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Old August 17, 2012, 07:15 AM   #1
300winchester
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Hornady AP case feeder issues

Well I see alot !!! of blogs on this topic. Right out of the box problems for me. Read manual, tried 100 times to adjust cam wire. wont feed good in shell plate. After reading many articles, blogs , etc i noticed that the pawls are not tight ? they should be yes ? I think this might be and indexing issue on the shell plate not allowing my shells to go into the shell plate properly. Other question is , can I use a carbide rifle die without lube to do the deprime resize. I am also thinking of purchasing the Dillon RT 1200 case trimmer. any other case trimmers people are using would like to know about. Thanks all in advance. Loaded for 30 years on a single stage, so this progressive rifle is new to me.
thanks
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Old August 17, 2012, 08:20 AM   #2
CS86
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I can't really help you with the subject, but I was curious what caliber you are trying to work with?
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Old August 17, 2012, 09:00 AM   #3
300winchester
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.223
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Old August 17, 2012, 09:26 AM   #4
griff383
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Try putting your cam wire all the way down, then youll have to play with the v-block to fine tune.

These things are great when they run perfect but its the getting them perfect part that is a pain in the butt and can take a while
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Old August 17, 2012, 03:40 PM   #5
PA-Joe
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There are instruction in the manual on how to adjust the cam wire. You have to turn the nuts either up or down so that the v does not get stuck and the cases go into the die. If you go to the Hornady webpage they have a video on how to adjust the wire nuts. You also have to tighten the v noch a certain way.

As far as I know they do not make carbide dies for bottle neck cases. Only for pistol cases.
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Old August 17, 2012, 05:58 PM   #6
wwmkwood
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I load 223 for ARs with the AP and dinged rims sometimes make puting them into the shell holder by hand a challenge. I've always run them in three steps; deprime before cleaning, resize with lube before trimming and polishing to remove lube and last run to actually load. Running them in one operation may work for you but considering you will have to use some type of sizing lube I would save the case feeder for hand gun ammo.
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Old August 17, 2012, 06:55 PM   #7
dunerjeff
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I would think you should be able to use the case feeder for .223,it usually has to be pushed down as far as it can go to work.

Which pawls are you saying are not tight? The ones on the bottom of the ram that rotates the shellplate are. You adjust the with the screw on the side of the ram or at each one,its the height that gets set down there.Otherwise the two fingers that turn the ram are loose, they are spring loaded.

As far as lube,I belive Dillon makes carbide for .223, but you should still use lube.I don't see it posible to resize a rifle case without it.The pressure it would take, even if it wouldn't seize, would be rather hard on the press as well as your arm.
I'd do as previously noted, size and deprime seperate.
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Old August 18, 2012, 05:10 AM   #8
Whisper 300
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I have reloaded well over 10000 223/5.56 on mi LnL Progressive with nary a hiccup but as was previously mentioned , the nut that adjusts the guide wire/cam needs to be adjusted quite a ways down-I think I have about 1 thread showing on mine.
I also tend to de-prime in a separate step using a Lee Universal depriming die so as not to break the pin if I happen to pick up a crimped case - very hard to discern case ownership at the range when 223 brass is pitched thither and yon.

Other than that, I use Hornady spray lube - let it DRY!!- and regular(non-carbide) dies as it is my understanding you still need lube on carbide rifle dies anyway and i really, really detest having to pull out a stuck case.

Try adjusting the wire and you should fix the dilemma.
One last thing, I do find it helpful to sort of steady the top of the case as it feeds into the shellplate-just a finger on the top to hold it til the plate and spring have it.

Gary
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Old August 18, 2012, 07:47 AM   #9
Nathan
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You want to lube rifle cases. Lubed vs unlubed pushes the shoulder back different amounts.

Also, how do you take the crimp out of the primer pockets without an off press operation. I can go 50ish crimped reprimes, but 1 in 50 locks the press up so bad I have to take the shellplate off. So, now I decap, remove crimp, trim(measured long ones) and then load.
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