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Old October 5, 2012, 08:45 AM   #26
Rifleman1776
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I have used WD-40 extensively and with great results. #2 has been Break-Free CLP. #3 Recently started using Ballistol because of the great comments on it I have seen for years. So far it seems very good. Parts move easier. Not in use by me long enough for complete evaluation.
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Old October 5, 2012, 04:07 PM   #27
cw308
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Ballistol. I have used different gun oils over many years, Ballistol is my choice. Go on line and check it out. Will not harm wood,but is not good for nickel plating, will get under the plating. It is slicker than most oiles. MidwayUSA has it, most gunsmiths know of it. Hope it helps, be safe out there. Chris
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Old October 5, 2012, 10:22 PM   #28
warbirdlover
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Quote:
Mobil One 10W-30. $$$ Millions of research dollars have been spend on automotive oils and as a class they are outstanding lubricants. Diesel lubricants even have more additives and I am going to try a bottle eventually. I am of the opinion that gun oils are repackaged industrial oils or plain mineral oil without additives. Not worth spending a premium for.
Sorry but gotta take exception to this statement about diesel lubricants having even more additives in them.

I re-wrote the oil specs for our heavy duty (marine and high horsepower) transmissions and worked closely with all the experts from Exxon-Mobil, Castrol (BP) etc. and based on their input we recommended diesel engine oils because they DIDN'T have as many additives as the other oils. These additives cause the clutch plates in a transmission to slip. Too slippery is not good. Normal engine oils have much more additives in them. Now this is for single grade oils and multi-grade oils. The trend, however, is for more additives being added to ALL oils but the diesel oils still have less. The additives in the diesel oil is so the truckers can go many more miles between oil changes but those additives are to extend the time before the "shear" of the additives in multi-vis oils cause the oil to no longer be the heavier grade and NOT to make them "slipperier".

I think I just confused myself!!!
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Old October 8, 2012, 08:58 PM   #29
481
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Originally Posted by 10-96:
That's one of my big wonderments too. I went through both the Beretta and Sig Sauer LE Armorers courses with the actual factory reps. Neither one cared one way or the other which lube product was used, but both were quite vocal about using products designed and made for firearms and not products made for the automotive/marine industry. Neither one though very highly of any of the greases either.
Believe me, there are days where I truly think about buying a case of Mobil 1 0w20, 10w40, and 15w50, a couple hundred of those little 1/2 ounce needle oiler bottles from Brownells and going into business for myself with a nice little product line. I don't have names for 'em yet, but I bet I could come up with some pretty darned quick.

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Old October 9, 2012, 08:22 AM   #30
Eppie
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First a disclaimer, I no affiliation with the product I am about the recommend I'm just a user.

This may be a little off topic, because we're talking here about disposable lubricants, but I have a POF 308 that is NP3 coated. It is my favorite rifle, and if you haven't had any experience with NP3 it's really something to behold. After putting a 100+ rounds downrange, the rifle is clean and cool, not ever really worth cleaning. The fact that it is a piston rifle it has a lot to do with that.



I am considering having my Savage 10 and other "keeper" pistols treated, the only reason I haven't is because I like cleaning my guns. If you don't, this may be an excellent option

It is a submicron steel coating that once applied it requires no lubrication. I have this link, but there may be others that do it as well.

http://www.robarguns.com/np3.htm
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Old October 9, 2012, 08:32 AM   #31
Pistolgripshotty
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Lucas oil is best in my opinion
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