooling too fast, fixing it by applying another coat is easy and effective. Pros of this method are speed (you can apply several coats in one day) and control (each coat gives a darker and smoother finish and you can quickly judge whether to add another). Plus you don't need to plug the bore because the interior of the barrel doesn't get hot enough to react with the solution if any should get inside. Cons are the need to keep the metal clean and degreased, so plan how to handle the parts in advance.

2) Laurel Mountain Browning and Degreaser Solution. This is a cold process; you create a high humidity environment and apply the solution, then let it rust for several hours. The parts are then 'carded' with a stiff brush or denim cloth to remove the scale. Several coats are necessary and it will take a couple of days to complete one gun. Warning: the first coat or two will look terrible, but each subsequent coat will get better. Pros are the humid environment is easy to set up (I just turned on a hot shower and closed the bathroom door) and the solution is itself a degreaser, so keeping the parts clean and grease free is not as important. Cons are the time invested - it takes much longer than the hot process. Also, you will need to plug the muzzle and nipple/touch holes to keep from rusting the bore.

Both will give a deep, smooth brown finish, and both can be tailored to produce the amount of 'antique' that one desires.
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Old April 5, 2013, 07:00 AM   #70
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Mykeal....

Thanks for the tips.

Using Plum Brown...

Does the surface to be browned need to be completely free of previous bluing?

Does the process produce a markedly different appearance when applied to case hardened parts?
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Old April 5, 2013, 07:13 AM   #71
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Splendid thread, Doc.
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Old April 5, 2013, 07:37 AM   #72
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Quote:
Using Plum Brown...
Does the surface to be browned need to be completely free of previous bluing?
I've never applied Plum Brown over blued metal, or 'partially' blued metal. However, I have used it to cover worn rust browned surfaces and it worked just fine, so I suspect the answer is no. Both Plum Brown and Laurel Mountain finishes are opaque, not translucent, so repeated applications will cover surface coloration inconsistencies. The color just gets deeper and more uniform, a lot like painting with a heavy glaze.

Quote:
Does the process produce a markedly different appearance when applied to case hardened parts?
I'd say 'noticeably' different with light application, much less so the more coats you add. Plum Brown, like Laurel Mountain, works by rusting the surface of the metal. A chemically 'color case hardened' surface (if that's what you meant) will resist that process more than an untreated steel, so it will take more work. If you meant a truly case hardened surface I don't really know for sure what it will do, but I suspect it will be closer to untreated steel than the chemically 'hardened' surface. I've seen work that was very dark brown, almost black, and I believe it started as a bone charcoal hardened surface that was then treated with Plum Brown. In the end it's speculation as I really have no personal experience with it.
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Old April 5, 2013, 10:14 PM   #73
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Beautiful work, Doc, and I applaud your decision on the minimalist touch. You are building both a historical and interesting piece. Can't wait to see the finished product!
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Old April 6, 2013, 05:26 AM   #74
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Mykeal, Capt, and Sarge

Capt and Sarge,

Thanks for the compliments

Mykeal,

Thanks for the info. The 1873 Peacemaker clone that I have from Geroco is browned.

I have to put more thought into this decision.
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Old April 6, 2013, 01:01 PM   #75
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So I'm in the LGS and what to my wondering eyes.. It's the full length infantry rifle by Pedersoli. Now it looks too long, after seeing yours. I hope your piece shoots as good as it looks. Putting the saddle ring rail on will really take the cake!
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