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Old February 3, 2013, 01:49 PM   #26
double bogey
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Are you going to build up the concrete over the pipe? Or could you relocate the pipe. Trying to picture this. If you have smooth concrete, you will be suprised how much you can move on several pieces of 3/8" dowel, or even threaded rod, and at 1" clearance I would think you could get it out.
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Old February 3, 2013, 05:50 PM   #27
Nasty
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Ice rods...freeze water in sections of PVC and push them out the end. Make enough to do the job ahead of time. Lay them out, roll across them and leave them in place. They will melt, safe will be on the floor, nothing to have to remove and the little bit of water left will evaporate and dry up.

Seems it would work fine...
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Old February 3, 2013, 06:10 PM   #28
Doyle
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Quote:
Ice rods...freeze water in sections of PVC and push them out the end. Make enough to do the job ahead of time. Lay them out, roll across them and leave them in place.
Nice theory but it wouldn't even come close to holding the weight of a safe without crumbling.

Last edited by Doyle; February 3, 2013 at 07:19 PM.
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Old February 3, 2013, 06:12 PM   #29
hunter52
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I too have used cardboard to move some very large heavy objects, several others and myself moved a safe door that weighed in excess of 1000 lbs. by placing a path of cardboard then sprinkling cornmeal on top of the cardboard, placing a cardboard piece under the door and pushing it along the path.
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Old February 3, 2013, 06:31 PM   #30
PhantomPhyxer
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get some 1/2 inch black pipe, like used in the natural gas line for the home. lay they down across the open area and just roll them in. leave inplace as it would allow movement when (not if) it has to come back out.

Good luck!
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Old February 3, 2013, 08:32 PM   #31
edfrompa
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I can guarantee you the 1/2 inch pipe will leak, and you will have a major problem. It is called Murphy's Law.
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Old February 4, 2013, 10:16 AM   #32
RonR6
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Wedge a wood shim under safe and lift with a flat
bar raise one corner at a time, just enough to get
a small craftsman socket underneath. Repeat other
corners and roll away. If moving long distances replace
A socket as needed. I have done this many times
If floor is finished you need 1/8 inch steel plate strips
Good luck
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Old February 4, 2013, 11:48 AM   #33
musher
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Quote:
get a small craftsman socket underneath. Repeat other
corners and roll away
Metric or SAE?
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Old February 4, 2013, 01:20 PM   #34
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Old February 9, 2013, 09:44 AM   #35
Nasty
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If you use enough ice rods, it would work.

They'd be destroyed in the process of course, but that is part of the solution.

Imagine instead that you froze 1/2" of ice in a solid sheet, put the sheet in place and slid the safe across it into position.

It'd work *once*.
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Old February 9, 2013, 09:50 AM   #36
TheGoldenState
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Slides easily enough on Carpet.


I just paid $400 to move my 1200lber about 20ft to the garage and will have to do another $400 to get it back in, in a few weeks.
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Old February 14, 2013, 04:49 PM   #37
number 9
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The 1/2" or 3/4" black steel gas pipe as mentioned above will work. You will need a min of three, one @ back one about 3/4 toward the front and a pivotal one to reposition as it rolls back.

I have used this method to move full chest type freezers as well as getting washers and dryers out of tight spots without damaging the floor.

Hope this helps
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Old February 18, 2013, 03:16 PM   #38
Harold1950
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Move safe

I had a Liberty safe delivered last year. The guys slid it from the truck into my master bathroom, over concrete, wood floors and carpet. They put the safe within 1" of the wall couldn't get any closer because of the baseboard. What they used was strips of what looked like kitchen cutting boards (white plastic like stuff about 1/2" thick and in various sizes that you can buy at Wally World) that was covered by what looked like black rubber to keep the safe from moving off the slick white plastic while it was sliding over the different surfaces. He said they made their own by cutting the plastic cutting boards and stacking pieces together until they had about 3 or 4 thicknesses and about 2" wide, these were held together with counter sunk screws and nuts. Both ends were tapered like skids. He didn't say what they used for the black rubber(?). The two movers just put the moving strips end to end and pushed/slid away. When they were off the one set, they just stopped and put the strips/skids at the end. This continued until the safe was where I wanted it. Worked pretty slick (pun intended) and they just rocked the safe to pull the moving strips out from under the safe. I guess if you are moving a safe for yourself, you could leave the strips in place. I hope this helps and gives you some ideas
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Old February 18, 2013, 04:24 PM   #39
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Harold -

Did you have any step-up thresholds to get over? How do they negotiate those?
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Old February 19, 2013, 09:50 AM   #40
kenken
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I moved my safe into my house myself. I could not find my sliders and my wife give me 4 paper plates that I positioned under each corner and away I went. Simple. It was on carpet too.

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Old February 19, 2013, 11:33 AM   #41
Harold1950
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Thresholds

Only thresholds I had was where it changed from carpet to hardwood. They just made sure to stop the movement before the threshold and put the next slider/skid over the threshold where the skid/runner end wasn't on the threshold, it was more toward the center(I hope this is clear). After reading my first post, I noticed I have it all upside down. Literally. The plastic on the skids went up allowing the safe to slide on the runner/skid. The rubber(if that is what it was) went down on the carpet/hardwood and provided enough friction (I guess) to keep the runner from moving. The safe slid on the white plastic not the rubber. Two guys moved the safe, one pushed and all the second guy seemed to be doing was make sure it didn't get pushed over. They slid the safe sideways, with the door pointing in the direction the safe was going.
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