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Old October 4, 2012, 10:21 PM   #1
bushmaster65
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treso bronze nipples

OK, so I got my treso Bronze nipples from TOW and they are a nice fit in my walker. Only thing is, they are just a C*** hair to big for #11's!!!!
If I put the cap in place, it is literally right up against the back plate of the frame. Making it ripe for a hell-uv-a chain fire. The stock nips for the walker look like they might be for #10's as #11's are so loose you can wiggle them from side to side.
So, will a very carefull file job be acceptable? to reduce the outside diameter just a bit. Any body out there had to do this?
Also, the hole at the bottom of the nipple (fire port?) is noticeably smaller than the stock nipples.
Is this good/bad? Normal for Treso's?

Thanks in advance for any advice you all might have for me.
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Old October 4, 2012, 10:39 PM   #2
Fingers McGee
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I've always found that #10 Remington caps work best on Treso cones; with RWS 1075s and Remington 11s following close behind. CCIs, whether 10s or 11s don't.

The smaller flash hole is normal and is there to reduce the flash back on ignition and help keep the fired caps from falling off he cone.
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Old October 5, 2012, 03:57 PM   #3
Roshi
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11's work OK

11 Remmington work on the Tresco's on my 51 Navy and on a 62 Pocket Navy I just sold.
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Old October 5, 2012, 11:23 PM   #4
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The Treso flash holes to me, always seemed too small. I like the TOW stainless steel replacement nipples. They have a smaller flash hole than the usual stock nipples but take the Remington #10 cap perfectly.
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Old October 6, 2012, 08:26 AM   #5
Rifleman1776
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Use #10s. Problem solved.
BTW, small flash holes direct the flame directly into the powder.
Treso nipples are highly effective and are probably the #1 used by avid muzzle loading shooters.
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Old October 6, 2012, 10:23 AM   #6
Foto Joe
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It's not the length of the nipple that's giving you problems, it's more than likely the taper being wider at the base preventing the caps that you are using from seating down all the way.

If you can't find the proper caps to fit it you "can" chuck the nipple into a drill press and use emory paper to reduce the taper but tread lightly here. It's only a very small amount that will need to be removed before you're going to have the same problem you did with the stock nipples.

Try finding caps that will work first.
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Old October 6, 2012, 11:12 AM   #7
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Treso's shouldn't need to be filed or fitted.
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Old October 6, 2012, 08:19 PM   #8
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All right,
Here's what I'm getting out of this post...
The CCI #11's are the lowest quality and worst fitting of the caps on the market.
I need to find remington #10's or #11's in order to get better fitting caps.
The only thing I have locally is CCI from walmart. On the internet they want to charge $25. haz mat fee for shipping so I would have to buy quantity to make it worth it.
I love C&B revolvers, I love C&B revolvers, I love C&B revolvers........
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Old October 6, 2012, 10:56 PM   #9
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Bushmaster, The CCIs aren't the lowest quality caps; but they just don't fit Treso Nipples worth a hoot.

An alternative to Treso nipples are the new Slix-Shot nipples available from Desperado Cowboy Bullets (http://cowboybullets.com/Products.html). I've tried a set of slix-shot nipples with #10 and #11 Remingtons, #11 CCIs and RWS 1075s, and all worked flawlessly. Didn't try CCI 10s cause I didn't have any.
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Old October 7, 2012, 09:36 AM   #10
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I guess it depends on the individual application. I'd estimate that 98% of the time I'm using CCI caps both #10 & #11 depending upon the gun. My Walker uses #11 CCI's on Treso nipples with no problem. I know that a bunch of folks swear by the Remmington caps but I just don't see 'em in the places where I buy caps.

I understand the reluctance to pay a $25 haz-mat fee believe me, especially for caps. I also would be less than thrilled to attempt to modify nipples simply because getting all six the same would present a problem. My suggestion about the emory cloth was to prevent somebody from filing the ends off of them which would result in junk nipples real quick.

One of the things that I'm curious about and maybe I missed it in my reading of the thread but the OP states that the caps are too close to the recoil shield. Are they actually rubbing on it making it difficult to turn the cylinder or are they just really close?? Also is the cap going off on first strike or are you having problems getting the gun to go off the first time the hammer hits the cap?? If they're close to the recoil shield and the gun does fire on first strike then I don't really see a problem. I've got an 1860 that I have to "wiggle" the little buggers on (Ted Cash capper) just right or they'll rub and/or mis-fire. It's simply a technique when it comes to capping that particlar gun, stock nipples by the way. Since I don't shoot competetively I don't change out nipples unless I have to either because of blow-back or egg shaped stock nipples.
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Old October 7, 2012, 12:51 PM   #11
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Foto Joe,
Get a "push stick". A 3/8" dowel, rear end of a BIC pen, etc. to push the caps further on. They should not rub on the recoil shield at all. To me, that means they are not yet fully seated and are sticking out. You may have a strong hammer spring that is hitting hard enough to smash them down both seating them fully and setting them off.
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Old October 7, 2012, 01:26 PM   #12
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What Hellgate said. A capper really isn't strong enough to seat caps.
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Old October 7, 2012, 10:34 PM   #13
Fingers McGee
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I use a Ted Case revolver (snail) capper to install and seat caps on all my revolvers. Takes a little practice; but it can be done. I do not have missfires.
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Old October 8, 2012, 09:34 AM   #14
Foto Joe
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Hellgate,

You may have mis-understood what I meant or I might not have put it across correctly for that matter. I haven't really had any problems with that '60 and the caps fitting but it did teach me to modify my capping technique a bit.

