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Old October 5, 2012, 02:56 PM   #26
rmorgan9718
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reloading abc's

most increments are .1 to .3 grains, but if you weigh each throw individually, then all should be ok. problem with .5 increments is that sometimes throwers 'dump' one charge, and if you are at or near max, that can cause a whole lotta not good.
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Old October 5, 2012, 04:31 PM   #27
p loader
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great point, thanks for that.
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Old October 6, 2012, 08:53 PM   #28
bbqncigars
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p loader:
If you're loading that brass for a semi-auto, consider the RCBS 'X' die for resizing. You trim your brass ONCE, and you're done. At least that's what it has been for my 7.62x51 battle rifles. The other important thing is that once you've found that 'good' load, buy all the components in bulk. This lowers your price per round, and will tend to keep lot number variations to a minimum.
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Old October 6, 2012, 09:07 PM   #29
p loader
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Thanks for the tip, since you are suggesting it I guess the RCBS die will fit in my Lee turret?

I have an M1A so hope to load 7.62x51 once I get this figured out.

And you are correct I hope to find a good load and order enough to punch out 5k to 10k rounds. All in due time.
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Old October 9, 2012, 05:17 PM   #30
p loader
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Okaaaaaaaaaaay

So I have all of my equipment and have been working very slowly towards making my first real live round. I have encountered issues....

Today's priority was to get all of my dies set in correctly, and to make a bullet (minus primer and powder) which measured at the correct length.

1- Lube case
2- Place in shell holder, run up and knock out the primer
3- Pull case out, wonder why the old primer is stuck in the "holder thing" and not falling into the tube.
4- Use chamfer tool and remove crimp from military case (just to get practice)
5- Skip to bullet placement die (is that what it's called?), screw around with it trying to get bullets + case to equal the correct overall correct length.
6- Measure each case + bullet and work towards getting the right length.
7- Realize that each round, the shoulder (near the bullet) is getting smashed, creating a lip on the case.
8- Call Dennis and Titan Reloading (where I bought the Lee Equipment).
9- Dennis says my depriming pin isn't set right, so it's not pushing the old primers out far enough. He also says I need to experiment (he explained it in detail) with the bullet placement die so I get the overall correct length and don't over crimp. Basically I just have it set wrong.
10- Give up for the day before I get frustrated.

Once I get this whole thing figured out, I'll start adding powder into the mix and measure the dump from each try. After that I'll move to the next step of creating live round.

SLOWLY but surely.
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Old October 9, 2012, 06:07 PM   #31
1stmar
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You may want to detail how you adjusted your dies... It sounds like you need to do 2 things:

1. Adjust the decaping pin. Do this without turning your sizing die but loosen the nut at the top and then turn the stem and retighten

2. When you adjust you bullet seating depth do not adjust the die, only the seating stem. Essentially the same way you adjust the decapping pin above.
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Old October 11, 2012, 04:41 AM   #32
p loader
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Thanks 1stmar

I got the decapping pin adjusted and bullet seating depth correct. I can now take a shell, knock the primer out, seat a bullet to correct overall length (measured with calipers) and factory crimp.

I've washed my powder dispensing equipment in mild soapy water and let dry. Next step is to include primers and powder and I *should* have a live round.
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Old October 11, 2012, 05:16 PM   #33
Misssissippi Dave
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One thing I do with a new powder measure is to wipe it down with a dryer sheet. Bounce or any other anti static type should do. I like them to help remove any static there might be especially when there is plastic involved. After that I operate them a few times to dump any foreign matter before adding powder. Once the powder is in it dump a few just to settle things down a bit. After that you can start to see about getting it set for the amount of powder you want to get. There are some people that put graphite in there new powder measure and then keep dumping it to season the measure.
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Old October 12, 2012, 05:57 PM   #34
p loader
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Dave

Great tips on the dryer sheet, why didn't I think of that! Thanks again.
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Old October 12, 2012, 10:29 PM   #35
tkglazie
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Used dryer sheets are certainly handy for reloading. I save all ours now and cut them into strips and keep them in a ziplock bag. They are great for wiping down powder measures and for keeping tumbling media clean.

Who knew?
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Old October 13, 2012, 01:13 PM   #36
the led farmer
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Quote:
3- Pull case out, wonder why the old primer is stuck in the "holder thing" and not falling into the tube.
do you have the lever prime in the ram (the thing that holds the primer)? plop that thing in there you need it when depriming

Quote:
7- Realize that each round, the shoulder (near the bullet) is getting smashed, creating a lip on the case.
here you are buckling the shoulder. the culprit is your bullet seating die/crimp die is improperly set up. you are forcing too much brass into the crimp ring causing the shoulder to fail so you get buckling like a mushroom tip.

you gotta back off die a bit and re-adjust

check these videos out if you haven't already Lee Die Adjustment

Last edited by the led farmer; October 13, 2012 at 01:25 PM.
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Old October 13, 2012, 09:06 PM   #37
p loader
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Thanks much farmer.

Here is my question, if I'm using the bullet seating die correctly and achieving the correct OAL, there is NO need to crimp at that station if my next station is the Factory Crimp Die...right?

Just wondering
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Old October 13, 2012, 09:57 PM   #38
the led farmer
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Quote:
Here is my question, if I'm using the bullet seating die correctly and achieving the correct OAL, there is NO need to crimp at that station if my next station is the Factory Crimp Die...right

IF you are using the bullet seating die to seat the bullet ONLY and NOT to crimp then you are correct, you DO NOT want to crimp here. If you are not clear on how to do this pm me. Also i assume you are using lee dies i am not sure you specified)
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Old October 13, 2012, 09:58 PM   #39
tkglazie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p loader View Post
Thanks much farmer.

Here is my question, if I'm using the bullet seating die correctly and achieving the correct OAL, there is NO need to crimp at that station if my next station is the Factory Crimp Die...right?

Just wondering
Correct. I just set my seating die to "mostly" remove the bellmouth and set my 4th die (like you, I use an FCD) to completely remove it (crimp)
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Old October 13, 2012, 10:12 PM   #40
the led farmer
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there shouldn't be a bell for you to take out. after trimming, you should be chamfering, this creates bevel for the bullet to feed into the neck smoothly.

belling the case mouth is a pistol thing

Last edited by the led farmer; October 13, 2012 at 10:58 PM.
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Old October 16, 2012, 10:34 PM   #41
p loader
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Thanks all, led farmer you have a PM inbound
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