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Old December 29, 2012, 01:58 AM   #1
jolly1
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Sharps 1863 Sporting

Hi, all,

I am planning to buy rifle Sharps 1863 Sporting, and since I will have to do on-line, and there is no local shop to ask, I thought to ask here.
The purpose of this rifle is target shooting up to 300 meters.

The questios:
1. Which caliber 45 or 54?
2. Which creedmore sight, or is it standard?
3. Which malcolm scope? (I believe there are at list two dimensions for it)
4. What mounts are required for malcolm scope.
5. Any other advice?

Many thanks in advance,
Jolly1
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Old December 29, 2012, 04:56 AM   #2
Doc Hoy
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No opinions here, but...

...I am fairly certain a Sharps will be my next rifle purchase but it will be a 45/70. I envy you for this initiative.

There are some very smart folks here and so your questions will be answered.
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Old December 29, 2012, 11:21 AM   #3
Roshi
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Can't help but.....

IMHO either the .45 or .54 will be adequate for 300 m. I'm saving up for a '63 Cavalry Carbine. I'd be very interested on what you find in regards to making and firing paper cartridges.
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Old December 29, 2012, 11:55 AM   #4
TomADC
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Bought this one a couple of months ago, haven't shot is yet. Its a .54 cal. I plan on using Charlies Tubes for the paper cartridges.


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Old December 29, 2012, 12:04 PM   #5
Doc Hoy
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Tom....

I admired that rifle when you posted it before and it is still as purdy as it was then.
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Old December 29, 2012, 12:29 PM   #6
TomADC
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Thanks Doc, we just got back from a long ocean cruise to Tahiti and islands in the area, good to be back on the USA!

I also have a bunch of plastic tubes from this place I plan on trying out. The plastic tube does not stay in the rifle and are reusable.

http://www.shelltube.us/ShellTube.html
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Old December 29, 2012, 03:38 PM   #7
Erno86
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Dixie Gun Works sells some top notch Creedmore sights and Malcolm scope clamps.

I just bought a 1861 Pedersoli 54 cal, Sharps Carbine. Midway has a sale on lead furnaces and lead ingot's. You can store your paper patch bullets in a 50 round plastic shell box ---7.62x54 --- from Dillon Free Press. I buy hair curler paper, at a hair salon, for my paper patch bullets. Buy a steel or wooden dowel that fits the outside diameter base of the bullet. Use flour {like a rolling pin} for the wooden dowel, so the curler paper won't stick to the dowel. Roll the curler paper with the dowel and glue the edges together.

Use liguid paper glue {buy at Michaels or Staples} preferably {not the stick-um kind} and attach the rolled paper tube to the bottom outside base of the bullet --- let dry --- pour in the measured charge, fold the paper over the charge; so only one layer {not two} of paper covers the tail-end of the charge; that will properly ignite from the cap.

Grease the action with high pressure grease, or teflon grease. Lube the bullet with Bore lube, or Butter Crisco, mixed in with 30% pure beeswax.

If the action gets dirty...use a spray bottle filled with a mixture of 30% Simple Green/30% rubbing alcohol/30% hydrogen peroxide solution --- wipe off and re-lube.

Last edited by Erno86; December 29, 2012 at 03:50 PM.
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Old December 29, 2012, 08:40 PM   #8
DD4lifeusmc
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sporting sharps

Yours appears to be the 32 inch barrel which should give you good accuracy.
I bought the .54 cal Infantry model with 30 inch. My accuracy is good for me, but with my eyes can't see that far anymore without a scope!
While you can bulk load, paper cartridge load and even brass load this.
I would recommend buying some brass.
It does appear to help reduce breech fouling.
They're not cheap, but they are reusable. But you also have to match the bullet to the case.
As to the scope and mounts.
Dixie has both models advertised. Again not cheap.
Been considering them.
Mine came with the barrel mounted ladder sight, Creedmore type, marked to 800 yd.
The tang mounted will go up to 1200 I believe.
When target shooting I keep two cleaning rods handy with rubbing alcohol.
Both are 12 guage. long one for cloth swabs to do whole barrel.
A short one just for the breech.
For the breech I also have a short rod with the cotton tampon swab on it .
for extended shooting a I use a very slight dab of antiseize on the gas sleeve.
Make sure it is thoroughly smeared on the outside of the sleeve but inside the bore the sleeve slides in. Not inside where the powder / cartridge goes.
Then if you need it, a slight ridge of vaseline on the back end of sleeve when exposed, so when you push it into place it leaves a little ring.
On the sides of the sliding breech block either 3 in 1 oil if you want to be traditional.
Or lubriplate 105 if not.
I get about 10 shots before I need to clean and relube.
OHHH and watch your fingers when closing the breech.
The handle can make a nasty pinch when it snaps shut.
Also the Dixie Gub Works brand is a still a Pedersoli. But you save a few bucks when they put them on sale. Mine was $1195
Kinda like the old M1 thumb.
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Old December 29, 2012, 09:49 PM   #9
jolly1
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Thanks folks!