It's hard to explain without a visual but when I cap using the snail capper I simply push down with my thumb on the capper right behind the cap and give her a little "wiggle" before I pull the capper off. I do this out of habit now on all my guns but on that particular one if I'm lax they won't be seated completely, then I grab the popsicle stick and lean on the cap a little more. Having one of those little buggers rub on the recoil shield as the cylinder rotates another chamber into battery would give me the willy's I'm afraid. It isn't a big enough problem to warrant buying Treso or Stainless nipples for it.
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Old October 8, 2012, 09:19 PM   #15
bushmaster65
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Ok, this is what I bought from TOW. I'm including pics and just before this post installed all nips and only ONE would actually accept a #11 CCI cap!
There are 3 more nipple types listed after this one for walkers with the last two in stock. One has a cone measurment of .430 I believe. Anybody care to look at these listings I've mentioned and make a suggestion? I don't see how these things are ever going to work. I reinstalled one of the stock nipples for comparison.



Nipple, 1/4-28 thread, for 1847 Walker & Dragoon revolvers by most mfg., Ampco bronze
Part Number: RST-WA

http://i828.photobucket.com/albums/z...008_205338.jpg
http://i828.photobucket.com/albums/z...008_205159.jpg
http://i828.photobucket.com/albums/z...008_205143.jpg
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Old October 9, 2012, 12:32 AM   #16
arcticap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bushmaster65
Anybody care to look at these listings I've mentioned and make a suggestion?
The choices would be to either return them or try to make a custom fit by carefully dressing them with emery cloth or a suitable abrasive. Clembert seems to have had a similar problem in the thread below. The nipples can certainly be made to be smaller, just be sure to do it carefully.

Treso Ampco nipples for Uberti Walker

http://thefiringline.com/forums/show...&highlight=rst

Last edited by arcticap; October 9, 2012 at 01:21 AM.
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Old October 13, 2012, 10:07 PM   #17
bushmaster65
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Update to this post

So I found a local supplier of #10 CCI's and hurried home. Installed the stock nipples back onto my Walker and ALL but one accepted the #10's. Would you believe that one nipple is STILL just a hair to small for a #10?! I little pinch and she stayed put. All cylinders dry fired with a resounding CRACK!. My Dragoon takes #11;s and one was still to big. Placed it into my drill press, very carefully used 120 grit to take it down and she is good to go. Gonna see if TOW will take back the nipples I bought for store credit or something. Don't have any use now for these huge bronze things.
Thanxs to all for your help. I love this forum and this sport...
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Old October 14, 2012, 09:46 AM   #18
Foto Joe
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Out of curiosity, who is the maker of your Walker??
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Old October 14, 2012, 03:36 PM   #19
bushmaster65
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both of my pistols are Uberti. The stamping on the sides that the other manufacturers do is ugly as hell. If I was versed in filling in lettering and rebluing I would buy one of them.
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Old October 14, 2012, 10:08 PM   #20
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I have 5 Piettas, 2 ROAs, a Colt and an Uberti 1862. I have switched all of them to Treso nipples and use only Remington #10 caps on them all. I have had not a single problem since I switched to them.
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Old October 14, 2012, 10:57 PM   #21
Hellgate
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Bushmaster,
If you are just using the Walker for casual shooting you could keep that small nipple as the "open" chamber where you let the hammer rest. Otherwise I would make it the first chamber to be fired. That way, even if the cap is a little loose it is not likely to fall off if pinched. If it is not fired first and capped, the recoil could cause the cap to fall off. If it is the first to fire then no problem and the rest will stay on anyway.
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Old October 15, 2012, 10:56 AM   #22
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I cannot seat caps to my satisfaction without the use of a "push stick".
I have studied how fingers McGee seats his caps with a "flick of the wrist" for about 5 years now and still can't do it. I use a piece of unicorn horn that I found along the edge of an enchanted forest.
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Old October 15, 2012, 08:08 PM   #23
bushmaster65
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yeah hellgate, I was thinking the same thing. sanding the shoulder white would do it.I'm going to make another attempt at treso's from TOW that say they they are for "italian" walker and dragoons for #10 rems or cci.
They advertise the same for #11's
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Old October 15, 2012, 08:09 PM   #24
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NOZ

I hope you had a tag for that Unicorn.
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Old October 18, 2012, 09:34 AM   #25
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both of my pistols are Uberti. The stamping on the sides that the other manufacturers do is ugly as hell. If I was versed in filling in lettering and rebluing I would buy one of them.

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