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Old September 15, 2012, 07:16 PM   #51
snuffy
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If you're looking for pure alcohol, go to the hardware store in the paint aisle, get a quart of denatured alcohol. It's methanol, not ethanol., much cheaper.

I use it to take lube off a few cases that I use one of the lanolin lubes on. If I'm doing rifle cases lubed with a lanolin lube in my dillon 650, then I simply tumble them in new corn cob for 20 minutes after they're finished loading.
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Old September 15, 2012, 09:58 PM   #52
Sport45
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Quote:
If you're looking for pure alcohol, go to the hardware store in the paint aisle, get a quart of denatured alcohol. It's methanol, not ethanol., much cheaper.
You sure about that? I thought it was mostly ethanol with enough methanol added to "denature" it (make it undrinkable).

In either case it should work fine for this.
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Old September 15, 2012, 11:33 PM   #53
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To take the lube off my cases I give them a quick wash in gas. I do it outside using a tim can, let the cases dry in the sun.

Dangerous? Not much moreso than gasing up the lawnmower. Just use a little common sense, it is out there somewhere!
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Old September 16, 2012, 12:17 AM   #54
Marco Califo
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Quote:
Everclear is 190 proof.
Actually it varies by state. In California 151 proof Bacardi is the highest proof ethanol sold. I believe Cali Everclear is 151. 190+ proof is available in Mexico as Cano (rum) and all-purpose farmacia stuff.

But why?
I use Lithium grease on a shop rag and tumble it off.
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Old September 16, 2012, 01:32 PM   #55
Woody55
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I lube rifle cartridge cases with a pad and whatever the RCBS stuff you squirt on it is called. And, per the book, I lube the inside of the neck.

I've tried all sorts of ways to get it off.

Most recently, I used the vibrating tumbler with water once with dish washing soap and water and once with just water (to get the soap off). Then I heated the brass on the stove to get it dry.

It worked fine. Took 20 minutes and the brass is clean.

Only bad thing is having to wait for my wife to go out so I can steal her stove and a pot.
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Old October 3, 2012, 11:30 AM   #56
rebs
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I wanted to give the Dillo case lube a try, but I guess its only available directly from them and with the shipping it cost like 16.70 a bottle. I just can't justify paying that much for one bottle of lube to try.
The RCBS spray case lube is available locally so I guess I am going to give it a try and see how it works. When doing a couple hundred cases the RCBS pad just seems too slow.
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Old October 3, 2012, 10:00 PM   #57
Sport45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rebs
When doing a couple hundred cases the RCBS pad just seems too slow.
Nah. You can lube cases on a pad just about as fast as you can pick handfuls out of one bucket and drop them in another.
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Old October 5, 2012, 03:52 PM   #58
BigV
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Here's a recipe I use for homemade case lube.
I load .223 and .22-250 using steel die sets and never had any issues.
I dump 50 or so cases into a shoe box and spray them while shaking the box. Let dry for 15 minutes or so. It's cheap and works great.

Home Made Case Lube

Step One -Gather contents -
Liquid Lanolin (100% pure was $7.00 at the local health food store)
Isopropyl Alcohol (at minimum 91% $1.19 at the local drug store - 99% is best couldn't find it)
If you go to an Auto Store ISO HEET is 99% Isopropyl
New or Clean spray bottle (from the "Dollar" store) has ratio markings and ounce markings so it helps


Step Two
Warm the Lanolin in warm tap water (110 to 120 degrees F - NO OPEN FLAMES!)
Do the same for the IPA, this will help in the mixing process.

Step Three
Pour 2 (two) ounces of the warmed Lanolin into the spray bottle

Step Four
Pour 16 (sixteen) ounces of the warmed IPA into the spray bottle giving you an 1:8 ratio
This seem to be the ratio that best mimics Dillon Spray Lube (add more IPA if you feel it is too thick in your dies)

Step Five
Shake until contents becomes homogonized and label the bottle accordingly (so you don't confuse it with CLP or something)

Then proceed to lube cases as needed. I left some room in case I needed to adjust the ratio depending on the dies and how finiky they may be. This Ratio seems to work fine for me.
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Old October 7, 2012, 01:19 PM   #59
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For handgun brass being sized in carbide dies, I just tumble in media with NuFinish added. It significantly reduces the sizing effort as compared with just clean brass.

For rifle brass I roll them on a paper shop towel with some Castrol Synthetic motor oil. I also polish the interior of my sizing dies with Flitz. The synthetic oil is quick to apply, makes sizing easy, and comes off quickly when tumbled in media with some OMS (odorless mineral spirits) added.

Prior to converting to synthetic motor oil I used:

- original RCBS sizing lube applied on the RCBS pad. Lubed well, but easy to get too much on and dent case necks. Messy to remove
- Lee sizing lube. Harder to apply evenly, easy to remove, can rust your dies since it is water based. A very good lube. My understanding is this is used in commercial brass drawing processes.
- Imperial sizing wax. Great lube, low sizing effort but way too slow to apply for me.

I can size 750 rounds per hour, lubing, sizing, inspecting when using synthetic oil. It doesn't take much and if you miss a case it sizes just fine. I decided to give it a try after seeing a YouTube video where a guy was using it. I am probably willing to try anything, but just really like how well it works for me. No dents, no stuck cases, no time limit. I just read too may posts about folks sticking cases with spray on lubes.
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