One more question:
What about twist of rate?
Is it different with different makers, or same regardless of maker?
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Old December 30, 2012, 07:38 PM   #10
DD4lifeusmc
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twist

pretty much the same model to model
Infantry 1:48 will be 1:48 brand to brand.
But there are times they won't be.
One brand wants you use a RB with theirs and another either RB or pointed.
So you have to be sure to verify it with the rifle that strikes your fancy.
To each his own.
Me When I was a noob and first got started back in the 70's we didn't have the selection we do now.
I didn't want to mess with Flintlocks so did percussion I went with kit to save money.
In kit I only had Plains man with 1:48. Box said good with both RB and pointed.
Then I read the Lyman reloaders manual and shooters black powder bible.
From there it was trial and error.
My CVA .50 cal plains man is over 30 years old and still my favorite.
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Old December 31, 2012, 11:17 PM   #11
Razor740
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" 5. Any other advice? "

Stay away from an IAB made rifle.
Personal experience = soft internals..poor fitting/alignment of internals...
sight alignment/barrel indexing is poor


A PEDERSOLI rifle is more expensive but well worth it.

A C.SHARPS or a SHILO rifle are top of the line..

Bore diameters differ
For example....a .54 IAB is NOT the same as a .54 PEDERSOLI...
You cannot use a PEDERSOLI bullet (mold) in an IAB without paper patching.
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Old January 1, 2013, 11:13 AM   #12
jolly1
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Razor,

Thanks for above, sounds very usefull!
Just need some clarification?

What IAB stands for?

As I live in Europe, I was actually (preliminary) planning for Pedersoli rifle.

And for remaning posibilities:
Pedersoli / C. Sharps and Shilo - could you name the approximate prices to get a rough idea about size of investment?

Then I'll work to find dealers.

Thanks!
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Old January 1, 2013, 11:56 AM   #13
Razor740
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IAB is Industria Armi Bresciane....of Gardone Italy.

Pedersoli is also Italian made but of much, much higher quality.
The price starts around $1500

C. SHARPS and SHILO are both American made in Montana.
Both are the top of the line rifle.
Their prices start around $2000 to 2500, and go way up from there.

Hope this helps
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Old October 13, 2013, 05:24 PM   #14
brinker
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Sharps 1874 Shilo BIG TIMBER

I just placed my order for the sporter-3 pistol grip, cheek rest, ramp sights, level inserts,45/70 octogon barrel 34 inch,dual trigger AAA finish w' minium french axcent . should weight about 13.8 lbs. 2+years wait, maybe! but I plan to pay it out over that time frame. I looked for an original and found some, but the prices, gee's! really could not go that route, even the Shilo models out of Big timber, for various resale, were more than my order was going to cost, and most of them didn't have the features I was looking for. I know no wait, but I just couldn't do the ready cash right now, I had a trap door spring field nice clean gun, barrel was worn out so I sold it, it hangs over a fireplace now, I will just keep shooting my 1903, intil christmas comes. A fellow Aviator Sunny
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Old October 14, 2013, 09:52 AM   #15
maillemaker
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Quote:
If the action gets dirty...use a spray bottle filled with a mixture of 30% Simple Green/30% rubbing alcohol/30% hydrogen peroxide solution --- wipe off and re-lube.
I used to make "Possum ****" out of 1/3 Rubbing Alcohol, 1/3 Murphy's Oil Soap, and 1/3 Hydrogen Peroxide.

I have recently been told that this formula is harmful to wood. So now I use Balistol, which is not harmful to wood. I find it works better, too.

Steve
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Old October 14, 2013, 06:23 PM   #16
Hawg Haggen
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Peroxide is an oxidizer and promotes rust.
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