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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: September 6, 2012
Posts: 174
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Cleaning question
Hello everybody! The other day I had some trouble disassembling a firearm and luckily a friend was able to help me fully break it down. After cleaning all the components with Hoppes 9 with a q tip then drying it he instructed me to just reassemble the gun and I only oiled a few parts but I did not oil the trigger group and a few other parts. Is that wrong? I figured you would have to oil the trigger group but he told me it didn't matter. So now I'm worried about that part developing rust. Also I heard if you oil the gas system on an Autoloader shotgun then it will cause the gas system to gum up. Is this true?
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: July 29, 2010
Location: The ATL (OTP)
Posts: 2,102
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The best answer is to lube points as directed by the manufacturer of the specific firearm. There are some places that should not be lubed and other that definitely should be, but without more specifics I’m not sure anyone can offer specific advice.
If it were me I would start at the manufacture’s WEB site and see what information was available. Also, it might not hurt to spend some time with Google and search for specific information about you firearm.
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A major source of objection to a free economy is precisely that it ... gives people what they want instead of what a particular group thinks they ought to want. Underlying most arguments against the free market is a lack of belief in freedom itself. - Milton Friedman |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: August 21, 2011
Location: Western Arizona
Posts: 162
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Two things come to mind...Owners Manual and cleaning patches. Every Owner's Manual will tell you how to disassemble and clean your weapon. If you don't have a manual you can find a pdf version on the manufactures web site.
Cleaning patches are much better than Q-tips, which tend to leave fuzzy stuff all over your working internal parts. Pipe cleaners also work well to get into those hard to reach places and won't leave any fuzzy residue. |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: November 11, 2012
Location: Louisville, Ky.
Posts: 144
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I have broken down and cleaned many firearms in my 56 years but I still depend on the owners manual. If it says oil it I do, if it dosen't say oil it I don't.
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: September 8, 2007
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 10,240
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The only trigger I don't oil is my Jewel because he specifically said not to. The rest I oil.
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#6 |
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Junior member
Join Date: February 2, 2008
Posts: 3,150
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All of the moving parts need a little bit of oil. I'm talking a drop here and there. A little goes a long way. Just make sure NO oil gets on or can seep on to the breech face and wick into a primer. Keep that area dry.
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: November 23, 2009
Posts: 915
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Put a little oil on any moving parts and what they bear against. You can get instructions for your weapon online or by emailing the manufacturer, most of them will ship you a manual, free of charge, or have the information on their website. They don't want to be sued by someone who didn't have the instructions before the accident....
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: June 14, 2004
Location: NY State
Posts: 4,938
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Trouble dissassembling ? Why ?
I've been unable to dissassemble some guns where cheap oil had been used .This oil oxidized to a varnish requiring soaking in a strong solvent just to take apart .These guns must be thoroughly cleaned ,every part , including trigger ! Once cleaned they should be 'lightly' lubed with a very good gun oil all over . If the manual gives specific instructions then follow those.
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And Watson , bring your revolver ! |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: September 6, 2012
Posts: 174
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I do realize this is a dumb question but when you say lube you mean oil right?
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: November 12, 2000
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Posts: 9,457
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moving parts need oil, but not enough to be able to collect dust & lint. What I do is after cleaning the moving parts and they are squeaky clean I put a drop of oil on them and spread it to cover the piece so it has a film all over it. It winds up sitting around for a short while while I am cleaning and oiling other parts etc., and at assembly I try to wipe the oil off with a clean cloth. This leaves oil in the pores of the metal and will be enough to protect against rust. The oiling points in the book for the specific weapon get another drop on assembly so as to be left wet with oil.
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"Always place your clothes and weapons where you can find them in the dark" Lazarus Long "Understand that the enemy is not the enemy in his own eyes ;this may offer you an opportunity to make him your friend. If not, you can kill him without hate, and quickly." Lazarus Long |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: August 8, 2009
Location: Boca Raton, FL
Posts: 1,557
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If it can rust, put an extremely light coat of oil on it unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer/owner's manual.
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May the Schwartz Be With You. NRA Instructor 45Gunner |
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#12 |
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Member
Join Date: November 27, 2012
Posts: 22
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Every metal part in my guns gets oil on it. Even if it's just wiped down with a oily rag. This includes the gas piston on my sks (it does get the lightest coat of oil though, a fairly dry rag with oil on it). Most get disassembled, cleaned, sprayed with oil then wiped with a rag and reassembled.
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#13 | ||
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Senior Member
Join Date: February 16, 2006
Location: IOWA
Posts: 4,401
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Too much lubricant Can hurt you !!!
Quote:
![]() Quote:
![]() You really don't have much to worry about if you routinely inspect and clean your guns. I once had a friend bring his shotgun to me as he could not operate the top mount safety. Yep, it was rusted to the tope of the reciever. .. ![]() Be Safe !!!
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'Fundamental truths' are easy to recognize because they are verified daily through simple observation and thus, require no testing.
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