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Old August 9, 2012, 01:12 PM   #1
jclayto
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Old Mec 600jr question - charge bar

I picked up a old used 600 jr recently but it did not come with a charge bar. I ordered the charge bar and powder bushing but realized after it arrived that I do not have the hex screw that goes into the powder bar to stop it as it slides from side to side.

Does anyone know what size / thread type this should be? I am going to go to my local hardware store and pick one up tonight but don't have the bar with me to size it up.
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Old August 9, 2012, 01:19 PM   #2
snuffy
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¼X20, get a flat/round head screw, but ANY ¼X20 bolt or screw will work.
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Old August 9, 2012, 04:54 PM   #3
steve4102
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Don't forget the grommets(rubber washers) and also the bushing that fits between the charge bar and the hex head of your missing bolt.
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Old August 10, 2012, 07:14 AM   #4
jclayto
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Uh oh Steve, i don't have those either. What purpose do they serve, is it something I might be able to buy at the local hardware store? If it makes a difference this is an older pre-85 model with the metal parts. I also realized I don't have the wad finger guide but looking at some videos it does not look like most people use the wad guide?

I picked up the flat head screw yesterday and it fits well. The problem I am having now is that the old crimp is not being expanded out enough to easily allow a wad to slide in. I can get it if if I wiggle it in but its definitely not an easy straight in drop. If there were metallic reloading I would say that the shell needs more bell. Thoughts?
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Old August 10, 2012, 07:34 AM   #5
steve4102
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#8 for the grommets. I don't see the bushing behind the bolt, maybe this model doesn't have one.

http://www.mecreloaders.com/Order/60...5PartsList.asp

The bushing is #41 in this newer model.

http://www.mecreloaders.com/Order/60...5PartsList.asp
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Old August 10, 2012, 07:40 AM   #6
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Gotta have wad fingers.

#22 here.

http://www.mecreloaders.com/Order/60...5PartsList.asp
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Old August 11, 2012, 08:19 AM   #7
wild willy
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I have six Mec 600s from old to fairly new there is not any grommets or bushing in back of the charge bar screw. #41 is a lock washer.The grommets and or washers go between the shot and powder bottles and the bar .You will need a rubber one for the shot.Depending on what powder used you may or may not need the brass one.When you get the rubber one get some spares.You need the wad guide.Is your press before 1982
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Old August 11, 2012, 08:30 AM   #8
steve4102
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Quote:
I have six Mec 600s from old to fairly new there is not any grommets or bushing in back of the charge bar screw.
My mistake, you are correct. The bushing I thought was there is built into the back of the Pro Check.
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Old August 11, 2012, 02:51 PM   #9
Joe Rush
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Just curious, why didn't you buy an adjustable charge bar? There is no bushings to keep up with and you don't have to have more that one to change the shot load.
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Old August 11, 2012, 03:57 PM   #10
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Add the red PC plastic powder baffle to your list of things - it REALLY helps make the powder drops a lot more consistent, and you won't need the brass powder grommet.

BTW, the bushing chart is NEVER correct on what they say the drop will be - you will need a scale to verify - if you are looking to plat around developing several loads, the best way to go is the aforementioned Universal Charge bar - it will let you dial in EXACTLY the amount of powder and shot you want and some kinda-sorta somewhat in the area amount

There are several negative things about MEC reloaders - the bushings and how far off they are is right at the top.

If it doesn't have the auto primer feed - you might want to consider that, as it will let you increase your speed a lot
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Old August 13, 2012, 12:00 PM   #11
BigJimP
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powder bushings are easily altered ...as to how much they'll throw for a specific powder....

spin them in a lathe or drill press ....and lightly, with some emery cloth --- open them up a little / until you get what you want. Use a permanent marker - to remark them -- or a Dremel tool if you want...

You can tighten a bushing up as well....by using some clear nail polish ...let it dry inside the bushing / then use the emery cloth to tune it ....but personally, I just toss them out ( they're cheap ) ...and you can pick up all kinds of bushings from Mec, your local dealers or your local gunshows.

( I hate the universal charge bars.../at least the ones produced for MEC ).

I just keep the standard bars in 3/4oz, 7/8 oz, 1 oz, 1 1/8 oz around ) ....pick those up at gunshows, etc as well...). The Universal charge bars come loose ..and they aggravate me...so I just keep it simple.
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Old August 13, 2012, 03:30 PM   #12
crowbeaner
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+1 on oneounceload's post. The bushings are NEVER right on whatever the list says the charge should be, and I don't care how hard you cycle the shuttle bar. I have to check every one every time to get the charge I want. Good thing they aren't too expensive! I had an adjustable charge bar, but some shmuck stuck it in his pocket and walked off with it at a yard sale. Can't trust anyone these days.
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Old August 14, 2012, 08:44 PM   #13
jclayto
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Parts on order, thanks everyone! I will eventually pick up the adjustable bar but honestly this press was bought for one purpose - to make a very light recoil load for cowboy shooting. I heard from a few cowboy shooters that 1oz shot and a #25 with clays makes a nice light load so I just opted to buy those items.

Is there an adjustment to get more "bell" on the case during the deprime stage? It's not quite flaring enough to get a wad in easily.
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Old August 15, 2012, 10:43 AM   #14
snuffy
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Quote:
Is there an adjustment to get more "bell" on the case during the deprime stage? It's not quite flaring enough to get a wad in easily.
There should be no problem inserting a wad IF you have the wad fingers in the wad guide. They are made out of a tough plastic, made to push the mouth of the hull more open to prevent the wad from catching on the crimp. In the past, they were made of brass.
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Old August 15, 2012, 07:19 PM   #15
jclayto
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Thanks Snuffy. I was hoping that this was the case but the gentleman at Mec told me the wad fingers only served to center the wad and had nothing to do with opening the hull mouth. I'll report back once I get the parts but I should be good to go.

Jon
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Old August 16, 2012, 07:17 PM   #16
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IF your wad fingers are in good condition AND it is set to go into the hull when lowered, then the wad WILL go into hull with no issues
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