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Old January 26, 2012, 09:30 PM   #26
Beagle333
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Quote:
Excellent idea Doc. You gonna produce a picture series of rehabbing that brasser???
That would be great!
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Old January 26, 2012, 11:28 PM   #27
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If it's like the others he's done. It will be excellent
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Cynic: A blackguard whose faulty vision see things as they are, not as they should be. Ambrose Bierce
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Old January 27, 2012, 08:03 AM   #28
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Fingers....

....You are too kind.

I have a pair of Remingtons which will come before this G&G. With my new position I am running into a time bind.

But these Remingtons are an interesting pair. Both .44 and both brass. One is Richland Arms and the other is a Garret Arms from (of all places) Norfolk, VA which is right down the street. I bought the things for 75.00 each at a gun show in, you guessed it.... Norfolk, VA. They are similar enough that a person might think they came from the same factory.

These pistols work fine but are cosmetically terrible. Machine marks. Poor finish on the brass. Bluing looks like A1 Steak Sause smeared on with a paint brush. Just terrible.

I think they will make up into a nice pair.
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Old January 27, 2012, 01:27 PM   #29
Fingers McGee
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Can't wait to see the photo documentation of that project Doc.
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Fingers (Show Me MO smoke) McGee - AKA Man of Many Colts - Alter ego of Diabolical Ken; SASS Regulator 28564-L-TG; Rangemaster and stage writer extraordinaire; Frontiersman, Pistoleer, NRA Endowment Life, NMLRA, SAF, CCRKBA, STORM 327, SV115; Charter member, Central Ozarks Western Shooters
Cynic: A blackguard whose faulty vision see things as they are, not as they should be. Ambrose Bierce
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Old January 27, 2012, 11:51 PM   #30
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Second that. Would be awesome indeed.
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Old January 29, 2012, 12:50 PM   #31
halfslow
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I hate it when people don't follow up and post the results.
So here are (is?) my results.

I was able to set up a small vise in the mini-mill, indexed to the table, and with it face off the front of the frame, the barrel forcing cone, the front of the arbor and the bottom lug where the barrel meets the frame.
They were all slightly out of square.
The gap is now 6 thou on one side of the cylinder and 5 thou on the other.

I will let the parts wear in a bit before touching it any more.
It came with such a slick action, that I feel it was worth the effort.

Thanks again to Doc Hoy for the suggestions.
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Old January 8, 2013, 02:53 PM   #32
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Great thread, but what would the ideal gap be on a steel frame gun????
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Old January 8, 2013, 06:11 PM   #33
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.006-.008 is considered optimum but I've seen them run .003- .012
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Old January 8, 2013, 07:07 PM   #34
Doc Hoy
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Its a good point you make Master Haggen

This is something I never tried:

Have you ever chronied a revolver that had a wide gap, then tighten it up and chrony it again?
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Old January 8, 2013, 07:13 PM   #35
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Thanks, Haggen...
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Old January 8, 2013, 08:00 PM   #36
Hawg
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No Doc but you're sure to lose some velocity from a wider gap.
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Old January 28, 2013, 03:33 PM   #37
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Now I have read to measure with the hammer forward and with it at half-cock. Which is correct????

My 1862 Pietta .36 Police is about .010" with the cylinder pulled rearward and the hammer at half-cock.

It is super close with the hammer forward...
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Old January 28, 2013, 06:19 PM   #38
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All the way to the rear.
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Old January 28, 2013, 07:06 PM   #39
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Shoots great and very little flash (in daylight) between cylinder and cone...
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Old January 29, 2013, 10:02 AM   #40
10851Man
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@ Hawg,

My cone/cylinder gap looks to be around .010" with the cylinder pulled all the way back on my new '62 Police
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Old January 29, 2013, 02:31 PM   #41
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The first thing I'd try was to replace the key. I had one of those re-introduced Colts once, that I think were made by Uberti. As I pushed in the key further it would actually jam the cylinder face to the breech end of the barrel so hard that it would not turn. When I backed it out a bit the problem was fixed.

So you might just try a new key. Anyway it's a try. All of the other solutions here look okay too, but I'd try a new key before I went to all of the work.

Say, someone really disrespected that revolver didn't they!
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Old January 29, 2013, 05:59 PM   #42
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Pietta arbors/arbor holes are generally the correct length/depth so a new wedge won't help. Personally I wouldn't worry about it. .010 isn't that bad.
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Old January 29, 2013, 06:07 PM   #43
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@ Hawg,

I agree on the .010" setting and I had no plans to change it. I just asked about the setting and the wedge screw...
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