Parts for an old H&R .32 top-break

FloridaVeteran · August 18, 2012, 09:12 PM

I have an H&R top break, auto. ejecting 32 S&W Ctge., SN# 1842xx, that is missing the tiny little straight pin above the barrel assembly hinge, the one that holds the cylinder on. Imagine it would be called the cylinder retention pin.

Anyone know the best place(s) to look for a replacement pin?

Bore is very clean and revolver looks very shootable with low-power ammo. Too bad the barrel is almost 5" or I could have used it for a CAS pocket-pistol side match.

KyJim · August 18, 2012, 09:17 PM

You might try Jack First Gunshop or Numrich.

FloridaVeteran · August 18, 2012, 09:43 PM

Thanks, KyJim - I went to Numrich. It looks like you have to buy a PDF of the schematic first. Seems like an odd business model, especially when you have to guess which model you've got. Having said that, I'm pretty confident mine is the "old model auto ejecting," so I'm going to hunt around for a free-to-view schematic.

Jack First also sells their parts books that are not viewable online. LOL - sounds like the voting on Obamacare - you have to buy the book first to see if they have the part you want, so that you can then pay for the part if they have it.

Clifford L. Hughes · August 18, 2012, 09:58 PM

FlordiaVetern:

Some of these old top breaks are not safe to fire. Before you fire it make sure that the cylanders lock up in alignment with the barrel. Better yet, have a gun smith check it out to see if it is worth spending money on.

Semper Fi.

Gunnery Sergeant
Clifford L. Hughes
USMC Retired

FloridaVeteran · August 18, 2012, 10:21 PM

Clifford - thanks - I will do that. Can't check it now because without that pin, the cylinder free-spins. The gun has been in the family at least 60 years and it was old then. I suppose if I had better sense I'd just give it to someone who collects those, but I've been curious to see how it might shoot. That said, there is a dollar limit to my curiosity.

**James K** · August 18, 2012, 10:32 PM

I think you are talking about the quill pin. (Not a play on "quill pen" - the part the cylinder rotates on in those revolvers is called the quill; the little cross pin that holds the quill in is called the quill pin.)

The quill pin only holds the quill in place and usually the quill is in so tight that the pin isn't really needed. If it is missing, it can be replaced by about anything of the right size, like a piece of a small nail; there is no strain on it.

If I am right so far, then I fail to see how that pin could affect the cylinder rotation or cause it to free wheel unless the cylinder is rusted so tightly to the quill that the quill turns with the cylinder, in which case keeping the quill from turning won't solve your problem.

I think there is a lot more wrong with that old revolver than just a missing quill pin.

Jim

osbornk · August 20, 2012, 10:28 PM

I'm nearly 65 and my mother had the same gun when she was a teenager (it was old then). I had it until a couple of years ago until I gave it to my brother for safekeeping. It is loose and rattley in every way and I think it would be dangerous to shoot. However, apparently my father used it in that condition because he used it to kill hogs with in the early 60s and it hasn't been used since. I wouldn't have the nerve to shoot it with modern ammunition even if it was tight.

August 18, 2012, 09:12 PM	#1
FloridaVeteran Senior Member Join Date: July 26, 2012 Location: Central Florida Posts: 399	Parts for an old H&R .32 top-break I have an H&R top break, auto. ejecting 32 S&W Ctge., SN# 1842xx, that is missing the tiny little straight pin above the barrel assembly hinge, the one that holds the cylinder on. Imagine it would be called the cylinder retention pin. Anyone know the best place(s) to look for a replacement pin? Bore is very clean and revolver looks very shootable with low-power ammo. Too bad the barrel is almost 5" or I could have used it for a CAS pocket-pistol side match.

August 18, 2012, 09:17 PM	#2
KyJim Senior Member Join Date: July 26, 2005 Location: The Bluegrass Posts: 6,608	You might try Jack First Gunshop or Numrich. __________________ Jim's Rules of Carry: 1. Any gun is better than no gun. 2. A gun that is reliable is better than a gun that is not. 3. A hole in the right place is better than a hole in the wrong place. 4. A bigger hole is a better hole.

August 18, 2012, 10:32 PM	#6
James K Staff Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 16,617	I think you are talking about the quill pin. (Not a play on "quill pen" - the part the cylinder rotates on in those revolvers is called the quill; the little cross pin that holds the quill in is called the quill pin.) The quill pin only holds the quill in place and usually the quill is in so tight that the pin isn't really needed. If it is missing, it can be replaced by about anything of the right size, like a piece of a small nail; there is no strain on it. If I am right so far, then I fail to see how that pin could affect the cylinder rotation or cause it to free wheel unless the cylinder is rusted so tightly to the quill that the quill turns with the cylinder, in which case keeping the quill from turning won't solve your problem. I think there is a lot more wrong with that old revolver than just a missing quill pin. Jim __________________ Jim K

August 18, 2012, 09:43 PM	#3
FloridaVeteran Senior Member Join Date: July 26, 2012 Location: Central Florida Posts: 399	Thanks, KyJim - I went to Numrich. It looks like you have to buy a PDF of the schematic first. Seems like an odd business model, especially when you have to guess which model you've got. Having said that, I'm pretty confident mine is the "old model auto ejecting," so I'm going to hunt around for a free-to-view schematic. Jack First also sells their parts books that are not viewable online. LOL - sounds like the voting on Obamacare - you have to buy the book first to see if they have the part you want, so that you can then pay for the part if they have it.

August 18, 2012, 09:58 PM	#4
Clifford L. Hughes Senior Member Join Date: February 24, 2011 Location: Southern Californis Posts: 795	FlordiaVetern: Some of these old top breaks are not safe to fire. Before you fire it make sure that the cylanders lock up in alignment with the barrel. Better yet, have a gun smith check it out to see if it is worth spending money on. Semper Fi. Gunnery Sergeant Clifford L. Hughes USMC Retired

August 18, 2012, 10:21 PM	#5
FloridaVeteran Senior Member Join Date: July 26, 2012 Location: Central Florida Posts: 399	Clifford - thanks - I will do that. Can't check it now because without that pin, the cylinder free-spins. The gun has been in the family at least 60 years and it was old then. I suppose if I had better sense I'd just give it to someone who collects those, but I've been curious to see how it might shoot. That said, there is a dollar limit to my curiosity.

August 20, 2012, 10:28 PM	#7
osbornk Senior Member Join Date: August 11, 2012 Location: Marion, Va Posts: 141	I'm nearly 65 and my mother had the same gun when she was a teenager (it was old then). I had it until a couple of years ago until I gave it to my brother for safekeeping. It is loose and rattley in every way and I think it would be dangerous to shoot. However, apparently my father used it in that condition because he used it to kill hogs with in the early 60s and it hasn't been used since. I wouldn't have the nerve to shoot it with modern ammunition even if it was tight.