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Old March 6, 2013, 07:56 AM   #26
Noreaster
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My S&W1911 came with one and it's worked fine for me. I do need the tool to take it down and it does require an extra .5 second to take out the FLGR. My series 80 didn't have one and it also worked fine. If your gun didn't come with one I probably wouldn't invest in it.
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Old March 6, 2013, 09:31 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by water man
For the doubters, why not call Springfield and ask why they put them in and report back to us.
Springfield told me that the reason they use them on the lower priced models is because people will pay $20 extra for a part that costs them $4. The reason they DON'T use them on the top-end Operator ($1500) and Professional ($2500) models is because they expect that people who buy guns at that level are more interested in performance and reliability than looking cool.

Why don't you tell us why you think they put them in?
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Old March 6, 2013, 11:32 AM   #28
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Tuner wrote:

"...the FLGR ranks among the silliest and most useless. It doesn't do anything any better or even as well as the standard spring guide..."

It does one thing better. It allows the gun to fire when it is dropped on the muzzle, thereby giving us all those firing pin blocks we love so much. In the original design, the slide will move back against the spring, absorbing almost all the shock and reducing (if not quite eliminating) the possibility of the gun firing. With a FLGR, there is nothing to absorb the shock, the firing pin creeps forward and the gun fires. And CA passes another law we don't need.

In developing the Radom, the Poles first used a solid FLGR. Then, in testing, they found that the gun would fire if dropped on the muzzle. That is why the production Radom has a sectioned guide rod with an internal spring.

Jim
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Old March 6, 2013, 12:14 PM   #29
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I've heard to different sides to the "tactical" advantages/disadvantages of the two types of guide rods.
The first says that the short, G.I. rod allows racking the gun by pushing the slide against the edge of a solid object, to load, or perhaps clear a malfunction.
The other side of the record says the FLGR will prevent you from inadvertently jacking-out a round, or causing a malfunction by bumping the end of the slide against the edge of a solid object.
The latter seems unlikely to me, but with all the "ledge" sighs available (ten years ago, all the sights plugged their smoothness and lack of sharp edges and angles, now the sights have sharp edges and angles, so you can hook the sight on the edge of the object that you used to push the slide against when you had smooth, edgeless sights), you can use the sight to rack the slide.
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Old March 6, 2013, 12:55 PM   #30
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Quote:
The other side of the record says the FLGR will prevent you from inadvertently jacking-out a round, or causing a malfunction by bumping the end of the slide against the edge of a solid object.
Not a problem. I keep my carry/defense 1911s cocked and locked.
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Old March 6, 2013, 03:13 PM   #31
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45 auto,

You got your answer. Why be redundant?
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Old March 6, 2013, 03:48 PM   #32
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Both my 1911's came with FLGRs. I replaced them with the GI plugs with in a week a buying them. I hate those PITB.
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Old March 6, 2013, 03:51 PM   #33
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"The other side of the record says the FLGR will prevent you from inadvertently jacking-out a round, or causing a malfunction by bumping the end of the slide against the edge of a solid object"
This didn't make any sense to me until I played it backwards.
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Old March 6, 2013, 07:03 PM   #34
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re:

Quote:
The other side of the record says the FLGR will prevent you from inadvertently jacking-out a round, or causing a malfunction by bumping the end of the slide against the edge of a solid object
That sounds like something that was made up on the fly by someone who knows not what he knows not...or was repeating what he heard from someone who knows not what he knows not.

In the first place, a bump against a solid object ain't gonna jack a round out, and causing a malfunction is so unlikely that it can be ignored.

In the second place...an accidental bump against a solid object would have to be pretty carefully planned and executed in order to be imposed on the spring plug instead of the muzzle...which will only result in a quarter-inch of slide travel rearward, maximum.
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Old March 8, 2013, 08:41 AM   #35
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On my two 1911's I don't have to have any tools to strip them but I find the tip of an old toothbrush handle makes it a bit easier to depress the plug while turning the bushing instead of making the tip of my finger sore. To me the FLGR is just plain simpler and I don't understand why all 1911's don't come with them. My RIA didn't see a factory round for a good bit because I couldn't find any and it functioned just fine with handloads...230gr LRN's and 185 Plated HP's and 185 JHP's. The issues noted by the experts above tell me that each pistol is unique and subject to quirks of its own. I've found this true with many things; vehicles, lawnmowers, chainsaws, and guns come to mind.
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Old March 8, 2013, 08:56 AM   #36
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Sore Fingers

Quote:
On my two 1911's I don't have to have any tools to strip them but I find the tip of an old toothbrush handle makes it a bit easier to depress the plug while turning the bushing instead of making the tip of my finger sore.
Try gripping the pistol in your fist like a hammer with the back of the frame on your leg and using your thumbnail to depress it.

