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Old March 18, 2013, 01:28 PM   #26
jrz_dad
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Join Date: November 26, 2012
Location: SW Oklahoma
Posts: 28
Brownells Oxpho-Blue for light touchups...I did a 'reblue' on an old TT33 by glassbeading the metal then using a propane torch to heat the metal to a 'blue' then cooling in motor oil (I read about this and wanted to try it)...I rather like the matte finish the glassbeading and blueing produced...
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Old March 18, 2013, 03:30 PM   #27
jglenn
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Join Date: May 22, 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 50
codl bluing

I use Dicropan IM quite often and Oxpho when the Dicropan doesn't match the color well


IM is a bit more blue in color but seeing as how it's appied with 0000 steel wool and burnished it's pretty tough
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Old March 18, 2013, 06:26 PM   #28
roklok
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Join Date: October 20, 2008
Location: Fort Yukon, Alaska
Posts: 694
As others have said, RUST BLUE ! Rust blueing is the best blue one can get, better than hot caustic blueing. It can also be done at home with a minimum of expense and equipment. I use Laurel Mountain Forge barrel brown and degreaser. There is no reason to use inferior cold blue when rust bluing is so superior and easy to do.
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Old March 19, 2013, 04:06 PM   #29
oldgunsmith
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roklok is making all kinds of sense. Once you get the hang of it you'll likely never want anything else.
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Old March 20, 2013, 03:46 PM   #30
Skans
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Join Date: November 20, 2008
Posts: 7,785
I use Casey's bluing paste. I have gotten some really great results with it. This thread contains pictures of an STI LS40 where I touched up holster wear on the frame and slide - http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=508067

Note, this is a flat finish. The paste works good on polished finishes to, but it won't hide imperfections - just makes it black and shiny. Although I haven't experienced any problems, some folks will tell you that even if you get good results, any cold blue will rub off faster than hot bluing.

Last edited by Skans; March 20, 2013 at 03:53 PM.
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Old March 21, 2013, 10:43 PM   #31
Clark
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Join Date: December 4, 1999
Location: WA, the ever blue state
Posts: 2,908
I used to be on a kick that Dicropan was darker, but Oxpho blue lasted
longer, so I would put Dicropan on first and get it down in the micro
valleys, and then run Oxpho on the micro ridges.

That trick makes dark and long lasting cold blue, but it only works on
steels that take both cold blues well.

If you can find this stuff, get some, and you will broaden what you can
do besides Oxpho and Dicropan.

http://www.g96.com/miva/graphics/000...reme-small.gif


You will need:
1) Towels
2) Paper towels
3) Kleenex
4) Hot running water
5) 3 dedicated tooth brushes
6) Motor oil
7) Oxpho blue: liquid works better, cream is easier to use
8) Some other darker cold blue
9) Liquid detergent, like SIMPLE GREEN

G96 gun blue cream.
Get the part hot and soapy, and scrub it with a tooth brush.
Rinse and dry without getting finger prints on it or letting it cool down.
Scrub on the dark cold blue with a tooth brush for a minute.
Get the part hot and soapy, and scrub it with a tooth brush.
Rinse and dry without getting finger prints on it or letting it cool down.
Scrub on the Oxpho cold blue with a tooth brush for a minute.
Apply oil lightly without rubbing off the Oxpho blue.
Leave overnight.
Get the part hot and soapy, and scrub it with a tooth brush.
Rinse and dry.
Rub oil on it.
Wipe off excess oil.

Repeat until dark and durable enough.

For whole barrels, spin them in the lathe to rub in the Oxpho.

With barrels, put a rubber stopper in the muzzle and breech to keep
liquids out.

Hair dryer or heat gun can warm parts.
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