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Old December 20, 2012, 09:01 AM   #26
drail
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Actually it depends on the oil used more than the type of gun. Some oils will evaporate away and leave almost nothing on the metal and some oils (like motor oil) offer very little protection against rust (ever walk through a junkyard and see all of the rusty engine blocks?). WD 40 and most aerosal spray lubes WILL evaporate away and leave a gummy residue over time simply because they have to be thinned down to get them to go through the nozzle. The best oils I have found for rust protection are Breakfree CLP, Breakfree Collector and Eezox. They will protect. Take a small brush and place 3 or 4 drops on the brush and "paint" your gun with it. As soon as the gun starts to look dry again repeat. This method has been protecting my guns for many years of carrying in the summer and sweating all over them.
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Old December 20, 2012, 10:02 AM   #27
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I clean all my un-shot guns approx monthly and feel comfortable about it. Takes maybe 15 minutes as I'm watching TV. Just a quick disassembly, wipe friction surfaces clean with patches and lightly re-oil. Oiled then dry patch through the barrel too.

I particularly like Butch's triple twill patches for the bore. They never leave any shedding and just feel solid.
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Old December 20, 2012, 10:23 AM   #28
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Right after I clean it.

I clean it after every 200 rounds or so.

No rust yet.
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Old December 20, 2012, 10:44 AM   #29
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Quote:
Depends on the gun.

My EDC Glocks didn't care, but now that I carry a 1911 I lube it every week.
Exact same situation here.

Only annoying thing with that is over time, that bullet set back on my .45's

I gotta clear the ammo out here and though. I chamber the same round maybe once or twice over. Call me OCD. I don't care -__-

And I clean all my guns deeply after every range session. Even Glocks. From 7rds to 500rds. They get the same cleaning.
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Old December 20, 2012, 02:24 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Constantine
Only annoying thing with that is over time, that bullet set back on my .45's
I'm probably overly paranoid but bullet setback scares me too after being educated about it here. Now I just throw away the chambered round every time I clean. I figure it's just a small part of the regular cleaning routine.
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Old December 21, 2012, 12:45 AM   #31
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At the very least, you could pull the bullet with a KE puller and save the brass ...... the primed case can be fired (at close range) to kill spiders .....
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Old December 21, 2012, 01:37 AM   #32
Steel Talon
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I wipe my pistol down at the end of the day with a impregnated rag. I oil my pistol after every range cleaning.

I use Eesox synthetic
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Old December 21, 2012, 01:54 AM   #33
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I generally choose my carry guns so that corrosion concerns are minimized. Stainless and polymer are your friends in this regard, although there are other finishes that are also equally corrosion resistant to stainless, or even superior.

I use BreakFree CLP for general purpose wipedown and light lube when corrosion protection is desired and smell isn't an issue. For applications where I don't want to smell like gun oil, something like Dillon Snake Oil or Lubriplate FMO-350AW works well with the Lubriplate probably having an advantage in terms of corrosion protection and the Snake Oil a possible advantage in terms of lubrication.

I used Dillon Snake Oil to lubricate a grandfather clock that stopped and would not restart some 9 years ago. After judiciously dripping the oil into the works, I was able to get it restarted and it has kept running continuously since that point without further attention.

For applications where no lubrication is required, MP5 metalophilic oil does a great job of corrosion protection. It has a smell, but the smell is neither strong, nor is it reminiscent of the typical gun oil smell.

For applications where lubrication is the primary concern, I use a light grease made from mixing very fine molybdenum disulfide powder with a good quality gun oil like Dillon Snake Oil or BreakFree CLP. A very tiny dab, or a light smear is adequate, and when the oil migrates out of the mix or dries/evaporates, the moly remains in place and is an excellent steel-to-steel dry lubricant. That means there's no need to reapply lubricant on a regular basis.
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Old December 21, 2012, 01:59 AM   #34
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I use the breakfree CLP as well. I buy that stuff by gallon. So I never put any kind of lube other then that. I mostly buy SS guns though as well. Over oiling will get you in as much trouble as under oiling. Most people seem to use way to much. I have a cousin that you can pick up any of his guns and shake oil out of them.
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Old December 21, 2012, 07:11 AM   #35
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I clean mine after each shooting session. At times I don't go for a month but my pistol doesn't care.
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Old December 21, 2012, 09:46 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnKSa
I used Dillon Snake Oil to lubricate a grandfather clock that stopped and would not restart some 9 years ago.
Heh I also find everyday uses for gun oil. Most recently a squeaky door hinge and a squeaky shower fan. For some reason gun oil works better than anything. Just Hoppe's elite in this case. Try it next time something mechanical annoys you. Now back to your regularly scheduled discussion.
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Old December 21, 2012, 08:27 PM   #37
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So far i've only oiled/cleand my EDC after purchasing it.

Its a Glock so.....
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Old December 23, 2012, 11:23 PM   #38
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My edc is a 642, so it doesn't need oil very often...about every three months
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Old December 24, 2012, 12:50 AM   #39
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After cleaning. A couple times a year, maybe.
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Old December 24, 2012, 05:18 PM   #40
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Another thing I really like about Glocks.

When I did carry a blued .38sp, had to hit that little booger with an oil damp rag after every handling.

My G27 gets nothing after handling and still looks like the day I bought it. The only oil it gets is after a cleaning if it's cycled a few hundred rounds. Cleaning is just a dry toothbrushing to knock off dry powder in the action. Oil only on barrel and the few Glock recommended lube spots.
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Old December 25, 2012, 11:31 PM   #41
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I sweat a lot and have developed rust in a few short hours at work before. I use M-Pro 7 LPX Oil. I will generally field strip once a week to blow out any pocket lint and wipe it down with a thin layer of oil. I will also inspect it daily to see if the metal needs a little wipe down.
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Old December 25, 2012, 11:47 PM   #42
drail
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An awful lot of people never change the oil in their engines either. (or even know how)
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Old December 26, 2012, 12:24 AM   #43
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Quote:
I will generally field strip once a week to blow out any pocket lint and wipe it down with a thin layer of oil

About that.. I use an air duster. The ones they sell at Staples or Office Depot, to blow out dust and lint very very often. Almost daily on my EDC.
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Old December 26, 2012, 02:27 AM   #44
Sport45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyWest
Quote:
Originally Posted by Constantine
Only annoying thing with that is over time, that bullet set back on my .45's
I'm probably overly paranoid but bullet setback scares me too after being educated about it here. Now I just throw away the chambered round every time I clean. I figure it's just a small part of the regular cleaning routine.
I just use a generic jhp for the chambered round and keep the premium stuff in the mags. At the range I'll put a mag of practice ammo in and the first shot fired is the generic jhp. When I'm done I'll chamber another jhp and re-insert my mag of defense rounds and I'm ready to go again.

I don't worry about the generic first round being less effective than the rounds that will follow. They'll follow fast enough if it dosn't work. I've tested enough to know that they will feed behind the lesser cost jhp that's chambered.
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