Adjust hand placement as necessary.

Makes launching the plug a lot less likely.
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Old March 8, 2013, 09:35 AM   #37
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I have to admit that a Full Length Guide Rod is an ingenious solution to a non-existent problem. Never heard of a problem with the standard short Guide Rod, so why fix it? I suspect that the FLGR was intended to prevent the recoil spring from kinking and slowing the cycling of the gun. The point that the short/standard rod/recoil spring never had that problem in the first place, was obviously over-looked.
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Old March 8, 2013, 03:03 PM   #38
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I once ran into a fellow at a gun show who was selling FLGRs of a design he had invented.

I said much the same thing I have said many times - the sole purpose of an FLGR is to make money for the maker and seller. Boy did I hear it! Not only did a FLGR improve feeding and accuracy, reduce recoil, eliminate evil spells, etc., etc., but insured against all kinds of other problems. The guy was practically raving, yelling at me and another fellow who had also questioned the need for a FLGR. Finally, I just laughed and walked away, but he actually followed me for several yards, still ranting about his marvelous invention.

I still think they are worthless and, like I said, have caused all kinds of collateral damage in the way of firing pin blocks, and so on.

Jim
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Old March 8, 2013, 04:25 PM   #39
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I replaced all my FLGR's with regular ones. I like the GI rods better and would rather have them all the same for consistency.
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Old March 8, 2013, 04:46 PM   #40
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better moustrap

Ok Guys, have I got a deal for you. I've just invented a better mousetrap in the form of a spiraled, striped painted, (much like the old barbershop device that hangs on the corner of the shop), 12 piece, ball bearing FLGR that actually adds stability to the gun as the round is fired. The draft that is created from the slide movement creates a back draft and the specially formulated textured paint that is applied to the rod imparts a gyroscopic effect that is guaranteed to produce accurate results and for the low low price of just 99.99............
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Old March 9, 2013, 07:16 AM   #41
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Flgr

Quote:
Springfield told me.....The reason they DON'T use them on the top-end Operator ($1500) and Professional ($2500) models is because they expect that people who buy guns at that level are more interested in performance and reliability than looking cool.
I suspect that there is a little bit of BS in that comment from Springfield. How does a part that you can't see make you look cool?
About one or the other.....I have used both and don't find any difference. The guns work and are accurate and reliable.
At this point, both of my 1911s - Bullseye guns - have the FLGRs just because that is what was in them from the start. I suppose that I could put the short plug in but don't see any advantage to the change. Probably I could say the same thing if both guns had the short rod in all this time.

Pete
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Old March 9, 2013, 07:52 AM   #42
polyphemus
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"How does a part that you can't see make you look cool?"
This is not about "cool"it's about the "can't see"statement and every time
you retract your slide which I'm sure you occasionally do that useless part
visibly sticks out like a sore thumb.
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Old March 11, 2013, 01:34 PM   #43
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Oops

Quote:
"How does a part that you can't see make you look cool?"
This is not about "cool"it's about the "can't see"statement and every time
you retract your slide which I'm sure you occasionally do that useless part
visibly sticks out like a sore thumb.
Well...I stand corrected. I wasn't thinking about it that way.
Shows how often I look at the end of my gun when the slide is retracted.
It does stick out.
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Old March 11, 2013, 02:53 PM   #44
polyphemus
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"Shows how often I look at the end of my gun when the slide is retracted."
Please don't feel bad,better to look "at" the end of the pistol with a retracted
slide than "into"the end of the pistol with the slide in battery.Safety first
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Old March 11, 2013, 07:01 PM   #45
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It does add a bit of weight to the gun, right where you want it to help control muzzle flip.

I have also found this to be true, and it has seemed to make my Combat Commander a little quicker for a followup shot. However, I freely admit that the difference is marginal.
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Old March 11, 2013, 08:30 PM   #46
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My TRP works great, ain't broke won't fix her.
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