|March 12, 2013, 03:39 PM||#1|
Join Date: December 9, 2010
G26 weak ejection
I went our to shoot my gen 4 g26 today and I was experiencing weak ejection. I also had a few brass to face issues as well. This was only the second time I have shot the gun as I usually am shooting one of my other guns. It only has 80 rds through it now.
It has the 336 ejector in it. Should I change that? I can deal with an empty casing hitting me in the forehead every now and then but will this problem lead to others if I keep it how it is?
Also the first time I shot it I was very impressed with the tight groups and accuracy I was able to get out of this gun. This time I could not hold a decent group for some reason. Right now I am chalking that up to the user or possibly it just didn't like the ammo I was feeding it this time. I will have to put some more rounds through it before I judge if its me or the gun.
Anyone else out there kept the 336 ejector in despite the weak ejection? If so did it eventually work itself out or did the problem get worse? Will glock fix this issue if I feel it needs to be corrected? I am not the original owner. I bought the gun unfired from my boss.
|March 14, 2013, 08:31 AM||#2|
Join Date: April 1, 2009
Location: SE Colorado
The ejection will not get better with time, and the gun is prone to fail to eject. I would replace the 336 ejector with the 30274 version, that fixes the ejection problem in most 9mm Glocks. In some it won't fix the problem but it usually at least improves the ejection pattern.
All you'd have to do is detail strip the frame and replace the Gen4 trigger housing that has the 336 ejector with a new Gen4 9mm trigger housing that has the 30274 ejector. If you don't feel comfortable doing it you can find a gunsmith or Glock Armorer to do it for you. You could send the gun back to Glock, they won't offer a prepaid shipping label but they may give you one if you ask for one. If you pay to ship it yourself you're probably looking at around $100 because it has to be sent next day/overnight from a UPS or Fedex hub location.
Here are some retailers who sell the Gen4 9mm trigger housing with 30274 ejector and the 3/32 inch punch Glock Tool that you'd need to detail strip the frame:
Trigger housing: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/225...m-generation-4
Glock Tool: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/181...sassembly-tool
Trigger housing: http://glockparts.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=123022&CAT=748
Glock Tool: http://glockparts.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=7171&CAT=700
Trigger housing: http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.a...123268&CAT=200
Glock Tool: http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.a...OD=626&CAT=111
And here are some detail strip resources. Remember when reassembling the frame, you must install the locking block pin before you install the slide stop.
HD Full Detail Strip by humans4targets2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oV0wDDFV0NY
Correct slide stop spring position: http://glocktalk.com/forums/showpost...2&postcount=10
On the following page are some Glock Armorer's Manuals, just scroll down to the "G" section. I learned from the Update Manual and 2009 Manual. The 2009 Manual has a few pages missing, but that info can be found in the Update Manual as well.