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Old March 15, 2013, 01:49 PM   #26
abherbitter
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Bob Wright:
Quote:
As to the detrimental use of steel bore brushes, there are many who hold that belief, not that it was stated nor implied in this thread. I was just heading off what I believed to be forthcoming critism.
Firstly, thanks for the clarification on terms. I have a few pieces of old, 100% cotton white T-shirt that I've cut up for use as rags in my cleaning kit and I use an undersized jag (apparently, as I never knew it was called that!) to get them started through the barrel.

I'll make that criticism of steel bore brushes. I work in the steel industry and without knowing all the specific grades of steel used in the brushes I can't say anything definitively but the grades of steel typically used in the barrels are ASA4140, 4150, or 4350. Hardnesses typicaly 185-200HB. If the brushes are made out of something like 440C stainless steel, that has a hardness of 269HB and if you run a harder steel on a softer steel you ARE going to ware the softer steel.
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Old March 15, 2013, 02:34 PM   #27
Erno86
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I prefer the jelly-like Blue Wonder copper bore solvent for my firearms...though it tends to liquify during hot weather.

Besides bore snakes...you'll need pistol brushes for revolvers --- but with semi auto's --- you can use full length rifle brushes; which gives more bristle for your buck. Spend your coin on the more expensive bronze core brushes, to avoid scratching your barrel.

I only use steel brushes on chamber cleaning...using the Wilson Combat chamber brush and handle, for my 45acp 1911 Kimber.

I like the bronze bristles for better scrubbing power over nylon bristles.

You can buy those copper color dish cleaning pads that look like flat bands of copper {I forgot the brand name} --- put a cotton patch around your jag and wrap some of those copper bands around it.
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Old March 15, 2013, 03:28 PM   #28
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Hoppes???? There's your problem. Hoppes is just a air freshener... I use Montana extream and a Nylon Brush only. Ain't nothing better than the smell of Hoppes in the Morning
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Old March 15, 2013, 04:55 PM   #29
rayway
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Abher, It depends on how often you shoot it and by how you mentioned alot of gray deposits tells me your shooting your gun pretty often. If you were to keep cleaning it after not shooting it for a few weeks you will eventually clean every bit of fouling out of it. Yes you can make a difference by good cleaning.
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Old March 15, 2013, 06:42 PM   #30
abherbitter
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4runnerman:

Quote:
Ain't nothing better than the smell of Hoppes in the Morning
Amen brother! When it comes to cleaning supplies I feel like if it is not "known to the state of California" to cause cancer, it just can't be strong enough to get the job done.
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Old March 15, 2013, 07:45 PM   #31
oryx
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Earlier in the thread, I believe someone mentioned using sweet and shooters choice. If I remember correctly, the combination of the two chemicals can etch the steel.

When using two chemicals for one cleaning job it is good to make sure that the first is neutralized prior to using the second. When I use something like sweets 7.62 I usually run a patch with hydrogen peroxide and then a dry patch or two before switching.
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Old March 16, 2013, 12:20 AM   #32
BumbleBug
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I'm a big believer in J-B Bore Brite.

I start with a good Butch's Bore Shine soaking followed-up with a good dry patch clean. Then rub J-B paste well into a patch & make about 10 back & forth passes. Next clean all the J-B out with Hoppes followed with several clean patches. Ready to shoot again or if I'm going to put the gun away, I'll saturate a clean, loose patch with silicon spray & pass it through the barrel.

Works for me!
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Old March 16, 2013, 12:16 PM   #33
droptrd
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Quote:
With letting it soak do I have to worry about the solvent taking the bluing off the outside of the barrel?
No the Eds Red does not hurt bluing. Ammonia based products might though such as some of your copper solvents with high ammonia content
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Old March 24, 2013, 01:58 PM   #34
Metal god
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I like the way Pete Wiggleson cleans his bores
.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7skus7HWi_8
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Old March 24, 2013, 06:31 PM   #35
Colorado Redneck
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I got chewed by some forum poster a couple of years ago for suggesting that revolver chambers be cleaned with a stainless brush. Same dude went on to say that even bronze is just bad. of course I took the usual hundred per cent discount after considering the source.

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Old March 24, 2013, 07:14 PM   #36
Zhillsauditor
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Soak long (one day plus); jag and patch; soak long; jag and patch; light coat of CLP. If lead is involved, brush is used.

Let the chemicals do the work if possible.
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