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Old August 31, 2012, 03:38 PM   #1
tr6driver
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.36 cal Pocket Pistol help

Acquired another revolver (last one). A .36 cal pocket pistol. It has case hardened frame. What kind of load am I looking at? There is a drag mark on the Cylinder. After a thorough cleaning, it appears the bolt does not retract in half cock every time. Is there something I can do to correct that? This gun was so full of grease, it took me a day and a half to clean it. The old grease had hardened. Carb cleaner took care of most of it but a lot of picking and brushing to complete it.

Fired the 1860 Stainless colt yesterday. Really tight group but shoots high with a 30 gr load at 20 yards. Thought I will try 24 gr. Aim point is about 6-8" below impact.

This forum has been a big help in getting me started. Thanks Again

Bill
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Old August 31, 2012, 05:35 PM   #2
Chowmif16
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Revolver tuning

Tr6driver,
I had to do some work on an 1849 pocket revolver, and found the following link to be extremely helpful. I think, in the end, you will find that you might end up filing the top of the bolt.
http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/

Refer to the "tuning the Pietta" part 1 and 2.

As for the load, don't worry too much. If you can fit powder and ball into the chamber, you won't be over-doing it.
Colt Blackpowder (no relation to the Real Colt) recommends 12-20gr for their Colt Signature Series 1862 Pocket Police, with 15 gr being the suggested load.
Short is, find the load your gun likes the best. It' likely not to be the largest powder charge the gun will hold. I'd start at 15gr 3F and go up and down from there.
Consider a filler such as corn meal to bring the ball close to the mouth of the chamber. Corn meal is compressible, so you don't have to be precise with it.
That's a pretty gun, wish I had one...
Cheers,
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Old August 31, 2012, 05:37 PM   #3
Chowmif16
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Oh, and,
All the Colt's shoot high at shorter ranges. Don't qoute me on this, but I believe they're meant to shoot on target at about 75yds.
Makes it more fun...
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Old September 1, 2012, 07:03 PM   #4
Hawg
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If the bolt isn't retracting every time but is some of the time then there's prolly a burr somewhere. The main cause of a cylinder line is letting the hammer down from half cock.
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Old September 2, 2012, 06:42 AM   #5
madcratebuilder
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16-18grs is a good starting point for a .36 Colt. Colt spec's are 15-20 with 15 recommended. I use 18grs in my open top .36's.

All that grease may be causing the bolt drop issue. The bolt arm may need a bit more tension on the hammer cam.
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Old September 2, 2012, 07:24 AM   #6
Doc Hoy
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MCB + 1

In some revolvers, the bolt acts differently when the cylinder is removed.

I think that is because in some revolvers the cylinder stops the bolt's motion in time to keep it from sticking in the extended position.

In those revolvers when the cylinder is removed, the bolt extends a bit too far and sticks in the extended position. This locks up the revolver until the bolt is forced to the retracted position by pushing it with thumb or forefinger.

My point is...Take a look at the Pettifogger articles to understand the hammer bolt interface as suggested by F16. My terribly underinformed thought is that MCB is right. (He has a lot more experience than I do.)
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Old September 3, 2012, 05:07 AM   #7
swopjan
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Quote:
Acquired another revolver (last one).
Yeah, right

I've been saying that for a couple years now and somehow I still ended up with 12 of them.
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Old September 4, 2012, 08:54 PM   #8
bushmaster65
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Quote:
I've been saying that for a couple years now and somehow I still ended up with 12 of them.

Lord I've only got two...got a lot of catchin up to do...
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Old September 4, 2012, 09:35 PM   #9
swopjan
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Quote:
Lord I've only got two...got a lot of catchin up to do...
Better hurry before I get SA and DA Starrs, a Patterson, a LeMat, an 1861 Navy, an 1855 Root and the Walker/1st/2nd/3rd model Dragoons. Bills? Who pays bills these days?
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